Chillyb1

I love this car and this kit. Don't forget that you have to paint the taillights with the body color because they come on the clear parts tree. It is a pain to mask and paint but it has to be done.

You only need the base coat for chrome and polished aluminum. But anyway, I agree with everyone else. Always apply Alclad paints with an airbrush.

Use the Tamiya VW Beetle. It is a gorgeous kit and everything falls into place. Plus it looks better than any other available Beetle. Or, if she's really young, there's a Revell BMW snap kit.

Bien sur que oui. Tout le monde aux Etats-Unis parle francais. Je blague. J'ai habite a Paris deux ans et donc je parle francais mais je fais encore beaucoup d'erreurs en grammaire et orthographe.

Incroyable! C'est mon fourgon prefere. I hope you'll be building it and showing lots of photos.

I'm always pleased to see stuff like this. I have absolutely no interest in ever building such a thing but I'm glad to know it's out there.

Just astonishing.

Now there's something you don't see everyday.

That is spectacular. I'm currently working on yet another of Hasegawa's excellent 250TR kit and, though I recognize its limits, it meets my needs. I would be a lot of fun to be able to assemble one of those CMC versions. Very cool.

I've found that paints that describe themselves as "acrylic enamel" are very hot and not suitable for hobby purposes. In my experience they eat plastic so I've learned simply to avoid them. You can try sanding it smooth, but that's going to take a lot of time and hard work. Good luck with it.

The 2003 Calsonic version.

Here are a couple of pictures:

Heat shrink tubing is just about the best looking. And it can be shrunk in place if you are very, very, very careful (and don't ask how I know that). What I usually do rather than split the stuff to put it around the cage bars is cut the roll cage in an inconspicuous spot that will be hidden by the "padding" and then slip it carefully into place. Does that description make any sense?

I really like these cars and the kit is a delight. I happened upon it in a hobby shop while visiting my brother in Ohio not long after I started building models as an adult.

I like it. I've built a couple of Tamiya's 956s but not the Revell. Good choice for a twenty-four hour build, too. I'm guessing that you added the valve stems, right?

That is indeed a very cool little dio. I love this car and this kit. I've already built it several times and have one currently in the works. The "morning frost" look is particularly effective.

This is puzzling. I've always preferred the Alclad base and have never had a problem with it not drying. I have found that Tamiya TS-14 works really well as a base coat for Alclad chrome and polished aluminum, if that is a possible alternative for you.

All right, Anne, don't take this the wrong way because it is probably just the jealousy talking, but I don't think I like you very much! Is this just your Dobro, Gretsch, and Fender room? I hesitate to ask about the Gibson, Guild, and Martin chamber. I recently relocated to Portland, Oregon, and brought only my stalwart 1968 Gibson J-50 with me. It is difficult to adjust to having just the one to play. Anyway, I reiterate my dislike for you!

Wait, wait, wait...back the truck up. You got what? Details or photos of the guitar and amp, please. My brother had a 360/12 (stolen ages ago) that was a great player and running through a Bassman sounded fantastic. Though I prefer my Tele through the tweed Tremolux!

Uh, very carefully? I sell on eBay everything I build and so have some experience in packing and shipping models. First things first, get yourself some polyester fiberfill (available widely at the usual big stores and many hobby and craft shops): it is the very best thing for shipping models because its shock-absorption properties are unmatched by anything else. I used to build a little shipping crate for each model out of cardboard and foam padding, as in these examples: This method ensures that nothing will touch the model on its journey to its new destination. Lately, though, I have dispensed with the crate and just put the car in a one-gallon sealable freezer bag and then set that in a fluffy bed of fiberfill. This is a much simpler method and I've not heard any complaints from buyers. All the models I've shipped this way have arrived safe and sound without any damage. I always use a brand-new box of this size: http://duckbrand.com/products/mailing-moving-storage/boxes-mailing-tubes/kraft-boxes And I always test the packaging before I seal the box. Fill it with the model and fiberfill and the move it from side to side, upside down, and so forth to detect any movement of the model within. When you are satisfied that you have enough fiberfill in the box to keep the model in place, seal it up and send it on its way. Good luck.

Wow, what a wildly imaginative project. Very, very cool.

I don't like the style but I love that car and that kit. There is a lot to like in your sharp, clean build. I'm especially impressed with the engine bay. I couldn't get the air cleaner to fit correctly when I last built it. And I love the plug wires and boots; I don't think mine looked that realistic. Nice job.

Lead us not into frustration....But deliver us from enamel. The problem of paint buildup can be avoided in at least two ways: 1) Use Alclad's basecoat, which is thinner than...well, thinner than something really, really thin, and 2) use Tamiya's TS-14 gloss black.

These are all done with Alcad: