dwc43

Those are picks, or dentist picks if you like that name.

Thanks for the links guys. Hope I can do it justice and make it look as good as this one.

Another great looking truck.

Great looking truck. I had no idea they made the decals for this. I always wanted to build one. I just watched the movies again last week. Reason being, that I just bought a Revell metal Bandit T/A off of e models and I wanted to check it for accuracy. I'm going to try some sandpaper on a pencil eraser on the dash board before I paint it gold. I hope to get that circular polished looked to it like the orginal T/A has. Got any links for decals and kits? I'd love to have the set myself. If I could find the kits and decals I'd also like to do the Moving On KW and the K100 Aerodyne CEO from B.J and the Bear. Have no clue where to look for the kits or decals.

Reminds me of the Johny Cash song where he built that Caddy stealing one part at a time in his big lunch box .... lol!!!

Good pic. I can see your camera in the spare tire cover .... lol!!!

They all look great, but I noticed none of them have the correct rallye dash board in them. All of them have the std dash boards.

I have a separate storage building where I keep my Road Runner show car and we keep some of that stuff in there. Works pretty good too. Just never thought about using it indoors where I paint though. That's a good idea.

Thanks for the ideas. I forgot about warming the paint trick. I might give that a shot if I get to paint this weekend.

It's not hard at all to use the thread, it just does not give good results. When I did it I wrapped the thread and secured it in a set of medical style clamps. Anchor one clamp and hold the other one tight. Then move the model up and down the thread. The longer the thread the better cause you slide the model the full length of the thread and it spreads the heat over a longer distance so you have less thread breakage. In the end though, the results are not as good as using the very sharp edge of a micro chisel like I used.

What do you guys do about the humidity ?? It's been raining here for almost 5 or 6 weeks straight. I have this perfect semi gloss black paint that always works flawlessly, until it rains. It gets the ghosty white look to it. I need to paint some stuff and sure enough, it starts raining again today and probably will last through the weekend, again.

I heard the same thing, so I tried it once and never again. I was cutting the front clip from a 55 chevy to do a flip nose. It looked like ###### and took forever to do. AS the thread heats up, it will break over and over again. And it needs to be held tight. It does not corner as well as I thought it would either. I got me another kit recently. I took a micro chisel and used it to cut the front clip and trunk lid off. It did great and the panels match back up. Way better than the thread. I just used it's sharp corner dragging it along the original body lines.

I got mine at Hobby Lobby on sale for about 1.50 or 1.75. It was over 3 bucks before the sale price.

Thanks. I'll just have to do a little test with it first then. I just wanted a ball park idea so I wont waste a lot of it.

I've seen some heavy duty riding lawn mower belts that are green and the pulleys run on both sides of the belts on some of those.

Never thought of that. Here's a link to two sets I found on Harbor's site. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=67030 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...Itemnumber=3838

Thanks for the pic. I was searching here for built model pics though. So many build T's and other older cars like this one I figured it would have been done by someone on here. The one I built when I was a kid just has the decals over red plastic so it's not that great to look at. I'll have to see if I can find it. Maybe restore it somehow.

OK. If I do the paint thing, again, how thin? Water, more or less?

I was wondering how I was going to do that myself. I was looking at using a hole punch that you use on paper. That would work for big speedo's and tachs, but not for the little gauges.

PLEASE READ THE RULES CAREFULLY Rules 1. has to be a pickup 2. has to have a factory style bed 3. truck had to been produced after 1960 4. no 4cyl's 5. has to be finished in the dead line dead line December 31st at 12:00am central , so let me know what you guys think. It's the very first post on the first page guys.

Thanks guys. And I agree, it does look more in scale than the flocking that I have seen. Flocking looks too thick and bulky looking to me. I want to try this and see how it turns out. How thin should I get the glue? Like water or thicker or what? I know it's kind of hard to explain, but ball park it if you can and then I'll try so practice runs with it. But, like mentioned above, I don't want to waste it either.

I have some and wont to try it out to make a black carpet look. I read on here somewhere about using thinned down Elmer's glue. What do you thin it with? Paint thinner ? And what kind of ratio? 1:1 or what?? And how thin is thin ?

Anyone ever build a 32 Ford like ZZ Tops from the Afterburner and Eliminator Albums ?? I have one that I built when I was a kid that I'll have to dig out. I tried to search for pics of one on here, but the search function was worthless.

You need to find a kit with the old Poly Glass GY's for your kit.

Thanks. I might give it a try the next time I build a model race car.