comp1839

john, thanks for bringing your bike over here. i just love this thing. incredible bike with incredible history. i'd say you're knocking this outa'da park but, that's an understatement.

so, the candy box finally arrived and boy is it sweet. chris sobak modeled up some throttle arms and accelerator pump linkage as well as those clutch arms for the dual disc clutch. i'm a little to busy right now to work on the dragster BUT, as soon as i get a break i will get these babies selected and connected. a double big THANKS to chris!!!!

looks beautiful tim. can't wait to see the next set of pictures!!!!

brian, great to see more 1/8 drag cars being built. great job on the valve covers and pulleys. i see by the valve covers you have access to a c.n.c. something that would totally cool would be seeing someone with c.n.c. talent actually do a 5.3 bore space billet block and cyl. heads. i've done profiles on my hand mill but, to see someone duplicate the art work on a billet block and heads would be phenomenal. like this. good luck on your upcoming project. it'll be cool to watch!!!!!

chris, i called the candy company and asked for a 1 lb. bag of their sweetest eye candy. i can't wait!!!!!! thanks buddy.

bruce, thanks. mike, thanks too. i'm hoping to get back on it in a bit. there are some things in the pipeline that'll be arriving soon.

great to see you buddy!!! you just had to pick a pink car didn't you? hehe.

great idea tim!

thanks for that info bob. i never thought about the number of parts on just this part alone..........makes it even more incredible........now my brain hurts.

found another shot i took in the the shop. an older firebird pro stock car. it shows the front clip tubing in the "c" shaped brackets.

bill's first comment is spot on. " As is often the case with model cars, the best way to do this is like you'd do it on a real one." so here is some real stuff. here's a shot of jason lines car (i did not take this photo, i found it on the internet.) the red circles show the attaching points. the forward part of the front end is supported by a tubing frame work that slips into some "c" shaped catches on the lower frame rail. the ones you see on lines car are bolt on titainium. the back is attached with dzus buttons (lower backside of the front fender and across the cowl / windsheild area. this is a photo i took of jason lines car in 2013, when they still had scoops. you can see some of the support tubing in the front end. here's one from the race shop of a cobalt pro stock front end the support tubing is a little clearer. hope this helps.

wow tim!! you must need to rest your eyes for days after doing work like this. unbelievable detail at this scale. WELL DONE!!!!!!!!!!

what level of accuracy are you looking to attain? in other words, are looking to make an accurate replica or are you just looking to make the front end go on and off?

use google . it's a 1:1 car.

ron, before you stretch the body UN-neccissarily, you may want to check out photos from frank pompilio's '68 10.5 mustang. it may help.

i was all pleased with myself, that i got my tailights put in today.......then i saw this. so, now me and sailor jerry are gonna get up close and personal!!! ABSOLUTELY BEAUTIFUL, TIM!!!!!! man, that is impressive.

these "jap" cars, as you so eloquently say, each make more "muscle" than you have ever owned in your entire life......period. if they got more "muscle " why shouldn't they be muscle cars if they want? you guys act like you own the words "muscle car". jesus, you all can't even agree on the definition.

sweet! nice slice. i think you're going down the right path here tim. like the idea of no scoop. at least that's my opinion.

glad to help.

try googling "slot car wheels". a company called pro trac makes a very convincing looking aluma star copy. there are many other companies too. since i don't deal with 1/24 or 1/25 i can't speak to there quality. at least you have a lead to go on now.

fronts are weld aluma star spindle mounts.

yeah, tuners w/ fart pipes........ 5.77 @ 247 in the 1/4 mile 5.50 @ 277 in the 1/4 mile

looks great ron. loving the added details. if you'd like a suggestion, you might try a couple of coats using a filler primer. a little wet sanding and you can lessen or remove those printing lines on your parts. i use dupli-color from the local pepboys. keep up the great work!

looks really clean. nice job.

looks really clean. nice job.