Cato

Fine for a 2 bolt main block but I wouldn't put another hole in a cross-bolted block like mine. A center position sump might not clear his '48 cross member anyway. Much better to fix the chassis like in 1:1-you'd have to do custom mounts anyway as well as trans cross member. Tubular parts allow header room also. I'm no expert but don't the rod shops do front clips from Novas and Camaros on the fat-fender cars??

Try the web sites of Fatman Fabrications and Heidts (there are others) -they make tubular custom front members and suspensions for stuff like the '48. If you see an illustration, you should be able to scratch build it and use the FE correctly.

Not something you'd want in 1:1 practice. To model it incorrectly, you may as well sand the sump off the pan you have. Just close the bottom of the engine. Here's mine on a Sideoiler:"> The pump is right behind the timing chain at #1 main. The Canton pick-up tube runs to the pick-up just out of frame at left. You can't just extend the tube all the way aft-too long and can't brace it to a main bolt. Vibration would crack the tube. Plus the taper of the stock pan couldn't be used-you'd need a full-depth pan all the way. Plus the stock pan has an asymmetrical kick-out at the oil filter boss. Just modify the chassis and linkage-that's what hot-rodding is about. If it's a Cobra, the front sump will clear the cross member on a CSX and most replicas have no cross members under the engine.

If you want to add some interest, add a Summit, Jegs or World logo on the box sides.

Yes it's on a pallet inside a wood or cardboard box. Not much to look at closed. You can fab a pallet and an open cardboard box on it's side nearby-or a bunch of loose boards. The motor bolted to simple feet on the pallet.

Chevelle. That baby was a street-racing delight. Ate 442s, GTOs, Mustangs and Gran Sports. Muncie WR 4 speed, 3:73s and after 1 year, I painted it Cadlliac Firemist Blue-that was a big thing back then....

Very cool build. Glad to see the model reissue lived so well over the decades. Alas, sorry, no old spare decals.

Yup-'69. I debated pulling it apart and doing the wings and struts in BMF and horsing-around with lines and fittings. But as I said, there's something about the simple, nostalgic statement they make with a little patina. I love 'em more than when new.

Dude-that model is 39 years old-probably older than you are...........

Thanks guys. There's a few of us 'closet' open-wheel guys eh?? BTW Jeff- I had a '67 396 / 375 brand new in '67...

OK to support you rabid F1 lovers, I dragged out a few of my old crocks. These were built in the '70's---when they were still on track! I prefer the character of these earlier generation cars to today's cyborgs. Great to see the fine work you guys do. These were the days before PE, BMF and AN fittings and all the great details we have today. They are pretty fragile from being stored so many years but they survive. They actually acquired 'patina' over the years; the whites yellowed a bit, decals faded slightly and the paints have developed a nice near matte finish. Just like old race cars that sat in storage, it presents a nostalgic appearance. I actually like them more now than when new. Tamiya has been making fine replicas for decades. Long live F1 modeling!

That's a vacuum pump. Designed to evacuate the crankcase and reduce rotating drag from blowby and improve ring seal. Usually made by Moroso. To the OP-driving the alt from the driveshaft is actually a good idea on many levels as suggested above. Many drag cars do that because they don't idle much. It works for ProStreet guys for the same reason. On a model, you'd be burying detail for not much visual payoff-if you could even fit it. A detail on the driveshaft or pinion snout of the rear is a great detail when displayed properly. On 1:1 Cammers, tuners don't clutter the oil pan area or chain covers when they don't have to for maintenance.

How does this compare to Spaz Stix Chrome? I assume this is cheaper for one-but which has the harder shine?

Those are NOT Halibrand wheels. Great idea--great job.

Excellent source Casey-I see the discrepancy now. Those are bolt on wheels-never found on a Cobra. Avanti equipment. Text says they were available with pin drive adapters optionally. The surprising thing is that they were cast in Mg. Can't tell if the bolt heads are on the model wheels you're showing. Except for the crown at the center, they vaguely resemble Cobra FIA wheels, which were knockoff. These are FIA wheels:

^^^Those are NOT Halibrand wheels of any type. If they are labeled as such in the kit, they are a very poor representation.

Year and a half, '83 to '85. Complete make-over to this form in '91 - '92. From mild 428 to 550HP Sideoiler, magnesium pin drive Halibrands, this custom paint-the list and $$ goes on and on. I warn you all the Cobra models you start with are seriously compromised for accuracy. But I saw you bring that GT-350 back from the dead so I know you can get it right. Aren't your GM customers going to be miffed about you turning to the 'darkside'??

I knew you were using 1:1 methods. For my ERA I shot guide coats and did sanding sticks for weeks. Color, stripes and lots of clear, much of it taken down from 1200 to 3 compound grades with wool and foam wheels. Thanks for sharing: BTW-seen here the paint is 20 years old.

You missed my questions in post #5. Care to discuss your painting method?

David, Do you color sand the clear or thin heavily? Do you guide coat the primer and sand flat?

Harry, please stop watching Fox news or rather, stop posting what they call news... Another reminder of the out-sized, overweight turds that GM turns out is painful.

Thanks for bringing up-to-date info for a desirable project.

I'd like to see the back side of the wheel in the jig and complete. Super job and execution. Looking for 'invisible thread' right now...

From the SMS instructions for their rivets and Dzus fasteners: "Peel the rubber backing away from the PE part, we don't recommend peeling the part from from the rubber backing. Use a tweezers to handle the parts...." Pretty much hit or miss...