Cato

Almost never in the day; but frequently on over-restos of today. Glad you approve.

Engine heavily in assembly. But jumping ahead a bit, I decided blackwalls. After some basecoats of the maroon on the front fenders, that sealed it for me. Wheels all done in paint and with valvestems and caps:

If you want something other than the gray look, Testors Jet Exhaust looks very much like my 1:1 mag Halibrands when cast.

Contact Jameson for the straight story.

Or what the Harry in your ID wrote???

No-You've just had Def Leppard cranked off the scale while driving...............

I bought a new 2002 in '69 and loved most of it. But it was 'tippy' with a high Cg. Thicker Autopower anti roll bars f & r and lowed Empi springs fixed that. Tons of fun then. The Contis were junk but that just made it more challenging and fun.

Here you are Karsten-it's very simple: http://www.csxinfo.net/web/modules/xcgal/displayimage.php?pid=831&album=124&pos=4

Karsten, Beautiful fabrication and finish. But I must ask; did you use a replica or model kit for reference? You have everything nearly perfect except the simplest part-the roll bar. The front legs come down behind the seat, not behind the bulkhead. And the rear leg has no bend in it; goes straight into the deck. Did Michael not share with you the reference pictures of mine when he did his 427 a couple of years ago? You guys are fabulous, just need original accurate reference.

Was it Duplicolor clear also?

Size is a brush on adhesive for the leaf. Like foil adhesive only thinner.

That .025 wire equals a 5/8" OD in 1:1. That's acceptable for your use.

They seem very accurate David. I had those on my '67 396 Chevelle. The steel centers were Argent and the separate trim rings and cap were chrome.

Do you get the same texture in the finish when you shoot right from the can?

Mind the gap between the rear clip and the chassis tub (where the fuel tanks are). Sand the upper inner edge of the clip and you still may have to shim the clip bottom edge to meet the tub.

That's the green mat reflecting in the Alclad. EDIT: That's not what you mean Skip-I see it now. It may be molded into the bumper.

Pete, Please post any one page of the instruction sheet-you must have to be Carnac to figure it out...

Smart move Jason. Get Eric to post a snap of his car-it'll inspire (or depress!) you. It's very detailed and pin-neat.

Thanks guys. Like a fight, one should pick and choose when and where to be meticulous. I think I'm getting stupid about where I'm meticulous.

Welcome David. Spend some quiet time going through this section: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showforum=8 And the section below that, the Tips and Tricks' section. Very many of your questions will be answered.

If no one has spares for you, make them. Make a paper template of the opening. Get some 'baking pan' thin aluminum and cut to template shape. The upper curve is not compound and is easily matched. Make an inner frame from paper clip and hinge it or leave glued closed. That's very much just like the 1:1.

For the last week, I have been (admittedly) doing a stupid amount of prep on the engine proper and trans case. Harry will blast me because I know the top of the trans will be unseen against the floor boards and a lot of the engine block and pan prep will be hard to see between the frame rails. But my illness is that I just can't leave gaps, seams and Pocher's trademark poor fits uncorrected. If nothing else, it's improving my finishing techniques. There are also seams and gaps in places impossible to fill and sand...but so far, I got 'em... I have been steadily photo-ing the parts and will organize and post some soon.