MoparWoman Jamie

I use the Smooth-On stuff mostly, good products. But I must say that around the beginning of the year, I did how ever run into afew issues with their rubber mold compound. I think I might have maybe got a bad batch or something though as before that I was having very good results and then around feb 2010, I got afew bottles or cans which ever you like to call them and the molds came out horrible and I have one mold here yet that came from that batch and that mold is coming apart in the center area where the rubber compound is not rubber but very soft though. I'm going to use some smooth on resin and put some on the back side of it to act as a glue. But after that the compound seem to work good once again for me. Also their release agent in the blue cans, are for diecast it seems. A friend of mine sold me a can of it over a year ago and each mold I used that stuff in.. didn't mater how many times you wash the resin parts off they would not hold paint at all. i mean you could spray paint them like you would any part BUT once the paint dried and you started to handle the part, the paint came right back off. I mean my friend and I tried all kinds of release stuff to clean the resin parts off and to get paint to stick on them nothing seem to work. I even tried spray glue on afew things I did and yet it seem it was working and then once the glue dried and i handled the part the glue came right off on my hand and glue is hard to remove off anything almost. He and I then switch to Stoner release agent and man that stuff is the bumb as I would use that stuff anyday before I would the smooth-on release agent! I would highly recommend the Stoner as a resin release agent and it can be use with the Smooth-On rubber mold compound and resin also. Don't be afraid to shoot the release agent into the mold either. Leave the mold set for at least 30 minutes after spraying Stoner into it before pouring resin into the mold. But I personally wouldn't recommend Smooth-On release agent.. my friend is still trying to get the dang smooth-on release agent out of some of his molds that used it in LOL.

I love it also! I'm trying to make hides or tails out of it all yet. LOL Nice phatom model.

I hear you there, LOL I'm waiting to see if he try's to take credit for one car in certain too which he didn't have part of.

dang son! I love what I am seeing here, your doing a very dandy good job so far. Keep it up bud!

Nice work so far man! I'll be watching this one also.

Can you post the photos alittle bigger please?

I'm going with Model on this one.

That is a good kit!

I use both flocking and embossing powder. If I had to pick which one I like more would be the embossing powder hands down. That stuff isn't like flocking at all. As some of us know working with flocking can at times be a pain in the rear if you have to do touch ups in spots where the flocking wasn't that good. Now embossing powder on the other hand is way easier to work with. Say you had a thin spot, you could put some elmer glue down right on the embossing powder and cover the area and add more embossing powder.You can also use future shine with embossing powder as well as I also done that to. Now to cover a small area like the person above wants to do. If it was me, I would do one of the following ways. 1) I would get a small artist brush with a fine point. Get some elmers glue and easy apply the glue with the brush to the area and use the tip to get that nice fine line between the two tone. Then get some tweezers and easy use the tweezers to apply the flocking to said area. this way you are keeping the flocking in control. Then when applied take your finger and easy press down on the flocking to make sure all the flocking under it makes a real nice connection with the glue. Then leave the panel or tub set for afew hours or over night. Then take and use another artist brush, say the next day to easy clean the flocking left overs off the panel by easy brushing it off.. or you could just blow it off. LOL 2) I would get a post card, if the panel is a flat panel that can be layed down. I would take and make a templet of the area, trace it out on the post card and then cut that area out of the post center but just make it alittle smeller. Get your self some spray glue elmers and place the card over the panel. M<ake sure teh card is was bigger then what the panel is and make sure th card is laying close to or on the panel as possible and keep one hand with afew fingers on the card and use the spray glue give it afew think light swips. Then take and add the flocking and press down on it like I mention above. wait for at least afew hours to make sure the glue dried and clean off the left over flocking. I have done both of those moves and also afew others with very good results.. even with the embossing powder as well. But the embossing powder is way more easy to work with. LOL

Well, it looks like either Romell or myself will have to show this trick. LOL If you want to see mine sooner, look "on the work bench" area for a thread that reads something like Custom General Lee in the works.. well it's by me. You should see some of the door jams in that thread. Mine sets on the shell inside walls and lets the interior tube slide past them. They can be attach to the tube though is I wanted them to.

Are you feeling okay, Harry? I got chills just looking at the photo alone!

Yea! wonder who makes this big a scale kit?

Oh man, I have a scare from a xacto accident that took place back in 2007. The scare itself is 2 1/4 long but the visble scare piece that you can see real well is about 1 inch long though. I can post what happen and also afew photos of what the scare looks like if you all want to see. Also just for the record I didn't go to the E.R at all.

Well around my part, people calls the shifter and the linkage the "shifter linkage", that's why I said shifter linkage for. I guess out your way they call the parts by them shelves. So to me when you answered that before, I thought you was talking about the whole unit the shifter, the brackets and the linkage being as one from another kit. That's why I said what I did today for bro. I wasn't trying to start anything, but before when you said from another kit I thought it was for the whole thing not just a very small piece LOL. Sorry, my bad.

[ quote name=Aftashox' date='13 August 2010 - 04:09 PM' timestamp='1281730141' post='348425] Um jim I think maybe you have me confussed with someone eles, I carved the handle from scrap plastic and the acual shift lever is a piece of stainless piano wire. The finger pull is made from a staple. i dont know of any kits with those kind of parts in them. Just a miss understanding no problem. Its"scratch built" just go back and check the build it all in there. [ /quote] I did go back, like you suggest me to do LOL. Me: Romell: I did indeed ask about the shifter.. and it was from you as well. LOL

Bro, I hope you don't mind, but I'm going to join you on the laughing part here! I'll be watching this thread once again for the real car to take shape. If you have have the same skill for on the bigger stuff that you do for on the scale stuff. This is going to be one heck of a good build on the bigger one as well!

I don't want to start anything, but you told me once it was from a kit that had extra parts in.

Talk about ac! I do have more photos but like before I'm saving them for another day

Okay here is the 1941 Wooden Woody project so far. This is going to be a fun one. This is only the start more photos coming..

Well, I'm not trying to be a smart alec either, but what I am in the process of working on isn't really a truck, but it is a monster though. But i did just found a area in the far bottom of Model Trucks that I was looking for. I have no idea why my dang pc didn't show me that before it onlt showed me two areas in the Model trucks area before. Just after I posted the thread here the pc then showed me 3 areas down there

Okay, I found places on the site for almost each model thing BUT what the heck do I post Monster truck photos at though? I can't seem to find the area for that.

I been working on afew projects recently in the evening, jumping from one to another. I want to share them here with you all on the work bench area sense they are also on LOL my work bench also. Well is a small update some what on this project "1941 Custom Wooden Woody" . While I have to wait for the decal sealer on project JB666 to dry and and wait for the putty on project Australian US Mack Superliner to dry. I been working on afew other project as well . On this one I mark out the body lines with the marker. Almost each place you see with a black line will be cut or I should say chop probably before long to. For you old timers out there, that like these old vehicles, this will probably be one build you might like to watch , because what I have in mind and plan, you don't see everyday going on with a model. LOL Now I plan to take the kit tires and rims that came with the kit and replace them with the older kind (I already have on hand) because the ones that came with the kit is hot rod style rims and low pro tires. I'm doing this build old school style. Feedback is always welcome.

I like what you did! But I have to ask, how does the interior fit?

Man, I can't even say how much I really like watching his builds take shape and then to finally see them finish is something else. I remember that truck build of his very very well . That was the build that me and him kinda became online friends by.. me and him have been friends sense then. Romell, keep up the good work bro. I enjoy watching your builds and others also.

Okay, I'm only going to post afew photos for now only. If interest please pm me or email me jrfair2003@yahoo.com . These are door hinges (I had people before asking me what they was LOL)