PlasticWagens

Maybe I am not looking hard enough, but anyone have a good source for Goodyear and Hoosier tire stencils for spray applications? I have a situation that a dry and/or water transfer will not work and spraying is my only option. Might have to have some photoetched if I cannot find them. Thanks for any help.

The wheelie bars are a very important aspect of a slot drag car. On a typical 1/4 mile they will be touching the track for the majority of the run. Typically they are set up about a business card thickness from touching the track. With out them the car will de slot almost immediately upon launching. A few years ago we tried a class to replicate a 10.5 format without using the wheelie bars. while through creative gearing and motor setup you could get them down the track, ultimately the risk of ruining bodies (both yours and your opponents) was not worth it. Wheelie bar length is an important aspect as well.

You have not been to Disney lately, lines so long you can put your name on a waiting list and come back LOL. As stated a lot of this could be cleared up by siply stating delivery times, that way the consumer has the "option" to wait.

Rollercoaster ride may only take a couple minutes, but becomes a 2 hour wait to ride it when 1000 people show up for the ride. Though I have had the same experiences with Randy, in the end I am confident everyone gets their product. While I do not quite classify this necessarily with "bad customer service", a simple notification of wait time would be sufficient for me. No problem waiting for quality as I have plenty of boxes of garbage that has come right away. This man is not slow because his product is sub par, on the contrary he is overwhelmed because he is that good. I too though have resulted to waiting most the time for a show to find a vendor to get the products on the spot if at all possible.

Great stuff going on there!

Ford E 100 Van & Pickup Volkswagen Type III's (Squareback, Notchback, Fastback) and not a pull off the very incorrect diecasts. Plymouth Arrow Somebody PLEASE finish the 3-4 year teaser Fairmont we have seen. Rabbit Pickup Ford Ranger (Mini) Extended Cab Conversion Stock Bodied Chevy Luv

A new truck casting that I can finally get excited about. Love the look Pat

Really nice build Mitch.

No issues with a judge handling the model if that is what it takes to properly judge the car. If we go to a full points judging and the underside of a very nice model cannot be seen loses to a glue bomb that displays all judged areas is that the better way? Cars need to be viewed by whatever means necessary, to me it goes with the teritory. Unless it is a diarama or curbside I think it is necessary to handle to view all aspects of the modeling subject. You picked it up to bring it to the show, so it obviously can be handled. That being said, promoters could go over the guidelines to proper handling and contestants could also leave instructions as to fragile or loose pieces.

Zero issues on my end.

I use the end of my Dremel 115 bit like an end mill at a low speed and finish with sandpaper on a square piece of wood.

Those are WRP Halibrands W-06. Scroll down 1/2 way WRP Wheels

+1 on the Indoor Motorsports comment. TSS Hobbies in Michigan has a huge supply as well as Fast Eddies in Indiana.

Love those box stock builds! Nice work and welcome.

Loving the build, but I am wondering with every cut if the "ultra quick" build objective is still the game plan? LOL Keep it up!

Marc, Fabulous job and an outstanding overall look. Can you share more details on the interior with colors, sheen coats and techniques used?

Worst case scenario send me the parts and i will build the chassis and mount the body for you. I have parts if necessary as well.

Definately solid rail front to back. Do not solder the pin tube to the motor box. If you look closely I install brass collets on either side to limit the amount of body sway the car will have. Also I slot the back of them for easy body removal. Simply remove the front pins and slide the body and rear mount off as one. Also whenever possible locate your front body mounts infront of the front wheels. The car I used for the example is a full float body as this particular body is famous for getting a lot of air under it so it needs the additional float and it needs to be stiffened in a different way.

Wayne, How you have your WRP chassis setup/built currently is going to give you a lot of troubles. First off you chose a nice chassis for bracket racing that is farily easy to build and very consistant when built properly. Issues- 1) The main rails are also suppose to be your wheelie bars. You need to run the rails individually from the guide plate all the way back, not cut off at the motorbox (not with this chassis). 2) You have soldered the wheelie bar wheele gusset in front of the motorbox. The gusset will tie in the back of the wheelie bar rails and give you a spot to attach your wheelie bar wheels. 3) Your rear body mount needs to float and also needs to be located behind the wheels. How you currently have that tied in will have the car deslotting on the first pass and with that rare resin body you do not want that. Fixes- 1) De-solder the chassis and clean up the guide flag plate and motor box. 2) I am assuming that you are using this for bracket racing and running either a Pro Slot FX motor or Parma 501/502. Get stainless .072 tubing for your main rails or .069 piano wire. 3) Measure and cut your main rails. You want your wheelie bars just shy of 5 inches from the rear axle centerline. With that wheelbase you could do 4 3/4 inches, but personally just under inches from the rear axle centerline to the wheelie bar axle centerline is ideal. 4) The rearward tabs with the oval slots on the motorbox are intended for your rear body mount. The are sloted to provide the body to be able to float which is a key part of getting the cars down the track without hopping. How your current set up is will not allow the body to float and it has tied the two main rails together which can lead to catostrophic deslots around mid track. 5) A good rule of thumb for initial wheelie bar height settings is a business card thickness. Use your setup block and make sure the braids are installed when doing so. Remember all tracks have different braid depths so you will need to check / tune at your track before making that first pass. I have literally built over 200 of these chassis's and I really like them for bracket racing. I made a tutorial a couple years back on tips and how to's for these. I will find and revamp it and get it posted here this week. Hopefully thes quick tips help and the photo's clear up what I have expressed. Feel free to email me at matt@slotwagens.com should you need any further assistance, I will be happy to help.

What kit and or body did you use? Is that a piece of PVC pipe used for the tub?

Fantastic work and as said before, absolutely stunning interior!

Yes the new ones are all this color .

Really like it, but I say big twin turbo Toyota power is the only way.