Longbox55

The new Gen 5 engines also share the 4.400 bore spacing.

The 396 is only .094" bigger bore than the 327. Even the 427 and 454 are only .250"" larger. Nowhere near a 1/2" difference in bore. Also, the 400 smallblock has the same bore as the 402 bigblock.

Veedersburg is about 1/2 way between Danville and Speedway along Rt.136, and they were one of the other sources of brick for it. Those 3 companies were known worldwide for making the best paving bricks, with Western being considered the best overall. Rt. 136 was originally plotted as a route to bring brick directly to the track. A little OT, but Veedersburg has a very cool old salvage yard, Carters Salvage. They very rarely crush vintage iron, and make pretty good deals on the parts.

Many of the original bricks used came from Western Brick and Danville Brick, both of which were in my hometown of Danville, Illinois.

The Crew Chief Blazer also has a Hillborn style intake. The way it's laid out it looks more appropriate for a big block Chevy rather than a small block. though.

Technically, they're all conversions. GM never produced a factory built crew cab until '73. Any crew cab you see was done by an outside upfitter.

The Micheal's near me only does that with the Liquitex line of spray paints. All the rest of their spray paints are either on a regular rack or on a shelf. Nobody else has spray paint locked up, but they are supposed to check ID at the register. usually, they don't unless you look too young. I was only asked one time, that was at a Walmart, when the law was first put in place. I think I was 32 or 33 at the time.

https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/docs/gm-heritage-archive/vehicle-information-kits/Chevrolet-Trucks/1960-Chevrolet-Truck.pdf Everything you might need to know about the '60 Chevrolet truck and what was offered from the factory. Dimensions are on page 83.

Most likely based on the live action movie prop.

I do have the Phantom duallie as well, it's shown with the old style interior on the box, also in gray. It matches what is shown on the box. I did get my regular duallie pretty early in the production run, pretty much as soon as my local hobby shop got them in (I usually got first shot at any new releases). Mine must just be an oddball. Certainly wouldn't be the first time the box art didn't match the production kit, or the first time there was a change in the run.

Toyota Type A engine Chevrolet 1929-1936 engine. 1937-1953 Chevrolet 216

That's getting outside the realm of duallie pickups, though.

No, completely different engine. The Toyota A Type engine was loosely based on the 1929-1936 Chevrolet. The 216 found in the '37 Chevy kits and the '50 pickup and '51 kits didn't com out in the 1:1 until '37.

Aircraft stripper. Brake fluid might work fine on it, too. Stay away from any of the lye based degreasers, as it will eat the metal. Remove any plastic parts from the body first, as aircraft stripper will damage the plastic.

The engine from the old MPC '32 Chevrolet Cabriolet would be the proper one to use.

There were a few guys asking about that on Facebook a few days ago.

I actually do have a set of those in my parts stash, I'll have to see if I can remember where they are. I've worked with the 1:1 wheels, too, though it has been a long time. They're notorious for the centers breaking out of them.

Next one to the right and down from it, the Keystone Turbo III.

I was thinking more the one in the lower left corner.

Those can be any one of several similar wheels, Western Cyclone 2, Fenton Fan Jet 2, American Racing Hurricane, American Racing Vector, Keystone Turbo III. Just going from the spoke count, the look to be most likely the Keystone Turbo III.

That's the grille it came with. I did get it when the kit first came out, I have seen early production kits that are different from the box art before.

I have that one, very good book. It covers a bit more than just hot rods, there's some Kustom stuff in there, and even a little Stock Car racing history. Lots of pics of period cars, though there are some modern cars as well.

Built out of box, other than the Alcoa wheels. The interior is not painted. I will freely admit, the box does show it with the gray interior. Perhaps mine is factory error?

I stand corrected. I know that Ivo had consulted with Thompson on setting the Showboat up, maybe it was about the steering knuckles rather than the drive setup.

Technically, what you're doing is polishing. If you're going to go through the trouble of sanding it out to 12000, it's not really to much more work to go ahead and final polish it out with compound. TS8, being a solid color, you might be able to get sway with just sanding/polishing out the color, and not necessarily clearing it. However, what you can do is sand out the color as smooth as you can, then clear it, the sand out the clear. The better the base coats are, the less work you'll need to do with the final clear coats. As far as a difference between "clearcoat" and "glosscote", there really isn't one. Testors calls their basic line clear gloss "Glosscote" to differentiate it from their flat clear "Dullcote". Personally, as far as hobby clears, I do like Tamiya TS13 better than Testors, although their One Coat Wet Look is pretty good. while the hobby clears are good, I generally tend to use Duplicolor clears, either their Paint shop premix clear for airbrushing, or their Acrylic Lacquer clear for rattle can spraying. Both work well with hobby paints, get even better gloss results, and are by far much cheaper that the 3 oz (Testors) and 3.38 oz (Tamiya) hobby clears.