Longbox55

That's the 3rd generation Chevrolet inline 6, 194, 230, 250 cubic inch displacement, from the Trumpeter '63 Chevy Nova kit.

Michaels for sure will have the Fiskars. Mine is a Westcott, came from the local Menard's store in their office supply area. I don't recall what I paid for it.

I just did a little research on the original Eleanor. Seems that while the color is commonly thought to be Medium Yellow Gold, according to the producer, they were simply painted School Bus Yellow to save money. School Bus Yellow is available in Duplicolor at the parts stores.

1940 Chevrolet

Alcohol will take it off, too.

I'm going to throw this out there, all of the tips given are on target, however, there is one thing that should be mentioned. Before you remove all of the mold lines from a model car body, do some research on the actual car. I have seen a few cases where the body was molded in such a way that the mold seams actually are in places where the 1:1 has a similar seams. a case in point, the AMT '55 and '57 Chevrolet trucks. On those, there is a mold line that runs down from the bottom of the headlamp to the bottom of the fender. Most builders tend to file and sand it smooth. However, on the 1:1 truck, there actually is a seam in that location. It's from how the fender is stamped, and was not filled in any way as they come from the factory. In that case, the line on the kit only needs knocked down a little bit to make a convincing replica of the 1:1.

Tinnitus, I can relate to that. My Dad has it from working in the sheetmetal industry, lots of installations in local factories. I have it, too. Not as bad, but like Joe says, it's worse when there isn't any background noise. Mine is from working in a noisey auto repair shop, between the compressor running and the air tools, plus being around open exhaust hot rods and dirt cars all my life, I should count myself lucky I can hear at all.

Some paint stores do still do touch up size quantities, or at least the local DuPont and PPG dealers in my area do. I can't really speak for the Gone in 60 Seconds Mustangs (you don't specify which version of the movie, so not sure which color you need), but Citron Yella is available from Testors in their Model Master lacquer spray line. Should be able to get it at the hobby shop.

YES PLEASE!!! I would even be happy if they reissued it with both the 2 and 4 wheel drive parts in the box, like how they did it with the F350. Do the same with the Dodge truck kits, make it a trifecta!

The Revell '64/65 Chevy truck would be the easiest and most accurate currently available chassis. It would need shortened, or the suspension adapted to the Blazer kit frame. The coil suspension would be correct for a 2wd Blazer. Side not, for anyone doing a '69 conversion, the '69 Blazer was only offered as a 4x4, no 2wd option.

I'm going to have to correct myself. The piston trophy I spoke of did not come in the Nomad, it was in the '49 Mercury. I haven't rechecked the recent issue of it, but I'm thinking that the crank and pistons that Jim mentions must have been put back in for the last reissue, as they are not in the last few reissues before it.

If you're airbrushing it, check out Duplicolor Paint Shop clear. I've tested it on Testors enamels (both spray and bottle) as well as Tamiya acrylic. Even though it is a lacquer, it topcoats over those very well, no adverse reactions. I can't speak for other locations, but my local Meijer store has it on clearance, 50% off (about $12.50 a quart). Duplicolor also has an acrylic enamel spray that's very nice, I haven't tested it over Testors enamel yet, but I think it'll work fine as well.

I have one very similar to that. Works great for cutting sheet, though on thicker sheet, it more scores it than making a clean through cut.

I've seen it listed as all 3 sizes with that kit. On a side note, take a good look at the distributor. It only has terminals for 7 wires, not counting the coil.

For cement, I primarily use Tamiya, I have both their standard cement (orange bottle) and extra thin (green bottle) on hand. For super glues, I've been using both Loctite GO2 and Gorilla brands, depending on what plastic I'm working with. For filler, I use Bondo Professional Spot and Glazing putty, part #801. Any auto parts store should have it. It'll be the one with 2 tubes in it, putty and hardener. Off topic, but concerning your build. You're wanting to make a 2 door from a 4 door, and I take it you're trying for a replica stock build? You might do some research on the car before you start cutting. See if you can possibly fins a site with the dimensions and perhaps some good side views of it. Most cars do not necessarily have a different length/wheelbase for 2 and 4 doors. Usually, the 2 door will have longer doors, and perhaps a different roofline. You may only need to move the B pillar back, then rescribe the door lines.

I'm pretty sure this is set #1 in the M&H slicks.

The '78 Warlock came in Black, Bright Canyon Red, Medium Green Sunfire Metallic, Citron Green Metallic, and Sunrise Orange.

http://www.harborfreight.com/20-piece-spray-gun-cleaning-kit-99634.html Regardless of what brand or type of airbrush you have, having one of these sets handy is a very good idea.

I've never had any issues cleaning my V, I actually find it easier to clean than the H that was my first airbrush.

Paasche Model V. You can get them pretty reasonable at Hobby Lobby with the coupon. Or, if you're on a tighter budget, the double action airbrush from Harbor Freight isn't too bad.

http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk203/Longbox55/brake%20line%20diagram%20001_zpst7uv08co.jpg~original

Just to add a little to Bills excellent description of how the brake lines route; On most vehicles prior to '67, there will only be one line coming from the master cylinder, rather than 2 like later vehicles. There are variations on how the lines are routed and split, but usually, there's a "T" that splits it front/back, then it's further spit side to side. Here's a diagram that might help. It's for a Chevrolet truck, but most under floor single circuit brake systems are similar.

The AMT '55 Nomad used to have a piston and rod trophy in it, It think it's been removed from more recent issues. If I'm remembering it correctly, I think the MPC Garlitz Swamp Rat, and its assorted reissues (American Grafitti) have cranks in them as well. With the Parts Packs, the Chevrolet and Pontiac kit has cranks and cams for sure, and I'm pretty sure there's a crank and cam for Hemi in the Hemi/Corvair kit. Tose engines also include flywheels. In addition to the internal details on the Revell Tri-5s, the Hemi in the Miss Deal kit has similar details, and also includes separate rocker shafts for the heads. The Hemi Hydro boat has the same engine, but minus the rocker shafts. The Roth Outlaw, Beatnick Bandit, and Tweety Pie also have similar detailing. The AMT '66 Nova has a very nice bare 350 4 bolt main small block with engine stand. Both version of it have the engine. It does need some minor work to be perfect (cylinder bores). The above mentioned AMT crankshafts fit it very nicely. if you wanted to do a block with crank installed.

I don't know if it's something Hobbico does for any hobby shop, or if it's a special case considering the company connection with Slot & Wing. I do know that they've been doing it for a long time, before Hobbico bought out R-M. The also do it with most of the other kit brands out there, too, not just R-M.