Erik Smith

My current Pinto stock. I am not so sure the Pinto would be as anticipated Or popular as the Gremlin. There are some cars/brands that have very dedicated fans - AMC seems to be one. But who knows? The general public will more than likely pass on most of the Gremlin/Pinto releases, so it's up to the serious modeling crowd to purchase. My friends and family who dont build all wonder "why" when they see kits of "infamous" cars.

The most expensive, built, 1/24-25 scale models I have seen are replica stock. Usually a resin or rare plastic kit built very cleanly and with minimal extra detail. I watched a few go past $500 and $600 dollars. Now, is this a good way to make money? I don't know the answer for certain, but, if you factor in the cost of a kit, the paint, other misc building materials then put hours and hours of labor into it, you would probably be better off selling the kit unbuilt! The eBay listing you used as an example is a case in point. How much was that kit? Add paint. Add time. Add sellers fees. Add PayPal fees. Add time to package an ship. Add worry that the PO will destroy it...how much do you think the seller will make? Plus the fact that if your building something similar to diecasts, you are competing with streamlined production and distribution. What was the original question - oh, to weather a race car for sale. I don't know the answer to that. Watch eBay and search completed listings.

NIce choice for wheels. The change in colors is probably wise - I have trouble painting red plastic white.

Hey Richie Take a quick look HERE for a brief discussion of glue. You can also use the search function on the site - it's not perfect but can direct you to some other posts regarding glueing, etc. As far as a general rule, I assemble as much as I can before paint - if something, such as an engine block and heads, is going to be all the same color, there is no reason to paint, scrape, glue, and touch up - just glue first and paint it all at once. As David stated above, though, it really depends on what part of the assembly you are working on and what is the desired outcome. There are as many techniques as there are builders, so practice and building will be your best guides. For glues, I use CA (Crazy Glue, Super Glue) for a lot o assembly. It is fast and strong. If I need more time and/or strength, I use solvent based glue - usually Tamiya Thin or Testors liquid glue. I haven't used tube glue in ages - mainly because it is slow to dry and messy. For clear parts or small parts (mirrors, etc) I use Testors Clear Parts Cement, Elmer's White Glue, or a clear paint (Tamiya clear or Future (which is actually floor finish, but you can search this site and the web for more info there)).

I like it - wheel choice is great. Nice paint too. Engine shots?

Very nice. I like that color, especially with the red accents. Great, clean build.

What surprised me was that they were pretty much it. You have some variety in steel wheels (Holman Moody's), but probably 90% of the cars are running steel wheels. I have couple Car Crafts, too, from 1962, and you either had chrome steel wheels or full wheel covers. This may not be so surprising to folks who were living in 1962, but I was negative 9 at the time, so I don't remember it. What's up with Photobucket putting that first picture sideways?

I was pretty much being really sarcastic - the Fiat kit is great. I agree, overall, Tamiya kits are the Bee's Knees.

Cool. That frame work looks great.

Third on the brass. I am actually painting a 66 Chevy Testors brass right now. The Graphite Dust is cool, but I see a car that color every thirty three seconds.

I like the look your going for. The red wheels really look nice with the body color. Interesting technique mixing the Future with the acrylics - does that help it harden? Fine Scale Magazine had an article about spraying the "folk" acrylics, but when I priced out all the products they combined to thin and harden the paints, I decided to skip it.

Tamiya so messed up the Fiat 500D kit. Compare the vents... Real car: Tamiya's try: OMG! Tamiya is not perfect either, but, if one would have to say "who makes the best kits ever", it could very well be Tamiya. As far as best kits...I think I already voted earlier in this post, like last year.

Here are a couple shots from Hot Rod 1962 Couple Pontiacs, steel wheels closest, heavy duty 8 lugs in back (which would make a cool choice): Bel Air running steel wheels (Lots of whitewall combos on the cars too): '62 Galaxie - steel wheels and wide whites narrow whitewalls: and a Ford powered Devin bodied car running the Pike's Peak Hill Climb: This represents three or four events across the country (Oregon, Colorado, Massachusetts).

Kind of stinks, but that's why I am enjoying this build. Lots of research - and you can't rely on Google because you can't confirm when the pictures were taken. I have been perusing magazines and books from 1962, so I know of it's in there, I can use it. As far as wheels go, back in 1962, there wasn't a huge selection of wheels that you could choose from. Looking at any performance events (drags, hill climbs, etc) you see bare steel wheels on full size cars, American and Halibrand mags on Hot rods, and full wheel covers (mostly on the customs side). I'll post a couple pics when I dig out an old Hot Rod magazine.

Nice looking paint and stance, but...Rally wheels in '62? I am no expert, but think the 5 slot rally didn't appear until 67? Correct me and tell me to hush if I am incorrect.

Okay, diverting the OP... I didn't know they made that engine as I was reading this yesterday: And thought that it woul be cool engine to throw into something.

This video is interesting on a number of levels. I really like these "How It's Made" style shows and videos. Surprisingly, my kids do to. I wouldn't think they would care how aluminum foil is made, but we watch some of the shows and they are interested. We have a Scalextric track so I'll have to show this to them. The job I want - helmet painter.

If you aren't going to repaint the whole piece of chrome, your best bet is either chrome paint (Testors enamel or a silver sharpie) or a small piece of Bare Metal Foil. You can strip the entire bumper, sand mold lines and other imperfections and repaint with a chrome paint such as Alclad II Chrome. You can search the site here or google info on Alclad II.

You would be better off just starting with a block of styrene then converting a V8 into a straight 6. There are plenty of kits with straight 6s: AMT 1950 Chevy PU AMT 1960 Chevy PU AMT 1951 Chevy Bel Air Revell 1941 Chevy PU Moebius Hornet Galaxie Limited 48 Chevy Aerosedan/Sedan Delivery Trumpeter 63 Chevy Nova ...just off the top of my head.

That car is so boxy it would be easy to scratch build. No, not really. This is the kind of building I love to see. It is awesome. So much work going unseen here. Not only do you have an eye for the proportions etc. but are putting the work in required to turn out something like this. Really nice. Can't wait to see more.

I like the gold with the black steel wheels - '70 RoadRunner wheels?

Looking very nice. Great color and detail. I love most of the lines of the 300, but I can never say I like the front end.

I like the color, a lot. The boot and seats too - really nice combo in there. The door panels might need some attention though. On the HT/T-bolt you can get away with the limited detail - on a convertible, I think it will stand out. They just look so flat and featureless. The chrome trim will really stand out on that dark brown. Should look fantastic.

My one attempt at a real rusty car - but I think the chassis turned out closer to a used/daily driver: Flat black, rust spots, and a final light dusting of flat tan. Still, it doesn't have a build up of gunk where gunk should be, etc..

I think this is one place the military modelers really stand apart from most car builders - and rightfully so, there are not really any needs for a new, show room tank or airplane. Car modelers can learn a tremendous amount from the other side of the hobby - I buy and read Fine Scale and other military oriented building mags and learn a lot about washes, etc. Here is a simple example of an older build of mine that I tried to get a daily driver/used look to the engine. I think metal finishes look so much better with light washes - not only for realistic weathering, but for replicating scale shadow effects: On chassis parts too, I have tried (with some limited effectiveness) to replicate what a car would look like if it is actually being used. The tough thing though...have you ever looked at a daily driven car and tried to figure out what color the chassis was? It's like brown but black but gray....