seeker589

Great looking stuff! Where did you source the seat or is it fabricated? I'm looking for a good replication of a Kirkey road race seat.

I am SO digging that - outstanding weathering - great stance!

I Love the Build! Where did you get the pin-striping decal on the back deck? It seems to be Von Dutch's "Harvey shaken by cross-breeding" - one of his more famous single works. Some have called it his self portrait.

And it DIDN'T even place?!?!? You got ripped off! I really like that! Good use of imagination! And execution!

That looks great - thanks for sharing!

Some build Ideas: '32 swamp buggy '32 mud bogger '32 truck puller '32 monster truck '32 auto-crosser - stock/Street Prepared/Prepared/Modified '32 Pike's Peak Hillclimber '32 IMSA style endurance racer - both current and built in historic form in any of the previous seasons since 1932. '32 Lowrider - build in "the bomb" style '32 SCORE trophy truck '32 Dirt hillclimber (not road race style) '32 Rear engined street rod '32 minivan '32 scotch-tape dispenser '32 candy dispenser '32 pancake '32 telephone '32 rollback - using the sedan body COE! Use your imagination '32 - uncertain D(euce) '32 flashlight '32 woodstove

Yea! What his guy said! Really - the best thing about being a model builder is that we can build and change anything we would want on a build and it won't cost an arm and a leg. Nothing is sacred in plastic! What are the other build themes at the NNL East this year? Maybe those who don't like the '32 idea could try one of those.

Harry! That was hilarious! I almost choked on my hot dog! The fuel can truck was hysterical! Thanks!

This is gonna sound like the oddest advise but... Get out a kit you almost like and violate every rule in the book. Rip the parts off the trees - use way too much glue and only from a tube, paint the body with really thick brush paint after the model is all glued together, glue the wheels on crooked. Build it like you would have when you were ten! Like the ONLY goal was to get it done - regardless of final appearance! Then look at the finished model and list all the skills you have learned. Those accomplishments most likely will show you why you build the models you do build with the care you build them with. Good luck!

Looks great! Very Clean build - I'll look forward to seeing that one!

NICE! Box flares give me goose-bumps! I LOVE 'em! Is it safe to say EVERYTHING looks better with box flares? Box Flares on a Mopar minivan would even look cool. How about box flares on a Lincoln Continental?! Heck Yea!!!

The '51 Chevy is one of the cars I would love to own someday. You made it look GOOD! Nice Work.

Looks nice and clean - like it could roll into a rod show at any time. The top looks much better than the turret they put on from the factory. The color combination is outstanding. I like the details - just enough to set the car apart. Well done.

I had to look twice to see if it was my old race car! But mine wasn't as shiny! I bought it for about $275 with a really bad suspension and a blown motor and it was barn dirty. I called it The Brick - it was so UN-shiny. I used it for Pennsylvania Hillclimb events. It blew a piston (ring land)at the same time i ran out of money so I sold it about 7 years ago.

Enjoy your build! I'm also trying to get out of a 18 year break. I'm trying to build a '69 Coronet - but keep finding things I would like to change - I just wanna get it done and put it on the shelf and enjoy it - but I keep wanting to add or change this or that - thinking if I built this car in 1:1 scale -what would I do?. Model building is about fun - glad you are having it! It really does look good!

Super Stock cars were about 1 to 2 seconds faster then their stock counterparts. there were quite a few Modifications allowed in Super Stock. Heck - today - "stock" class Hemi Darts are running in the low 9s and well into the 8s. Those cars ran 11s in true STOCK form from the dealership. The scoop would date the model late 80s and early 90s. I'm not sure when the NHRA changed the Convertible cage rules.They changed them to one second slower in the last ten years or so. These are currently available rollcage and rollbar kits form S&W: Hope this helps. I have to ask - Does anyone else enjoy reading rulebooks? I like finding rulebooks online and printing them out just to find a hole or to plan a build and what I have to change on a 1:1 car or a 1/25 kit.

I have been out of the hobby for quite some time. One of the kits that I went GA-GA over before my break was the Baldwin-Motion kit from AMT. It was a very good alternative to spending the insane prices for the 70s annual kits. The kit has good proportions and nice detail. There was also a release soon after the B-M Camaro of a well proportioned 70 1/2 Z/28 using the same tooling from the B-M kit - it was quite nice from what I understand. I purchased a kit a few years (about 1990 - 91) before the B/M kit - also by AMT - of a 70 1/2 Camaro (very retouched Orange box art). It was overly simplified JUNK! I think it had metal axles or something with a molded in rear axle a very badly proportioned engine for the car - I'm not even sure the small block had siamesed exhaust ports for the headers. it also had HUGE taillight holes in the rear panel. So what we have is: 70s annual kits - Very nice - and quite expensive. A mystery 70 1/2 Camaro kit from AMT with bad proportions and contours and overly simplified building. The Baldwin-Motion 70 Camaro kit - a very nice alternative. A 70 1/2 kit from AMT released after the B/M kit with the B/M tooling. And now a re-release of another AMT Camaro mystery kit - which one is it? One final question - which kit is the Model King kit - the good one from the B/M tooling or the junk one from the AMT release prior? In other words - what Camaro kit(s) do we avoid?

Looking good - I was wondering what you were doing with the fade - then the flame mask showed up - very nice. Remember - the NHRA and the IHRA have stricter roll-bar and roll-cage requirements for Convertables - pretty much if the car goes less than 13.99 in the quarter - it has to have a full cage and five point harness. I would think that a car of this class or speed would be going at least in the low elevens to high tens - therefore a cage would be required. Check with some rollbar/rollcage vendors for ideas on 1:1 scale examples. S&W, Alston and Ed Quay come to mind - there are others.

I gotta go with this opinion - Being fenderless has some nice edge to it. The white-walls add to the edge. With fenders - it looks too late Barris-like. I'm more a fan of The Barris brothers before Sam died. After the Hirohata Merc - George got too Hollywood - just too bling-bling for me - not enough design restraint. What "LOOK" are you going for? P.S. -I know I may have stepped on a few toes expressing my opinion of George - I'm sorry. I did get to meet him a few years ago - It was quite a highlight - even if he was trying to pick up the blond that was hanging out at his autograph table - she may have been one third his age! More power to ya, George!

LOVE the stance! You just can't tuck wheels far enough up into the front fenders on those fat trucks!

Very nice! I had a '86 'Rocco - MAN! I miss that car!

This picture needs no caption: I found it and NEEDED to share it.

Craig's list - word of mouth - parts cars that are too far gone (read rusty or bent) for restoration. There are 10 cars/vans/trucks for sale - posted since 25th Dec. in the Lancaster, Pa Craig's list ads. I can just imagine the opportunities in a large city! I have no problem racing a Chrysler minivan! Racin's racin'! I've seen people build 10 second cars for less than $2500. No they aren't beaters - in fact they are a work of fabrication art! http://www.hotrod.com/featuredvehicles/hrdp_0802_homebuilt_heros/74_datsun_70_camaro_62_corvette.html - The part about the Datsun. This car was built for less than $2500 - runs 10.7 in the quarter. I have to add - it lifts the front tires a foot off the ground on launch! I feel for the derby people - I'm sure that the CFC program has made a dent in their plans. Fortunately for those involved in grassroots motor sports like road racing, autocross, or rally-cross or any other like sport - we like the cars that didn't get approved for the CFC program like VWs, Toyotas, Nissans and Hondas and the like.

Yup - What he said. Initial purchase price of $500 then you add safety equipment. The idea of cheap racing is an oxymoron - but more affordable racing is a more realistic descriptor. If a team of four or five shares the cost - each person contributing $800-$1000 should get a good car with some realistic amount of spares. A team of four or five with 24 hours of driving should get each and every driver more seat time than each one would average in one year of club racing. Check out the Grassroots Motorsports message board. http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/ They are bunch of motorsports loonies that LOVE this stuff. Its OK - they are safe - I know a few of 'em. They should be able to answer some questions not covered elsewhere.