comp1839

i'll bet someone is ear to ear smiles!!!!!

i do not own or use a cnc. i did use the bridgeport to remove large chunks, you could easily do that with a good band saw. much of the work was done with a die grinder and some good carbides. i literally made a left and right side profile of the body on self adhesive art paper printed on a regular HP printer. pieced it together, roughed it in, and started grinding away. MAKE SURE TO WEAR A RESPIRATOR OR MASK OF SOME SORT! you will make ALOT of DUST. heavy sand paper(80 grit for roughing) and sanding boards will also be needed. you can also make small chunks of the body and glue it together. stuff glues really well.

john, no problem....glad you're hangin' out!! tyrone, like john, tim , chris, paul...etc. you too are an inspiration for all here!! dave, glad i could make a work week start out well. well, the front is done steering is complete, wheels are on......DONE! an inspirational shot........ i need to get this done.

sweet mother of mercy............

i have used ren-shape. great stuff to work with. while it's soft enough to sand an file by hand it's dense enough to machine. the stuff i use is 440. here's a project i started a while back but never really finished. '41 willy's pro mod. 1-8 scale.

while searching the internet for info, i found this crazy good site. look under "race coverage" for all of the pics here. these are not old pics. it's new coverage of nostalgia drag events. http://www.nostalgiadragworld.com/index.php

paul,....... STUNNING!!!!!!

dave, i love this build. great work on the gauges!! keep up the good work.

joe, pics below. hope you like 'em. tim, thanks buddy. paul's correct. the tools are a spin index and a 3" chuck w/ internal jaws on a 5 c arbor. paul, it is a very versatile tool. the video would have to be pretty intense to show all of it's attributes. be happy to show you some time. i left .005"-.006" per side for clearance. the sheet is .040". the male die is 1.600 on the o.d., the female die is 1.690" on the i.d. i am by no means an expert at making pressing dies. they should have been steel. i didn't have any steel laying around so, i made do with what i had. i have a little knowledge from a friend of mine who was a tool and die maker ( he was also my mentor) he helped me make some dies for pressing the intake runners for my 1:1 intake manifolds. so, i'm probably more dangerous than anything, hehe. so, here are the results. i filed the edges around some of the corner bolt holes a little thin. i can live with it. all of the holes from the cover line up correctly to the bell housing. .

the ONLY car i regret selling!

this is the set up i will use to produce the bolt pattern in the can and then replicate it in the cover. any questions .......just ask.

i needed a cover for the clutch can openings so, i decided to make a pair of dies to form the aluminum into the shape i needed rather than try to machine them. if you want a better explanation just ask and i will give you the full tilt deal. short story...... made dies from some scrap i had laying around. pressed aluminum. cut out the basic shape of cover.

i'm probably not your best source of info on 1/25 parts Sam. that being said, i'd recommend starting out with one of the pro sportsman or pro stock kits that are out there (at least if you're interested in carbs and nitrous). you can probably use one of those chassis too.

i've been working on the steering and finished the rack. the steering shaft, the steering wheel and the quick disconnect for the wheel. fabbed and decaled the carbon fiber interior panels. i'm waiting for some parts to finish putting the panels on. and i did some wing support work.

I'll bet!!!!!!!

sorry for the delay guys. dave, thanks! tim, there's nothing like a little model porn to stir the soul. no prob on the chassis stuff. you know i don't have any secrets. leonard, thanks buddy. i can say the same about your work. dave, glad you like the shot. the wheel base is 34.75" . when it goes on the shelf, it'll take up 43" of space........unless i put a wheelie bar on it. samuel, welcome aboard. i do have some tips.... 1) build what you love, love what you build. 2) don't be afraid to ask questions. 3) no matter how good you think it is.......there is always room for improvement. i hope you'll post your chevelle here in the drag section. i do happen to love pro mods. there are at LEAST a half a dozen guys on here who i know can give you some pointers. maybe they'll chime in with there support. chris, every time i do a mock up like this. i hate to break it down to do any more work to it. hehe. i will have some small updates this week end.

i believe 1501 (3/8" 1:1) or 1503 (1/2' 1:1) would be the sizes you need.

chris, the details are simply knocking me out!!!! incredible man........rust in the headers.......what an eye!!!!!!!

sweet, sweet stuff there paul. the carbon look on the body would just knock this out of the park.......LOVE IT!!!!!!

looks awesome tim!! outstanding work as always. i keep seeing comments on raising the height of the bar.........throw the bar away...........i'll need a catapult to clear it!!!!!!

are you looking to be accurate in sizing with the rod ends you want to install? or are you just looking for close?

john, thanks so much, kind sir! tim, thanks. i wanted to do the welds on the chassis with the weld decals from archer but, it would take alot of time i just don't have at present so, the chassis was painted tamiya gun metal. some flat black was airbrushed at the joints and willy nilly on the chassis. then i took silver paint and highlighted the joint. it's an attempt to make the chassis look like bare chromoly. it was something i think i've seen either clay or davey do in the past. dave, many thanks! love the willys by the way. hey chris, always glad to hear you like it!!! the process is above (although i don't think i did it much justice) paul, thanks and i did hollow out the throat of the scoop enough to put a foam/ carbon fibre scoop plug in it. i started with a 1/2" end mill and finished with the die grinder i use for porting cylinder heads. it's not perfect but, i planned on covering the hole. scott, thank you. scoop shot. side view mock up. rear 3/4 view.

sweeeeet! how about a "zoom in " on those bottles?

really clean and well done dave!! looks like you're having fun!

the detail, on the printed parts, is amazing paul. great job on drawing them up. the floater is looking very good as well. will the spindle and the hub be machined as well as the rotor or will the spindle and the hub be printed? the brakes look super on the wheel and the frame is really looking sharp. keep up the fantastic job. this is REALLY going to be a nice pro mod when you are done!!