Chillyb1

Maybe everyone already does this sort of thing, but I thought I'd share anyway just in case.... I normally use Alclad chrome to create reflective and realistic headlight that is covered with a clear lens. But in this case I thought I might try something else: BMF! You'll need common modelers' tools that you probably already have. A drafting template with circles is also a good thing to have on hand. First, I jammed a piece of masking tape in the headlight bucket (using the eraser end of a pencil) just to get a good idea of how large a diameter I would need. You don't need to be particularly precise here; I just used a fine-tip marker to gauge the rim of the headlight. That done, you cut out a circle of BMF of the appropriate diameter. Cut a radius from the center of the circle so that the foil can conform to a conical shape. (Yes, I know that a radius, by definition, starts at the center of a circle. Don't be so pedantic!) Insert into the headlight bucket. This takes some care, but not a whole lot; the BMF is pretty easy to work into position and will help you along. Use the pencil eraser, or whatever you prefer as a tool, to get the BMF stuck in place. Insert your headlight lens and enjoy the fruits of your labors.

Wowsie-doodle-dandy, that's just too cool for words. The only thing I'd change is nothing. Like Dale, I'm not really a fan of rat rods or big trucks, but I love builds like this

Both replies pretty much cover it. I use Tamiya masking tape to make the template because it is super thin, but I just stick it to the carbon fiber decal sheet rather than taking the extra step Jeff mentioned. I apply the tape to the back of the decal sheet though I've also applied it to the front without any decal damage. Most templated parts to be covered are the same shape both upside down and rightside up (if you get what I'm saying); and those parts that are unidirectional are usually paired with one thing on the left and one on the right, therefore, you can still apply the template tape to the back of the decal sheet. (I am wondering whether or not that makes any sense to anyone but me.) My preferred cf decals are from Scale Motorsport and from KA Models, Both can stand up to common decal setting solutions (SMS even recommends Micro-Sol and Micro-Set). I've found these two brands to have excellent decals that are plenty strong but flexible enough to conform to most shapes. The use of a hair dryer, especially for large areas that are mostly flat, is absolutely crucial. Well, you can get away with decent application without one, but it makes a huge beneficial difference. Make sure you are very precise with your templates. You don't want decal going over edges in most applications because that will cause the decal to want to bend in ways you don't want them to.

I love this kit. I've built it before and will build it again. I used the Studio 27 photoetch set and about a square meter's worth of carbon fiber decals from Scale Motorsport and KA Models.

That is super cool. I hope you'll be able to finish it. Way too much work for me, which is why I love seeing builds like this from other modelers.

And that's what I was doing while you were typing this post. I think I captured the model in a better light (literally and figuratively). I was better able to get an accurate sense of the color and reveal some details.

This thing has proved to be impossible to photograph satisfactorily. Tamiya kit and Tamiya TS-40 Metallic Black paint. Some photoetch here and there and tons of carbon fiber decals, both from the kit and aftermarket. I'm not really happy with it; fortunately I have a few more in the stash and some photoetch sets too.

I'm going to disagree with everyone saying you shouldn't use this stuff. I love it. It is an excellent adhesive that is easy to use, sets reasonably quickly, and makes a strong but slightly flexible bond.

This is number one on my wish list for 1/24 scale kits. I dream of Tamiya offering one, but I'm not holding my breath.

EDIT: Sorry, I didn't explain that it is indeed two pictures spliced together because I couldn't get a picture of the thing in one frame.

I love that diorama. What a cool little garage.

That Unimog is one of the coolest things I've ever seen. I didn't know they made that at all, now I've got to add it to the wish list.

Greg, that Toyota Hiace Quick Delivery is just about my favorite kit. I can't explain why I'm so attracted to it. Have you started it? Any plans?

Great color choices. I think some panel-line accents would really enhance the overall look.

In my experience, that stuff is the worst primer on the face of the Earth! I was not aware that there were three varieties, and maybe the super fine is better. I bought several cans of lacquer white primer (not all at once but serially because they were cheap and I wanted them to work) and they were uniformly terrible. They came out unevenly and heavily and in cottage-cheese consistency. Awful BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH. I started a thread either here or on Scale Auto's forum about it and many a modeler chimed in with similar tales, including Bob Downie whose experience and expertise I trust. Good luck with that stuff.

I was hoping you guys would post pictures of these kits. I'm fascinated by such subjects. Thanks.

Jonathan and James: Those Subaru Sambars are awesome! I didn't even know those existed.

I was trying to correct a slight warp in this BMW hood; as you can see, it fit perfectly after my correction:

Oh, all right, it was I. That's right, the guessing game is over. I'm the super-nice person who sent the thing to the guy. So, if you all want to flood me with gifts and adulation and all the rest, please feel free. Cash accepted.

This thing is near completion and I took a couple of photos trying out a new photobooth. I'm pleased with how things are coming together; it's an amazing kit so it is difficult to screw it up too much. I've used about a dozen different carbon fiber decals, mostly for the fun of it. Should be done with it in the next few days.

There have been some excellent recent entries into this field. I may just have to cook up another build....

Everybody's a critic! Or a producer. But you also need to watch the fact that you are playing Silverchair! Just kidding, sort of. As long as you like it. Where is that superheavy bass sound coming from when you are playing barre chords?

I don't know about all the colors and I stopped using enamels several years ago, but there are definitely some paints in the Model Master line that are vast improvements over the regular line. I'm thinking in particular of a couple of the gloss blacks (Classic Black, Black Chrome Trim) a some others that I know from my experience were just better paints.

Gravity feed is going to be better for low pressure needed with Alclad chrome and polished aluminum. However, I find that using a color cup with my Paasche VL functions much like gravity feed, that is, very little pressure is needed. I don't know whether or not you will find that helpful. It might be if your only concern is gravity vs. suction feed; with most paints at usual psi that difference matters little.

Almost exclusively.