comp1839

i would also like to say THANK YOU to the LIARS club. my wife and i had an incredably good time. the facility was very nice, the models were super,and the people were OUTSTANDING!!!!!! i can't say enough how pleasant the experience was. i've been to some bigger shows and i can't say the experience was a nice one. thank you to the LIARS club and all the people who were there! great job guys(and gals)!!!!!

sorry for the typo.

the answer to the saftey question is, yes. ALL cars must conform to current saftey standards for that class to compete i.e, blower bags, trans blankets, bottom end containment devices(diaper or trays), driver saftey equipmet, etc.. cacklefest cars do not fall under competiton regulations, as they do not compete. spectators were seriously injured, even killed. still happens today. like the wheel at pheonix.

exceptionally clean build. very well done!

looks like a great start. how about some details?

you're welcome. glad i could help.

go back to your photobucket. click on the pic you want. to the left of the pic is a box. go to where it says IMG Code. right click and copy the IMG Code. come back here and hit paste.

as far as i know, in 1/12 scale. if you are going to try to build an even marginally accurrate present day pro mod car. you will need to hone your scratch building skills. how accurrate you want the car to be, will determine how much "honing" you will need to do. i am going to be starting a 1/8 pro mod car in the very near future. i plan on this car taking at least 1 year to build. totally scratch built cars are slow and tedious builds but, the end results and the personal satisfaction of completing a build like this, are WORTH EVERY SECOND.

i built a couple 1/12 cars but, like my 1/8 stuff, i made all my parts. essentially just used the bodies. here's my photobucket. maybe you'll see something that inspires you. http://s243.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/comp1839/

yes. 1/16 scale parts will look too small on a 1/12 car. there is a 25% difference in size.....unless of course you're building zingers.

very cool. now all you need is to scratch a dragster chassis for it to sit in.

didn't want you to think no one was responding. i wish i could help, unfortunately i have no idea where to buy 1/16 parts.

looks great derrick. top shelf work!

that's just beyond incredable, bill!! that's awfully impressive work you do.

tim, looks incredable!!!! you guys have certainly outdone yourselves. the motor, the interior, the chassis, wheels and tires. just amazing work. the tin work really helps finish it off!

richard, quite often you can find smaller chunks of it for sale on ebay.

richard, thanks for the nice words on my work. i'm always glad to hear that something i've done has helped someone out. the product i am using to machine some of my work from, is called ren-shape. it is a machinable modelling foam. it comes in different densities, depending on how you are working it. the softer stuff works really well by hand. it holds it dimensions very well. is easily sanded, primed and then painted. some day i may try some aluminum casting, just because that would be very cool. the donovan masters were sent to a resin caster on another board that i belong to.

very cool al! i'll have to add a holding fixture like you're using on the side of your table. 360 degrees of rotation with horizontal and vertical. awesome. sometimes the simplest stuff is the coolest.

joe, i buy it from a company called Mcmaster Carr. it's 5"o.d. x 1"i.d. x 6" long. it'll set you back about $35.00. romell, glad to hear you've bought some equipment. i don't think you'll regret it.

outstanding!!

i do now, tim! looks great in there. i have a surprise for you then. they finally fixed the printer at work.

that's really wild tim! completely outrageous!!!!!! can't wait to see it in person.

steve, glad to see another 1:8 builder. you stuff sounds very cool. can't wait to see some pics. i for one love to see in progress work so, don't be afraid to post.

when i display my models. i use a little more low key approach to it. i have a paper with a brief explanation about the car. i try to let the model itself draw the attention. i try to use exciting subject matter (at least to me) and i try to accurately detail the heck out of it. i am starting to believe the signs are worthless, though. even though the signs state these cars are scratch built. i still hear that i've used r.c. parts or they're diecasts(which i think is kind of a compliment)but, none the less. most people don't read. it's like the really big "please do not touch the model" sign to the right of the altered. there must be about 10 finger prints on the body. so much for public education.