sjordan2

Zimmer Golden Spirit. Requires wearing a hat with a 24" brim. White trenchcoat with an ermine collar is optional.

The networks have played and studied this over and over, interviewed the best experts, and still can't come to a conclusion. How can anyone on this small forum have an opinion worth listening to?

Once available in a megabucks 1/8 curbside kit.

One thing I would add to Art's excellent list is to use a very fine-point pen to add rubber seals around window frames, exterior and/or interior, but only when they're visible on the 1:1 car; depending on kit scale and practicality, it would be cool to do the same with felt window channels. Just remember, the idea of this thread is to propose – but not at all to demand – that there are all kinds of optional steps that can be done to come as close to a 1:1 car as possible, but not as a necessary thing. All of these observations come from studying the real cars to begin with.

Looks fabulous. Superb, really. I might mention that one of the most-often criticized aspects I've heard about these kits is the center mold seam on the tires. I've never seen a tip for how to conquer that on these kinds of racing slicks. Any ideas?

The Continental Mk II is an old Revell kit in 1/32 with a multipiece body. Check eBay.

Looks like an LM version. Beautiful car.

Thanks, Ace. That's why I post stuff like this, hoping it will encourage curious people to go ahead and build the car, and blow us all away based on the information. As I've mentioned on a couple of other threads here, if you find any of this information valuable, scroll to the bottom of a reference page and make a pdf, or download each shot individually to a folder or your desktop. I've had enough links go away to know how important that is.

Cool. Any interior or engine shots?

http://www.stationwagonfinder.com/2010/10/swedish-style-1972-volvo-p1800es/

Available in resin but not in styrene or wide release, the Volvo P1800 ES.

As mentioned earlier, the annual inflation rate is based on benchmarks related to a limited number of subjects, and does not take into account a wide array of products and services in a multitude of industries, particularly the unique market influences on specialized ones. The general published inflation rate does not go to everything across the board. Just ask anyone who lives on Social Security.

I might add that the reference links no longer exist as searchable at the original host site (Fantasy Junction) and it took me a while to find them. You may want to bookmark them or, preferably, download the images into folders. No telling when they'll completely go away. PS: You'll find over 70 more images here... http://www.ultimatecarpage.com/frame.php?file=search.php&keys=talbot+lago+t26c&method=0

Most corporations use accountants called actuaries, whose job is to study the market and past performance, then assess cost vs. probable return, and thus predict and set the effects of pricing in the marketplace. This is going to differ wildly between new tools, reissues, consumer interest and the state of market conditions among model manufacturers.

The 1/16 reissue was somewhat controversial in that the box art differed from the original by showing the car from a low angle where the roof can't be seen. As many of you may know, General Lee builds on the "other" forum have for years been prohibited from showing the roof flag in their posts.

General Lee roof decals are readily available, like the ones in the link. There are probably many other sources, and you can always make your own. http://www.spencer1984.com/sale-decals.php Or find or borrow the 1/16 version and print to scale. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NASCAR-DECALS-DUKES-OF-HAZZARD-DODGE-Charger-GENERAL-LEE-1-16-01-/380969082873?pt=Model_Kit_US&hash=item58b386dff9

Here's another article (in English) on building the SMER kit. http://www.arcauto.com/Gal01/001-100/gal006-Talbot-Dalton/00.shtm Here are some incredible reference pictures on T26 cars (the 4L5 is also known as the T26C. The Heller box seems to have a typo, corrected in the instructions, which should probably be 4.5L). http://www.fantasyjunction.com/cars/474-Talbot-Lago-T26 http://www.classicdriver.com/de/car/talbot-lago/t26/1949/162974 The Heller kit appears to have a very simple engine. Here are the trees: http://www.modellboard.net/index.php?topic=42440.0

I don't know if it can be found anymore (contact someone on the following threads), but there was a 1/12 Bugatti Atlantic curbside kit by Christian Gouel. http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/showthread.php?31390-Modelmakers-Christian-Gouel-Bugatti-Atlantic-T57Sc-build http://www.bugattibuilder.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=2694

What irked me today? The continuing plague of current political advertising by so many liars in every party that it's impossible to choose who to vote against.

It would be truly interesting to hear from the horse's mouth what the kit makers think. Some people here have a connection to Ed Sexton at Revell, but I don't hear much new in the world of cars. Others have told us what Moebius has in the pipeline, but they're a relatively small company. If these companies don't keep churning out products, new or reissued, a lot of people would be out of a job.

Yup. The hardtop roadster limousine version (the Caracciola car) uses many of the same parts and has the benefit of the Jo-Han team measuring the actual car. Nice wire wheels for 1/25 plastic, eh? (Though, as you probably know, only one 30s Mercedes came from the factory with chrome wires; any chrome ones you see would either have been special order or a later restoration.) Also, bear in mind that while the coupe had a wood dashboard, all the open roadsters had leather dashboards. While I don't have this particular kit, I have a significant amount of 500K reference, so feel free to ask me for information anytime. Meanwhile, you can plan ahead for your build by referring to the Pocher instructions for the 540K (actually with 500K engine and chassis details); they are quite similar. http://www.modelmotorcars.com/html/useful_info/manuals/MB_K91.pdf

Except for the notorious seam between the upper and lower body parts, which requires some special skill and reference to fix. It's a big deal. Otherwise, there's only a small bit of "accurizing" to do, such as thinning out the surrounds of the plexi headlight covers and upgrading the interior. If you want to open the hatch or the rear swing-out windows, that's up to you. Harry did an awesome job on the windows.

Take a look at AzkoNobel. They do the chrome paints for exotic and F1 cars.

Killer. What paint did you use?

Real and not retouched.