Chillyb1

Is it missing a side rearview mirror? I'm glad to hear that the engineering and parts fit are so good. I've see a few of these built and I still wonder at how on earth anybody would have the patience to build and decal one. They are such sharp cars I may have to get one of these kits.

Tamiya kit, some Studio 27 photoetch, some light weathering. More here if you are interested: http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v230/ChillyB1/Tamiya%20Peugeot%20206%202002/

Please, please tell me you have enough focus and energy to get this one finished. I've wanted to do or see this done for a long time. Love the car and the race, so....get crackin' NOW! I'll be watching you folks but I won't be participating because I don't let projects languish (that sound you hear is me using my third arm to pat myself on the back!).

One cool truck! I really want to start building some pickups of this vintage.

That is one very attractive model. I love the color. Did you use a photoetch detail set? Uh, and is that vent window open in the wrong direction?

Here are a couple pictures of what's in the back of the car. It is supposed to be a refueling system:

Here are some more pictures with better daylight: Cranky, I'll try to describe my procedures in a subsequent post.

Inspired by Dr. Cranky's recent Area 51 build, I decided to try my hand at that sort of thing. I figured that if a talentless hack like Virgil can do it, then so can I. I chose this car because it seemed well suited to this treatment, and because I have several in the stash so no great loss if I ruin it in the process. I used a lot of techniques for distressing vehicles that I've learned not only from Dr. Cranky, but also from a whole host of modelers. I got a new Dremel Stylus recently and used it for most of the grinding. I painted the bare plastic with Testors aluminum metalizer straight from the can and used that as the base coat. I also used the metalizer sealer for the first time and it works perfectly for this kind application. I mixed several different shades of rust using Tamiya lacquers and sprayed those here and there, more or less willy nilly. I mixed the light blue also using Tamiya lacquers and shot it all over to suit my taste. I also used a bunch of Bragdon Enterprises's weathering powders. I did some scraping and sanding, then recoated with the light blue, sealing each stage with dullcote from Testors. I made a refueling system because I figured the driver would need to go very long distances between fill-ups. The barrels are from a 1/35th scale Tamiya military model. I painted them with metalizer, then the color (adding some kosher salt for the chipping effect), and then shot them with flat white to make the paint look sun-faded; they also got some rust here and there and some fuel drips. The hose is made of solder and wrapped around VW wheels. I can't remember what else I've done, so ask questions if you want to. Notice the wires in the dash where the radio used to be, and the whole where the speedometer was. Oh, I also made a roll of duct tape that sits on the passenger seat, and which tape was used to repair tears in the seat upholstery. There is also a little pine tree air freshener inside, but I don't think that shows up in the photos. Also, one of the wiper blades came off and the wiper stalk has scratched the windshield. More photos can be seen here: http://smg.photobuck...%20VW%20Beetle/

I could be wrong, but this sounds like a very bad idea. I certainly wouldn't shoot such a concoction through my airbrush. I guess I think differently from you; I decided it was worth the money to buy the fabric gray, spray it directly from the can, then paint over it with whatever color I wish. If you try your method and you like the results, and if it doesn't cause airbrush problems, let us know.

I recently received this handy little thing in the mail. I like building models that feature lots of decals but I've always been peeved by the inadequacy of whatever conveyances I've tried to use to wet the decals, as well as holding the decals while sliding them off the backing and into place on the model. I ran across this decal tray quite by accident and bought it from an eBay vendor (Phil's Hobby Shop) for a grand total of about $7, shipping included. It looks like just the right answer to my decal-related problems. I realize that the inveterate cheapskates and the I've-done-it-this-way-all-my-life-and-I-ain't-a-changin'-now types among us modelers will have no interest in this sort of modeler's aid; however, some of you may want to give it a shot. These are photos I snagged from cyberspace, and they'll give you a fairly clear idea of what I'm talking about:

Get the pistol-grip Dremel Stylus. I recently had to replace my useless MiniMite and chose to go with the Stylus on the recommendation of Virgil "Dr. Cranky" Suarez and Bob "Zoom Zoom" Downie. It is a fantastic tool. I've only had it about for about two weeks now but I keep finding things to do with it. The Stylus is, without hyperbole, about sixty-two billion times better than the MiniMite.

Yup, that's cool, Daddy-O! So obvious, yet so unexpected. Keep up the Hornet madness, you guys.

Well, I suggest you change your plans. Lacquers tend to be incompatible with enamels. It may be the case that Testors' lacquers work just as well over Testors' enamels. I wouldn't be willing to bet on that, though. If you are going to use lacquer for the color coats, then you might should get some different primer. While I prefer Tamiya, you can find primers that many modelers swear by at your local auto parts stores. Plasti-Kote and Dupli-Color are quite popular and can handle lacquers with no problem. Personally, I can't stand Testors' primers and will never, ever use them again so long as I'm building models.

It is difficult to find words to express my admiration for your work on this kit! It is just a delight to look at.

This is too much fun. Looking at the pictures inspires me to go to the stash, bust out a kit, and start Crankyfying it. Don't know if I will, but....

This the only Firebird that I like. Love that engine bay! What did you do around the air filter? Is that just gray paint? Did you have any problem with how the rear fascia fit? I've noticed that on a lot of builds it sticks out on the driver's side because the piece is molded unevenly. I'm currently working on this same kit and had to shave a lot of plastic before that piece fit properly. And that's an absolutely beautiful color on that car!

I don't think this is a case where one is better than the other; they are decidedly different. Alclad's chrome and polished aluminum have no equivalent in the Testors/Model Master line of metalizers. There are a bunch of other finishes in the Alclad line that are different from the Testors offerings. Several of the Testors metalizers are available in spray cans and, as mentioned, they can be sealed with Testors metalizer sealer or by the gloss/dull/semi-gloss clear of your choice. I have all the Testors metalizers and use them to create varieties of metallic finishes, usually based on my own imagination rather than on reference photos, because that variety of finishes appeals to the overall effect I'm looking for. I will at some future point acquire more of the Alclad paints, but I'm not in any desperate hurry to do so. I do think their chrome and polished aluminum, however, are indispensable to the scale automobile modeler. If you are just trying the stuff out, why not get a can of one of the Testors metalizers and shoot it onto some plastic? Then you can expand your range afterward if you like it. Just before posting this I was planning how to shoot a model with aluminum buffing metalizer so that would be the base color, much of which would be exposed on the final model. I'll post a photo when I can so you can see what I'm talking about.

That's the stupidest question I've ever read! Just kidding, of course. Do you have the metalizer paints or regular old Testors enamel? The metalizers really make the parts look like they are made of metal. And for polished aluminum you can do no better than Alclad.

Well, Alclad II chrome is amazing stuff. In my experience, Alclad's own black base coat is the best paint to use under the chrome. If you don't have their base black, then Testors/Model Master gloss black enamel is also very good. i've never had good luck using any color other than black. Alclad II chrome is not particularly difficult to use, but it does take a little practice because you have to shoot it at very low pressure in very few, very light coats over the base black.

You still working on this one?

Good luck with this project, Danny. I can't wait to see your progress. Should be a really cool build.

Glad you like it. I think it is a really beautifully designed car. Simple, plain, elegant, and attractive. I've got another one of these kits and will probably end up with more of them just because I love the look.

I can't believe this thread has gotten this far and nobody has yet pointed out the pronoun-antecedent disagreement in the original post.

Rob, I've seen the Jantrix name around here and the Scale Auto forum for so long I just assumed you got into an airbrush long ago. After I got back into modeling a few years ago, I experienced an astonishing moment of revelation when I got my first airbrush. I think it is the single greatest tool for the scale modeler. Anyway.... Enamels - I gave up entirely on enamels because...,well for no real good reason. I got tired of drying time, which can be considerably shortened by thinning them with lacquer thinner and shooting them through an airbrush. Mostly I got to liking lacquers and acrylics more. Acrylics - The only acrylics I have experience with are Tamiya's. I recently got some Folk Art to play with but my experience is so far negligible. Acrylics take a lot of coats to provide good coverage. I use them only for interiors and other not-so-visible parts. Easy to mix and none of that toxic odor you get with lacquers or enamels. I'd never think of using them on a body, though. Lacquers - My favorite, but, Mr. Humidity, they are highly susceptible to blushing due to ambient moisture. I've used many different kinds of lacquers, most of which are commonly available. Plasti-kote used to have a wide variety available in 1-ounce bottles that are convenient and very easy to use; however, I can't find them anymore (fortunately, I hoarded about fifty bottles!). I'm less excited by, but have used, both Plasti-kote and Dupli-color automotive lacquers in cans, which are easily found in auto parts places. These are incredibly malodorous, but come is a fantastic array of colors. They are VERY, VERY sensitive to humidity, less so if shot through an airbrush. My absolute all-time favorite lacquers are from Tamiya. Very forgiving, easy to decant for airbrush, quick drying, mixable, and NOT AS SENSITIVE TO HUMIDITY as other lacquers. I use these almost exclusively for all my car model painting needs. Acrylic Enamels Acrylic Lacquers - What I've found with both of these is that they are incredibly aggressive on plastic. I try to stay away from them. I hope some of that is helpful. As mentioned above, I highly recommend Tamiya's spray can lacquers, which are much less susceptible to humidity-related problems that other lacquers I've used.

This the best place I've found: http://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Paint_and_Construction/browse.php?s=3&t=1&u=0&pg=1&ppp=24&sb=stocknumber&so=a&e=0&man=TAM