MoparWoman Jamie

Davin, don't let the other people on here get you down or get to you at all bro. They tried that stuff with me as well if you all remember but guess what I'm still here. You see to me the harder people tried to get me to leave the more I like to stay around LOL. The way I see it Davin is like this, just as long as you don't do anything wrong then they can't really do anything. The last few months I been busy with other life things around me. My cousin has my camera right now, So I can't really take any photos of the projects I been working on. Looking at your build here man, I like what I see alot, you are really putting alot of effort into your project man and also trying out like you said new things to see what you can do. The idea about the grill I love, and I been doing the same thing kinda with a project of my own but not with PE stuff though. The show used 300 chargers for General's, 17 servied the show, then in the last 8 to 10 years afew more of the real General's chargers has infact surface THAT was not part of that 17 General Lee deal at all back in the early 1990's. They are now around 22 Real General's that made it. The color of the cars is not just one orange color at all like some may think. They had around 4 different shops through out the series that infact built the General's for on the Dukes back in the day. Each shop didn't use the same color orange. Matter of fact they used what ever orange they had on hand to paint the cars and at times they even mix oranges together to paint a charger to turn it into a General Lee. The interior colors also range from factory sattle tan all the way down to buckskin tan to the light pal tan (cream color tan). The cars didn't have no black interior at all, the what you thought you seen was black interior was infact dark sattle tan but in the shadows it would appear to be black though and this lead alot of people to think the General's had black interior when it didn't. They change the interior colors from the dark stuff because of the camera lightin because it wouldn't reflect off the dark interior to well like it did of the light color interior. Also, the General's on the show often had leaf spring helper springs mounted on the leafs. The General's cb on the show also change through the series also in some episodes, the General had 3 different types of cb antennas and also afew different cb units as well they used in and on him. The motor sizes was also 3 different ones as well, the 318 they infact did use in most of the General's for driving scenes, the 383 and 440 for the small and also for the huge jumps mostly. On the two part episode COT of the Dukes, at the end when the boys are in the General Lee and are getting ready to make the 32 park car jump, watch the wind sheild very close as they start out for the run up to the ramp (Al Wytt JR did the jump 2 times by the way) as they cut back and 4th, watch the wind sheild, you will see a roll bar bar in some of the shots and also tan over spray paint on the wind sheild from where the guys sprayed the dash down with the tan spray and hit the window with it. In that show you can really get an idea on what color was used as the sun light in the shot hits it very well and shows the color shade of it. The car that leaves the ramp has it's nose down but (1st take on the jump) when they cut to the landing area the car now has his nose up and tail end downwards. Al Wytt JR did the jump 2 times, he miss the first time and hit the last car at the end of the pile (the white one and took it's roof off) the 2nd tale on the jump the general had his nose upwards when he landed and on film almost clips the last car with his tail end LOL. So you see you all, all the General's on the show was not all the same at all, heck even the paint schemes wasn't all the same, they had different sizes of flags and 01's and General Lee text also on the cars used through out the series. The colors of the blue in the flag was different shades at times, the sizes of the white border and the stars was different sizes at times as well, the General Lee text was bigger in the GA episodes and then change sizes when they went back to CA and the back there the graphics colors and sizes changed through the series. You can't nit pick because if you do you are really nit picking 300 chargers at the same time on all there details that one might have had where as the other didn't have and believe me their was some cars that had stuff that the other General didn't have. So in a way Davin's model here could infact be being built correct after all because none of the real cars had a correct way either.

BTW, this is what the real Ghost of General Lee looked like on the series in the episode. The orange glow was edited in later to make the car look like it was glowing orange. Notice the car had sail trim? the model car doesn't have this item at all. Plus the windows are fog over. The real Ghost had a chestnut color interior also.

Here is one I'm working on for a friend of mine http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1842707511715.221470.1361401210&l=e7e3094894 I must have gotten a bad kit because I could hardly get mine to glow even in sun light.

well seeing on how others are posting their youtube channel handle, I'll trow mine in as well moparlover80 for anyone that is interested.

Not if you know how to do it, keep the paper afew mm's away from the area that is getting repaired. Leave the spray fade the side edges on the inside of the paper area (hench why you leave a afew mm's between the model and the paper for). If nothing else, just tape off the area, put something over the whole model but for the damage piece area. if it's a fender, tape the door line seam, then run tape along the edge of the fender all the way to the front and down the front edge. Then tape what ever you put over the whole model to cover it from getting hit by the over spray down to that tape.

That ship, what or which one is that? I built one before of 73, and I think the company was a forn one. The kit itself was not to good and things didn't like up to each other to well.

All I'm going to say here is I have even worked with dull blades as well in tight areas, and out in the open areas. I yet to have a problem like you are talking about even with a dull blade . And just so you and the others know, I have not use lamp oil yet on the blade to help it out.. all I used here and there was again Prep-All to get the adhesive off of the blade and then I was back to work again at the foiling. When cutting through foil, you always have to take your time and go very slow and follow the line you want. If you get in a hurry you will get sloppy more then likley and run off track of that line. LOL BTW, I like your aircraft models man.

Wait a minute there my friend. I foil my builds all the time and I'm still running on the same blade from last summer yet and we are now in Spring time of the next year. I have not have to sharpen it or any thing. I have no idea why model builders say it will dull the blade when for me it hasn't yet. Also note, if you get adhesive on the blade, use some prep all and BE CAREFUL very careful and wipe the knife black off with a paper towl with "prep-all" on it. It will clean the blade off very well on a few passes with the paper towl with the prep-all on.

If your talking about the Testors decal one, skip it. There is not really nothing in that kit. It's only a cd with maybe afew tiny tiny things you can do and that is about it, you have to buy another program to really make custom decals with.

Yea i know the issue very well, working on one project and the interior is just that semi gloss black. I tried the clean semi gloss stuff and had no luck with it. Went back to my local hobby shop and found the jar version. Good stuff. I hardly use Testors stuff myself though. I mostly use other brands. LOL

Hi you all, I know it's been awhile. For anyone that was following the build in the other area, I just wanted to let ya know I just updated that thread in case you was following it before. I'll bump this thread up here and there from time to time, but not all the time though just so you all know. Thank you

Man, when working with chrome painting on a model, does it bring back memories. Brandon, I know how you feel young whipper snaper, I loose to be in the same boat as you are at one time. Yea even I loose to paint the trim on with silver and chrome paint that would look silver anyways. Then one day I thought why not try some bare metal foil for once to see how that stuff was. Well I started out by using aluminum tape, the duct kind. Like it alot it wasn't silver paint but it was different though.. the more I used that stuff the more I liked it. well after along time using it. and Hearing people on these forums talk about bare metal foil I decided I would give that a try just to see how it worked, by this time my local shop in town had been in for like a year and had the stuff in as well so I pick up a sheet for 6.00 and tried it. To me, now this is my own personal opinion so you all know. It was tacky enough for my likings (I might have gotten a bad sheet or something I don't know) but the sheet I bought wasn't tack to much and the foil would come right back off and just didn't look right either. To me it looked to much like chrome paper. I wanted chrome and something that really had the adchive to back that could really stick. So I started to look around for something else, I went to stores looking for something that was chrome like and didn't look like paper. It was then it dawn on me, the only way for me to find what I was looking for was for me to probably make it somehow (LOL). You see I was like you, I was trying to save money also even back then on things, and for a 6x8 or close to that for 6.00 you could only do afew models with that size and then you was out and needed more you would have to spend another 6.00 for another sheet. I didn't like the model car bare metal foil looks at all either. So that was when I really started to thinking at what to do to get more for less you can say and something that looked good as well and be real metal too yet you could cut through and use as bare metal foil on a model. That was when I started doing this http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=34699 . Yep, making my own bare metal foil (LOL). I spend maybe a buck for the roll of foil, around three bucks for the elmers spray glue from the dollar general store ($4.00 and something total) and this way you enough foil, you have two choices of chrome or dull chrome as the foil has a dull side and a bright side to it. so instead of paying say 12.00 for two small sheets of both dull and bright, you can make your own for for a friction of that price and planty enough of bare metal foil for along time LOL. seeing on how you don't have much funds, maybe this route might be the way to go man for you. I know I like the homemade kind way better then the real bare metal foil out there. But thats just my own personal opinion though. each of us model builders has own ways of doing things and in different ways also (LOL).

Smooth-On

I am also working with this kit but the kit I am working on is the Dukes Ghost of General Lee kit though that just recent came out this year. They couldn't get this kit correct either not even with the glow part either. Unless I got a defected kit. This kit you are building, you will have to add drip rail molding, and also door trim and rear quarter trim as well, then scribe tail light trim out and then also tail end extenions as well. You will also have to make do some trimming for the rear bumper to fit right to the tail end. Then comes the front end . You might have to e do some trimming there as well depending on mold they used for your shell. But one down side, the fenders are made with the '68 and '69 bumper indents and to a '70 part you will have to either fill those areas in (I would do this) or shave the fenders back alittle (which I wouldn't do). But I will say this, you can turn this kit into a good looking build if you know how to do certain things right yourself though on it. Like they say, if you get a lemon then make lemon aid To what I seen of your build so far, I like how you are going at it and doing it. Keep up the good work.

The real Ghost of General Lee car was in fact white not orange, they added in the glow effect in the filming editing. So if you want a correct looking Ghost of General Lee model, you will have to go with a white car.

I seen DR1 and when I heard about DR2 I thought it would be lame, but after watching it afew nights ago. I have to say I like it and I like the story line also as that was one of the things I wondered about in DR1 was how did the game come about, you know the origins of the game. In DR2 they showed it and also interducted Frankinstine and who he originally was before what happen in D1. Plus they also showed how they got the cars in DR2 which I was wondering about in D1. But what I find strange is that the Mustang. Carl used mustangs two times in DR2.

You got my prayers man.

Get some foam board, the kind that is like poster board. Strip the paper sides off. Get some modeling clay. a hot glue gun and some hot glue sticks, build your mold box alittle taller. Take the modeling clay, fill the bottom of the mold box up oh say 1inch with the modeling clay. Make sure you pack the clay into the bottom of the mold box. Now take and lay your part flat ways onto the clay and firmly press it down into the clay to your likings. Now take and use a pencil or something to make afew hole indents in the modeling clay. Now take and have some release agent on hand and spray the mold box down good on the inside. Pour your casting compound in, leave set over night. Now here is where it can kinda get tricky at, just remove the bottom of the mold box real easy, pick out all the modeling clay "without moving your part" and after you have the modeling clay all removed, take and use the mold release agent again by giving that side a good spraying. Then mix up some casting compound and pour. Wait at least 24 hours and then check, if good start demolding easy. Now when pulling the two half's apart, they might at first seem like they are one but alittle presure of pulling easy they will come apart. The hole indents you make before will act as arms for when you place the two half's of the cast togother as they will line up correctly without any guess work. I hope this info might be of help to you.

That is all part of the world of model building man, you don't just assume the model will fall right togother do you? (LOL) You have to test fit the parts as you go along. Parts will always need a shaving here or there to get them to fit right.. If you think your getting upset now with what you are doing and how the kits doesn't want to fit togother, wait till you try to move on with the model building process of projects and open things up. The main key is to always test fit each part togother before gluing or even painting to see if there is or will be any issue with the two parts or areas. I agree with the other member and what they said that this is all part of the learning curve for model building. But remember this, just because a kit comes from a factory, doesn't mean it will fit togother without any issues though. Also remember this, if your building a model and everything is going good and you haven't had any issues yet with it.. well you probably know the rest of it.

I say real due to the tires.

That is one reason why I don't use Testors glue for. Now if I'm only doing say a detail like a welding bead on a panel then yes I will use the tube Testors glue for that fake detail stuff. But then even mostly I use superglue for all the stuff on my builds. I don't risk the builds with Testor stuff, I mean after I seen on afew of my younger day builds at how there glue left go and parts started to fall off and from the models and the glue was mostly rubber unlike super glue. I went with superglue (I use the red tube superglue now days all a time) and didn't even look back.I'm sorry to hear about your issue with the Testors glue bought, if you got it local, I would take it back and have them try using it them self's

Was really considering leaving this board all togother with all the mishaps it was having, joined afew other model forums as well in the last days and was going to deleted the link to this one out of my favorites this morning when I click on it and discovered the forum was back up after it was down. I took one day off afew days back and played GTA4 on the xBox360. Other then that I just worked mostly on afew model projects. So all in all, instead of me going crazy, I just went around the road block.

I seen one, I'm not sure how many molds they are using but a friend of mine out in town got afew in the other day. Open one to see what they look liked and I dropped by. The kit he open the shell will need some prep work, the work I would say is medium maybe. The driver side quarter panel just behind the rear side window needed work.. and not just flesh remove either but some edge leveling . Plus if you want the model to glow you can not paint it either. They even tell you this in the booklet. The kit is molded all in white and the ink marking words on the inside of the shell roof. Plus for you to get the model to glow the booklet said you have to expose the model to bright light to "charge" the shell up for it to glow. My friend left the shell set out on the counter in his shop for alittle while and then we took it down into the basement where it was dark at and nothing.So you must need to have the model right next to a bright light. It's basicly the same old General Lee kit but just molded in glow plastic is all and if you want it to glow you can't paint it.

Thanks for the laugh man. LOL

Maybe what you could is this, either use solid round stock (They do make some nice tiny small round sizes)and easy drill a hole down through it. Or take a open round stock and fill it with glue, leave it harden up and take an easy sand it down to size and then drill a hole in it. There is alot of ways to make the hing though, also try finding some 28 gauge wire. You can find that in probably alot of the picture frame hanging hardware areas in stores or in the craft area of the stores, the # I have here of mine is #50138 and the wire is for hanging stuff.