Cato

Remain seated Greg-I clearly told George that I 'got' that. You left out 331, 427 and 460. I don't hafta know-I'd call that 'SBC'-with no oil pan...

Easy George. I did not create an argument. We are all entitled to build as we like and I recognize that. I pointed-out some inaccuracies in case it might be useful for him in a future build. If he doesn't care-that's fine. He could have in fact used a tall-deck assembly from someone like Ross Gibson for instance, if he chose. I like to build to 1:1 engineering and practicality-didn't say we all have to.

Nice model Don but quite an imagination! 815 huh? Don't think so. Can't see the turbos but the intercoolers look way too small.That looks like a stock Boss 429. And I can't see Jon's name on the castings... To get to 815, the deck would need to be taller and the bore spacing would have to be over 5". You pegged the 'Outrageous' meter though just on looks!

To brush Tammy acrylics, I thin with iso or Createx and it will coat out better. Airbrushing the acrylic black and scraping the letters also a good method.

OFF TOPIC-Now Prince Harry????????????????

Brush acrylic and when totally dry, rub the letters carefully with flat toothpick.

Harry-has the wood provided been straight-like the spars? Had to cut new wood frequently in the old days. Is the die cutting clean or do you have to trim and remove 'hair'? If you're not already doing so, put waxed paper on top of plan sheets and build / glue onto top of that. Also useful when you laminate those wing tips. What happened with the spinner cone?

My bad-soon I'll need a magnifier to read posts!

You can try the L'eggs part but the contours may differ from the subject. I'd get some Renshape and carve / sand it. For the hood panel (s) in metal-you have to practice beating it, maybe with heat to shrink the curves. I think the thinner the better. And you'd need a curved anvil to beat against-maybe the wife's daily driver?? Should have asked me about the silkspan-I built and flew 1/4 scale R/C in the '70's and 80's. Last was a 6' span CAP-10B with some fiberglass cloth covering and prior was a1930 Fleet mail bipe--7+' span. CA was used extensively on spars and rib joins and epoxy on bulkheads. Would have speeded-up your process faster than the tube glue. Jus' sayin' .

Beautiful as always Harry. How are the vertical and horizontal stabs covered? Is that silkspan and dope?

Works well on tires too...

Cool, thanks guys.

Anyone know if resin parts can be sent to model platers for chrome? Failing that-can Alclad be applied to resin in the normal manner with good adhesion?

Harry-you need to write a book just about yourself and feature every model you've ever built. You'd be rich...

I'll stress again, getting an accurate model depends on whether the manufacturer digitizes one of the 6 originals or the new Kirkham aluminum replica.

Thanks for the tips and links.

The above photo is a Factory Five replica. You don't want that. Gunze did it best and those are gone.

Anyone have a good system to make them? Are they commercially available? Styrene, brass, PE?? Show me what you've done-thanks.

I saw it and you will be a major contributor here. Great skill level.

Welcome and start posting!

I've had success with regular light gray primer, a thin coat of gold and then bright reds. Like a light shining through the red.

:angry:

Great to have you here. Keep posting.

YIKES! Glad I didn't say that. BTW Dirty Harry-I'm asking this because I'm not too lazy to paint the black on MY Pocher...

Thanks to both-very helpful.