Cato

Who makes this 1/8 kit?

The best way to mix in a controlled manner is to get several eye droppers-the glass kind. Ten drops of paint, another dropper, ten drops of thinner. Or any ratio you want. Mix 2 or 3 paints together? Same thing, varying the amounts of the colors. Clean the droppers in a small jar of thinner or enamel reducer. Store your mixes in vials or glass jars and label them as to color and mixture.

Carry on!

Very sharp work Gene. One criticism I hope helps; I would have shortened the steering column a tad and tilted it a bit so the wheel is not touching the seat. I know the 1:1 has a long naked column but in scale you want to fool the eye a bit so it looks 'right'. Driver legs supposed to fit... Hope that helps for your next build.

Francois, If you're still paying attention, would you sharing some info about how the Heller kit is to build? Is it accurate and do parts fit well or need much sanding and filling? Did you rescribe panel lines after removing raised lines and details? I ask because Fisher now offers resin correction sets for this kit and I'm very interested. But there are very few available on ebay and are expensive and so are the Fisher sets. Any info you share is appreciated.

Harry gives a very succinct and accurate definition. I have built both and he's correct. The 'scale difference' makes one a model and one a replica.

Then we can disagree. In the world of replicas, original type powerplants add desirability and resale value. Cobras, Grand Sports and Heritage Jaguars are examples. A Fiero-engined Lamborghini is an example of the exact opposite. All the effort the builder put in to an exact body is lost when the hood goes up on a Nissan.

While I agree that motor can make big power, it's just too incongruous (modern) with that classic, pure Aston shape. I spent a lot of time with a DB5 and that elegant 6 taught me about the simplicity of torque. Very similar to the later E-Type. I'd have used a Brit big 6 in that replica.

Well it's here and now and cheap enough. Too bad about Nissan power for such a beautiful original shape: http://www.foxnews.com/leisure/2013/08/01/new-zealander-building-3d-printed-aston-martin-db4/?intcmp=features

Like a great big LP-700??

That's probably a 'box scale' model as was a frequent offering 30+ years ago. Today ROG makes a 144 scale kit which gets luke-warm reviews for accuracy. I was hoping for the 1/72 kits from Airfix / Heller, about which I have also read has raised lines and accuracy issues. Can't imaging why a modern mfgr. won't do an accurate, larger scale Connie with our improved molding techniques....

I thought to cool the clutch discs(s?). Inside the tube is just a pair of u-joints. Having said that, I don't know why cool the clutch; it's not exactly a tractor puller...

I'd contact Garlits as Bill suggests and ask for material or a chance to photo it yourself. He's very accommodating to fans-especially in person at the museum.

Any info on what appears to be two 'vents' in the bellhousing, between the exhausts?

R. Petterson

I'm posing a question here because it pertains to aircraft and figure it's not for the 'Questions' forum. Specifically, I seek info on models of the Lockheed Constellation airliner. More specifically, the L-1049 Super G version in 1/72 scale. I have tons of reference pics of the 1:1 but have found all the models are OOP. Fisher Pattern has developed resin improvement parts for the old Heller kit but the only models available are on Ebay and darn few too. I've found that Heller and or Airfix are allegedly re-releasing this kit but it is not on either site nor any dealers world-wide. Having found some old kit reviews online from 2004 and 2007, I found out that sadly, the Heller kit was mediocre at best. Raised panels lines and some shapes are a bummer. Don't know why some manufacturer (or even Fisher) has not done a brand new kit of (arguably) the most beautiful shape ever flown. Any guidance or experience appreciated.

Don't give up Mike-post them and we will come...

Using BMF as a mask will eliminate the need for spraying edges. It's thinner than tape too.

It's a magnificent hand made work of art in a tiny scale no less. But there are many, many inaccuracies to 1:1. But well worth having and I'm sure the price is scary...

No-white glue. Thin it if needed for fine areas or use dots of it on larger areas. Will need to rubberband or clamp a bit while setting. Micro Kristal Klear works well too because it's similar. Simply pry apart or if stubborn, run under warm water. My other tip was dental floss to tie parts for gluing or just mock-up. Glad to see you're building again.

A jewelers type file is best to remove the rivets. Dremel too aggressive-even on low speeds. Be patient with a file and dress it after with 220 to 600 grit wet-or-dry paper. For the body openings, I'd drill starter holes using the Dremel cordless. Then use a circular cutting bit or sanding drum depending on the size of opening, to enlarge. Dress with files.

Lately I've been back to painting-acrylic on canvas. Using large tubes of paint, mixing and waste are always a problem. I had some 12 and 15 compartment plastic storage containers that are like $2 each. Was using them for small part organization. Well, the light went on and I mixed some paint in one that I would need to reuse later on. Makes a great 'well' to hold the color and has a closeable plastic lid. Paint stays fresh for weeks and saves a lot. Washes clean when done with water or isopropyl. Works perfectly for acrylics on models too...

Glass or plastic Tom?

Forget cans-the best is baking pans found in the supermarket. The kind that are like a cross between foil and a pan. They are .005" thick and cut with a small sharp scissors-a dream to work with and there are plenty of flat areas to use. Make paper or styrene templates first. Easy to bend / curl or crease. On my 1 / 12 GT-40 I made the oval air pan and straight firewall heat shield. They can be super glued and can finish with 0000 steel wool or go full polish. And it's definitely worth the no-hassle. It's a 'real thing' look.