sjordan2

We may have taken a slight detour on the subject, but anyone who wants to pitch in can still do so. Preferably, with an easy tip, not mentioned so far, that can make models better, which this thread is about.

Finally, an intelligent observation on this particular subject. Crafters need to start early, never mind the ready-made stuff.

No plastic manufacturer will do these, but maybe Pocher might. Talbot-Lago teardrop coupe Alfa 8C 2900B Mille Miglia The Alfa above can also be produced inthe following versions, among others.

I will never, ever chrome my Johnson rod. My insurance doesn't cover that.

After avoiding this topic because of lack of interest in the subject matter, I finally took a look and I'm very impressed. This whole thing is extremely clever. Your techniques, your descriptions and photos are very illuminating, and I'll keep following.

I say the same thing when I read some posts here.

I would suggest that the superdetail modelers are the most rabid of the "I build for me / I build for fun" guys. No reason to add so much unless it gives you personal satisfaction. (And don't take that as a slam against anybody who builds at any level of detail.) I think Brady Ward, a well-known professional builder of mostly Pocher models, expressed it well. He became a professional because of his love of the detail, and the challenges. Even though he actually builds for others, whatever he does for customers involves commitment and the reward of personal satisfaction: http://www.bradywardmodels.com/ "I never planned to build model cars for a living. After some training in art and design, I spent my spare time working on my own full size cars (decidedly non-classics), having more and more fun with the mechanical troubleshooting and rebuilding. At the same time, classic cars began to look more like art than old vehicles to me. Not having access to a full-size classic to lay my hands on, I built my first 1:8 scale model. Eventually my customers convinced me they wanted more models than I could produce on nights and weekends and pushed me into business full-time. Since then, almost every customer but one has ordered additional models after receiving their first. One has eleven, another sixteen and counting. So I am fortunate to make a living doing what most of my friends regard as "playing with toy cars". It is very fulfilling, using my hands to create cars that are both mechanically and aesthetically beautiful. There are drawbacks: I have many unproductive days, banging my head against a mechanical problem, or struggling to get into the frame of mind to polish paint for 10 hours. Because of this (and a constant backlog of orders) I cannot promise specific delivery dates. I will give my best guess when an order is placed, and will not require a deposit until I have actually started a model (or sometimes when a rare kit must be purchased). I willput my heart into every model, and won't deliver it until I know it is right."

I think Revell needs to repair the damage they did to their reputation in their original boxings (reissues of Renwal) by producing new 1/12 tooling of the abysmal Ferrari 275 GTB and Mercedes Gullwing.

I don't think you read the bulk of this thread. Go back and you'll see that Hobby Lobby has an overwhelming amount of products throughout the store that are useful to modelers, not necessarily in the kit section.

My idea was to look at both overlooked basics (such as you mentioned at the end of your post) plus what has turned out to be a wide range of perhaps overlooked opportunities to go to a higher level. As mentioned in post #103, "to compile a list of simple, illuminating things that CAN be done to build better models. Sort of an a la carte menu of opportunities, not a list of musts. As has already been mentioned, it's up to the individual modeler to determine how far to go with these suggestions. If that ends up being fun for modelers who are so inclined, so much the better. If not, nobody said you should bother with it.

I think you could add one or two brushstrokes of corrosion on the upper right part of the cylinder head.

Don't forget being able to take out other people or yourself.

As Harry and Dave Van mentioned, Hobby Lobby may not be the ultimate source for car modeling, but they carry a multitude of products that are useful for anyone into crafts, and truly for car modelers as well. Stuff you wouldn't look for or wouldn't be carried in a typical model shop (which would vary all over the place), such as wood veneers, mesh, art pens, fabric, flocking and embossing powder, all kinds of art and jewelry supplies and materials, etc etc etc. Too bad they aren't open on a convenient shopping day like Sunday, but the same deal goes for Chick-Fil-A, one of my favorite fast chicken joints.

Bingo. That's what I had in mind when I opened this thread. I thought it would be good to compile a list of simple, illuminating things that CAN be done to build better models. Sort of an a la carte menu of opportunities, not a list of musts. As has already been mentioned, it's up to the individual modeler to determine how far to go with these suggestions.

Lots of lovely stuff in the link you posted on the St. John's Concours. Especially a nice, BIG picture of Tom Mix's 812 Cord Phaeton (on my list of far-off projects). Is the color reproduced accurately, or is it a bit lighter or darker shade (using the front fenders as a base case)?

Okay, Harry, I give up. Who's your new avatar?

You've got all the major stuff done. Why can't you just put on the glass and chrome and mount it on the chassis, and call it a day?

Excellent in every detail, and great photos.

I've seen most if not all of the Gullwing plastic kits, and there are, indeed, next to none of them without issues. I haven't built the 1/25 AMT version, but it looks better overall than many, though lacking a certain amount of detail. The only Gullwing model of any kind that appears to have gotten just about everything right is the pricey 1/12 diecast from Premium Classixx, averaging about $350.

I know that many of us are quick to suggest that wheels should have valve stems. I've noticed that in many builds I've seen that the inside edges of window frames, such as vent windows, have rough edges that could benefit from a little sanding, and possibly some indication of felt window channels. I also think that some interior parts and molded-on firewall hoses etc. would look better with a little scoring around the separate parts before painting to "lift" them off of the surface a bit. Other thoughts?

This is extra-cool and ideal for a woody treatment. I would say, however – like so many models – it could benefit from some careful sanding of the edges on the insides of the window frames and chrome window pieces. They look a bit rough here.

The details are just spot-on. The engine finishes are perfect, and few modelers get the interior panels and screws right.

Those with a better knowledge of French are welcome to correct me, but here's my attempt at a translation from the French website: MONTAGE PAS À PAS : Les pages centrales de vos fascicules vous donnent des indications claires et précises, illustrées de photographies, pour monter facilement votre voiture pas à pas. Ce superbe modèle convient aussi bien aux modélistes confirmés qu’aux débutants. • BUILD STEP BY STEP: The middle pages of your installments give you clear and precise instructions, illustrated with photographs, to easily build your car step by step. This superb model is equally as suitable for experienced modelers as for beginners. As for price, this seems right in the ballpark with 1/8 Pocher kits (and may be better quality). But I'd let somebody else be the first to build it.

Great job. I really like the color combo.

Anything that isn't somewhat iconic will never be released in 1/12 or 1/8. But that doesn't mean we can't dream on. I think the Europeans would be more receptive to kits in these scales of 1/16 and larger, since older large-scale kits are being re-released by Revell of Germany.