Erik Smith

Interesting question. I have been thinking about this subject for a while - mainly in an attempt to limit myself to purchasing certain kits. I have narrowed my favorite era, for American cars, to 1961 to 1966, or so. Really I am trying to concentrate on 1962/3. I just really like the long, simple lines of the era.

I agree with Casey - Don't bother with the Alumilite starter kit. For resin, I have found through the last two months that the Alumilite white (keep reading for more info) is much easier to work with. It is thinner, so it fills the mold better, and it sets slower, giving you time to pick out air bubbles or get the mold into the pressure caster. Also, the RTV in the beginner kit is not really the best - I have now tried the RTV High Strength 3 - better. For the white resin, don't buy the larger 28 oz bottles. Get the smaller bottles labeled Amazing Casting Resin in the 16 oz bottles. I have not been able to determine the difference between "Alumilite White" and the "Amazing Casting Resin" - except price. "White" is $30 for 28 oz. "Amazing" is $15 for 16 oz. ??? Look at the Alumilite website and they have the exact same qualities. The "Amazing" resin is not in the usual resin area at Hobby Lobby - it is in the jewelry section. Get a 40% off coupon and it is really cheap. I have also tried Smooth Cast 300, but found it very brittle. I have a real hard time getting parts that have undercuts out of the mold without destroying them. It takes time, practice, and wasting some resin and RTV, but it's fun.

Plus it's not molded in orange or dark purple plastic.

I think 1964 to 1972 marks the muscle era - maybe a little later? Although it is applied as a broad term, really, to any american car that was meant to go fast - generally two doors and lots of cubes.

I guess the essence of my post was...with digital technology, take pictures at different settings and see which ones look the best. Don't lock into smallest aperture just because it offers greatest DOF. Also, what others do may not apply to your camera, so again, experiment. It costs nothing to shoot and compare.

No problem. I have ordered from all the main spots in Japan (we have lost two in the last year though) and from shops and personal sellers in HK, never a duty fee.

I have to revise my answer here too - the '62 Impala is nice, but not technically a muscle car. 68 Charger.

Yes, true. So...um, last ten years? I'll have to get back... 66 Nova, although I don't have any of the rereleased versions to know if they are as great as the original.

I have never paid duty fees on kits from Japan. Unless your a secret agent, then I have never bought kits from Japan.

62 Catalina. Boy, I am seeing a little bias in my answers. Most of the kits AMT did through the 90s were pretty nice - some were quite awesome. The 66 Fairlanes mentioned above, the 58 Edsel and 57 Chrysler (muscle cars?). The one game changer (similar to Revell's T-bolt kits) was the 66 Chevy Nova. Still a great kit today. But I am still sticking with the Catalina. Oh wait, last ten years? Well, I get the rerelease version, which included stock and custom parts!

This depends. You get a greater depth of field with a smaller aperature (larger number) but, and this is important, lenses differ drastically in how sharp they are at different aperature settings. So, setting your camera to the smallest aperature will give you the greatest DOF, but, overall, the picture won't be a sharp as, say, f11. The great thing about digital is, you can shoot tons of photos and compare which are the best. And usually the camera will record all pertinent information so you can replicate the results. On my Canon SLR, I can shoot upto f22, but the pictures are sharper around f13. I shot the same photo at all the f stops, loaded them on the computer, zoomed in on a spot, and compared and that let me know where my lens was the sharpest.

All three new toolings from Revell are exciting - 50 Olds, 57 Ford, 62 Vette. So many possibilities with just those three! Moebius - they already cost me a bunch.

I'm with Ed on this one. Excellent all the way - except the missing cap on the battery. Really, this is one of the nicest models ever - Revell, AMT, et al...

Beautiful color. Wheels...I tend to use what I like. I am the one who will look at my models the most.

Big and beautiful. Nice job - looks like a nice clean, smooth build.

Cool Chuck. I love the look of those overhead cam Nissan power plants. Now take that S20 and put it back into a Skyline where it belongs. Oh, or maybe swap out the steel wheels for some Watanabes.

Welcome aboard.

That mesh link is really cool. Click on continue and you get a macro lens shot of he actual mesh. Only problem is $75 minimum order, and 8 square foot minimum. That's a lot, no, a lifetime of mesh!

Watch for head gaskets in the 2003 model. I am not sure if Subaru still had an issue after that, but from 1998 to 2003 head gaskets leaking are common.

Very cool. That kit is pretty nice - although can have some issues. It is pretty amazing detail, though, when you consider all the other kits made in the early 1970s.

Neat little build of a JAPANESE car.

Excellent job on both conversions! You had me at the Chevy, but adding the Ford, c'mon man! I'll be following along.

Looks great in white. Nice build.

Tamiya semi gloss black. If you can find it. Still low stock from relabeling.

That's pretty nice. Looks like he has some practice under his belt. What kind of AB system does he use? Must be feeding paints from a pressurized tank or something? Song is about the most annoying thing I have heard today, though.