sjordan2

In my research to buy one, I have looked at many replicas of this car and all have some representation of the nose louvers. I have only seen one original model without it, and I have never seen a replica without it. Just check Google images. There are a couple of metal replicas that have done everything perfectly, but you're talking $100,000 or more. The biggest issue is that in the fiberglass versions, like the Beck Spyder, the louvers usually are molded into the nose and are not opened. This is easily fixed.

The Beck Spyder is the most well-known one, though there are a couple of others.

VERY, VERY NICE. I'm kind of surprised, though, that there is no louver plate in the nose. A few years ago when I had full-time employment and was making some nice bucks, I looked into buying a Beck Spyder replica from Thunder Ranch, which had a not-too-awful price, under $30,000. The thing was, though I could get a weather kit with top and side curtains, there was no way to get heat or air. Vintage Air said that they couldn't rout air from the air-cooled Super Beetle engine into the interior and didn't do air-cooled cars at all. I joined a replica Spyder forum and asked them what they suggested for heat. The answer was, "a down-filled jacket." Not a good thing for chilling Tennessee winters and 100 degree summers, and this would have been a daily driver.

Absolutely. There's no such thing as a slip of the tongue when you're writing, and your last sentence is dead on. Interestingly, I ran into an issue with the censorship software once when my post on Spaz Stix chrome paint did the #### number on the first word - and rightly so in any other context. That got fixed when I submitted the issue to admin.

I'd like to know how he does his basic casting, molding, etc. I just visited his site, and it's clear to see that the Mercedes 300 SL Roadster has been taken from the Italeri/Revell 1/16 kit and the 300 SL Gullwing is from the 1/16 Minicraft/Entex/etc. kit. They offer 1:18 diecast models which he says are significantly less expensive than the others because they plate the metal of the existing model rather than making new molds every time.

I might just add that everyone who talks about Easy-Off oven cleaner recommends the yellow can (plus gloves and fume protection).

FOTOCUT oletcherfred@yahoo.com 315-662-3356 Fred Hultberg Box 120 Erieville, NY 13061 (Photo etching from your camera-ready art) Give him a call and discuss your project with him. He comes highly recommended by Stephane at scaledetails.com, who uses him to produce transkit PE parts for Pocher kits. I don't think he's all that expensive.

All this Fotki right click/left click PC stuff I don't understand, being on Mac. You don't have to resize anything that you upload onto Photobucket. The forum will do it for you automatically. • Just upload your photo from your computer to your free Photobucket account. • Once it's uploaded, just place your cursor on your uploaded image in the window and a series of fields will appear below, as you see here. • Click on the bottom IMG Code line and it will will say Copied. • After that, you just go to your post window and paste that link into it [hold down the command key and hit v on your keyboard]. At that point, you will just see the code letters, until you hit SAVE at the bottom of the post box. Then you're good to go. Here is this forum's tutorial, which is actually a bit more complicated than it needs to be: http://www.modelcars...showtopic=12248

You might want to check out the Herb Deeks wire wheels. This is on the 1/24 Merit/SMER Talbot Lago. Your model is the W154 Mercedes that was a Grand Prix racer in 1938 and was, indeed, raced at Indianapolis in 1946-47, but not with those kind of wheels. This car was almost always raced using typical wire wheels, BUT: The wheels you are showing are pretty close to correct for one car, but were run (in aluminum color) in the 1938 French Grand Prix car, which had wire outer parts with the slotted brake drums behind them (8 holes vs. your 10). This is the CMC diecast of that car, and I have never seen this kind of arrangement anywhere else.

A DVD of the amazing documentary, "Senna," which profiles the career of the late F! driver, Ayrton Senna. Saw it a couple of weeks ago in the theater; the film is about 50% in Portuguese (Senna being Brazilian) but the distributor sent a version without subtitles to the theater. This film is not officially available on DVD in the US yet, but I tracked one down on eBay. This one has garbled English subtitles that appear to have been translated by someone using an online translator - probably a pirated version - but it fills in a lot that I missed in the theater. This is an emotional and engrossing film about a unique person, with a real-life story line of passion, rivalries and redemption that would have made a good Hollywood movie (at one time, Antonio Banderas was slated to play Senna). It's playing in only a few US cities. Seek it out.

That sounds like a great idea. BMF at this scale would just dull down the details.

Subject: 1935 Mercedes grille. Problem: • I need to hit the grille mesh inside of the chrome radiator shell with a satin finish. • I need to keep the vertical center piece chrome, so it has to be masked off. This could involve using a piece of thread, wire, or human hair. That part does not stick out enough to be wiped off. What do you suggest as an adhesive that would hold the masking material, not be permanent and is easily removed? NOTE: On this particular Mercedes at 1/25, with a finer grille mesh than other models, it would not be realistic to use a wash for the grille.

Thanks, guys. I had the lid off and I'll put it on, then give it more time to work. This is a fresh bottle.

Using Purple Power, I'm stripping paint from a kit I got on eBay that has been partially painted. After 36 hours, most of the topcoat color has gone away, but there is a heavy layer of red paint or red primer underneath, which isn't going away very quickly. I need to get this down to the bare plastic. Should I switch from one stripping medium to another, or just wait longer? What do I need to do to take out the parts from a Purple Power bath and prepare them for another medium such as Dawn Power Dissolver? Do I need to clean the remaining paint residue from my first attempt, which is still sticky, and if so, how? Purple Power has worked great for me in stripping kit chrome, but this is a problem.

You might check here under the Plastic header. Lots of other useful textures, such as wood. Supposedly free, but you have to register. http://www.cgtextures.com/ PS: What kind of fiberglass do you want? The kind that comes in a finely woven roll, is handlaid with woven strips, or is chopped and shot?

You can do one or two line spaces (two is easier to read). Just hit RETURN after the copy line(s), before you paste the image code and after the image code.

Incredible detail and jaw-dropping craftsmanship. As someone who works mostly with 1/16 and 1/12 kits, I am constantly amazed at how you and our other colleagues can turn out work like this at such a small scale.

Superb issue, received in perfect condition. Great build journals, tutorials, reviews and commentary.

I've seen a few builds of this kit and it has never been done better. Wow.

I agree with the statements that normal physics would prevent a fully detailed plastic engine from actually running on fuel, but it sure would be cool to see someone build a 1/25 engine with moving parts like a 1/8 Pocher. In fact, it would be cool to see someone build a 1/25 model with all the different mechanical parts of a Pocher. (And make it work better.) I'm looking forward to it, and I hope I live long enough to see such a thing. Someone with the skills and tools of a fine watchmaker could possibly do it.

Bump for further comments pro or con.

One of the best metallic finishes I have ever seen on this forum. Outstanding work.

Well said, thank you, and I appreciate the fact that you quoted my original, deleted post to bring things back into perspective Perhaps the original subject could have been phrased better, as well as my response - I'll just say that I regret the cojones part, but you know how it goes when umbrage builds while composing a post. So, let's build, let's interact - not always in that order - and let's eat a lot less popcorn. But don't edit this place to death and end up with the drab pablum of the other major forum.

You might try this. I've seen others elsewhere but my memory fails me at the moment. http://www.rbmotion.com/shocks.html

That's why we have moderators. God rest their souls and may they find peace on earth.