seeker589

There are some 'parts sellers' on eBay. Some are reasonable and some are outrageous. Like 15 dollars for a AMT Roadrunner frame/suspension (stock)?! I have kits that are missing parts (due to my or other people's scavenging) Should I try to sell these parts as sub assemblies or is it better to sell these parts as kits disclosing the parts that are missing. I can see that more money could be made selling the sub assemblies - but how much interest is there in just parts?

This is really good topic as I am currently thinning my collection due to space considerations. eBay ID: grmnut I try to include: -picture of the box - including the description of the condition of the box. -picture of the side of the box if the illustrations are good -picture of the whole kit laid out on the table or floor with a full view of the all parts. -Detail pictures of any flaws the kit may have (warped or broken parts, scratched or cracked "glass",etc) -A detailed description of all flaws -I also invite bidders to contact me with ANY questions When I post an auction I try to start that auction at around half of what the kit would be in the store if it were sealed. If the kit had been opened and fondled (one of the funnest things to do in modelling, I think) I then reduce the starting price by 30-40%. If parts are missing - I start it at $3 or so - somebody should bid on it if it is that cheap What else would YOU want to see in a model auction? What is a reasonable handling charge for a kit? Boxes, gas to the store and my time are worth something. One thing that I fear is that bidders want the item NOW! Due to work constraints - I can't make it to the post office or the local shipping store until Friday or Saturday. I don't do this as a business - I'm just a builder/collector. How much understanding should I expect from a bidder? Gotta go and ship two 1/8 Monogram kits I sold this week!

This is a great example of egos and control in the hands of idiots. I really hope that this abused member didn't return to that club. I just can't see how a well balanced individual(s) could think that this is acceptable behavior?!

My daily driver - not the fastest - but a whole lot of fun to drive: A car I painted years ago - owned by a good friend. I got to hillclimb it when I fed my OmniGLH its tranny the day before : My first autocross car (the car that ate its tranny): Other cars I've owned: '68 Mustang coupe, '83 Z28 Camaro, '78 Caprice Classic Estate Wagon, '89 Ford F150, '87 Toyota MR2, '91 Geo Storm GSi, '86 Monte SS, '92 VW Jetta (I've owned two of these - both white), 2-'86 Omni GLH turbos (one red - one black), '91 Crown Vic Wagon, '96 Sebring Convert, '86 VW Scirocco, '99 Grand Caravan, '00 Dodge Intrepid

Great silver paint - Great stance - Clean Build - nice detailing! I would most definitely drive that - just not passed too many gas stations!

A not-so-Mini-Ha-Ha! I loved that car! Great Job!

That thing WORKS! Just the right content of the original - with the bad stuff made so much better. I like it a-whole-lot-better than the original. Really love the stance! Great job!

The Artist that rendered that illustration is Bo Zolland. His stuff is awesome!! Do searches for Viztech and Bo Zolland for an overload! I LOVE your build so far. Very nice scratch building and attention to detail! Here are some of his other illustrations: Late model Challenger with box flares: Stude Lime green Grand Sport A REALLY low Cougar Custom Volvo P1800 Just amazing detail and imagination!

I shoulda looked before I posted. I found two Jeeps on eBay. One is the Hogan's Heros Jeep (How could a POW get a Jeep in a German camp?) and the other is from Hasegawa with a 50 cal machine gun. The Hogan's one is much cheaper at $15 - I think I'll get that one!

As the Title and description say: I'm looking for either plastic or resin Jeep CJ2A bodies or whole kits. Does anyone make one and where can I find them? I did hear years ago that there was some confusion about Chrysler's copyright on these. What ever became of that? Thank you

I found these recently. For Inspiration:

I have the Drift Cuda on my desktop. Very cool stuff!

I did some research on the origin of these pics(the deadly sleds ones). They were done with a Nintendo DS and a down-loadable add-on. Fascinating!

Greetings gents! It's been quite awhile since I posted last, but here it is. This website is full of little sketches - some quite odd of some possibly really cool building ideas. Not to literally copy his ideas - but use them to generate some build ideas of your own. http://www.deadlysleds.com/ The following is a blog site of a Mopar E-body fan from New Zealand: http://ebodies.blogspot.com/search?updated-min=2010-01-01T00%3A00%3A00-08%3A00&updated-max=2011-01-01T00%3A00%3A00-08%3A00&max-results=50 Some of his computer illustrations put E-bodies in some places we may not have thought of - like Bozozoku or Drift Missile or 'Cuda rat rod. It also has some very cool illustrations of some historic drag cars. Enjoy!

Subject says it all. From the E3 Gaming/electronics conference two minutes ago. The reason I posted it here is I use video games for building encouragement.

This build is coming along SLOOOOOWWWWWWWW. Trying to buy a business, sell a house and take care of my mother-in-law is a bit time consuming. Here goes - Olive drab out of a Krylon can. Stars on side sprayed through a star cut out of a file folder - see pics. It will be slammed with black bumpers and wheels - contrasted with a chrome grill and taillight panel. The wheels will be the kit's custom Centerline style wheels - painted black with rivet and lug detail. Maybe I'll get more done in the next month or two. Not having a bench shucks!

I was surfing and found some inspiration. I just did a search for "evo V time attack".

$7500. For a MODEL KIT!?!? I have friends that have race-cars built for WAYYY below that! Others have race budgets of half that for the whole year! <<<<<< This Chevy small block Beetle was built for less than $2000. It runs mid to low 10s. Crack - it has to be crack...

You may want to confirm that it applies to "Hobby items". I grabbed a coupon (50%) off the net for A.C.Moore to buy my nephew a kit - only to find (in REALLY fine print) that the coupon didn't apply to some items in the store - including model kits. I know I'll be going - I wonder - since the sale runs a whole week - can you visit the store multiple times and get 50% off one item each time? 50% off of seven kits can add up - $70 or so!

Love the Color! Love the stance! Love it! Good work! Keep the updates coming!

Something just dawned on me - There are some successful amateur racers on track that have less fabrication in their 1:1 cars than this model! Quite possibly less money, too. Great job! Keep it up - it is quite inspirational!

My kidneys and my back are killing me just looking at that! Race cars need suspension! At least for me. Did you notice the "skaters" from Saudi had nothing but sandals on! Read some of the comments - they are hilarious!

My first car was a 1968 Mustang Coupe. 195HP - Two Barrel - 289 - C4. Sea Foam Green. Burned copious amounts of oil while smoking for mosquitoes. Here is an illustration of a '68. Mine was neither blue or remotely straight, bodywork wise. One thing mine did have was head rests. I have never seen any coupes with them other than mine. My second car was much prettier: It was just as pictured. Blue - no T-tops - Crossfire 305 with automatic and 165 furious horsepower! It stayed nice until I spun it into a wall in suburban Sacramento one evening. Totaled. Neither one of these pics are of my cars. I used them for examples.

Normally the more narrow the track at one end of the car - the less stable it is. With a track that wide in the rear, and a track that narrow at the front, coupled with what looks like no visible wing on the front may just cause some major under-steer or push. They wanna road race that?!?!?! I can see it on flat ovals - but twenty of those trying to navigate a hairpin while driving in anger? I have my doubts.

SNOW!!!