MrObsessive

Excellent work so far Jeff! You're doing better than I did with that setup as everytime I tried something like that..............later it broke!

It's a good feelin' ain't it?? That looks great!!.............And this is comin' from someone that spends a LOT of time to make sure I don't have to do a paint job twice.............I should get so lucky! Keep us posted on the progress!

I'm definitely gonna watch this one as I love this car!! 8) Keep us posted!

Oooooh that's nice Miguel! 8) I have to try my hand at a rally car sometime! It's the decals that'll kill me though.........

Thanks for the link Matt!! I definitely bookmarked that one!

YES!! That definitely fills those wheelwells up the way it should! 8) I've always thought that wheel choice and stance can make or break a model................it's one of the first things I notice when I see a model on display at a show for instance. :wink:

Thanks all you guys for all the nice and helpful comments! I'll try to get this all done by Friday evening, so keep an eye on the "Under Glass" section for pics. There's only a few more things to do, but working third shift can take its toll on any building during the daytime!

Hey Kenny, is that a full kit you're gonna be offerin' or just the body? I've always liked 1:1 Vega's save for the dubious engine.............they ran well with a small block V-8 Chevy though!

Ahhhhh, I've always like those 240's........but they've all but disappeared here in the states! I almost bought one new ('89?) but the price was a little rich for my blood back then............around $15,000 or so! :shock: Keep us posted on this one!

Yeah, I didn't realize I coulda did that until after the decal was off the backing! :oops: It's been a long time since I used dashboard decals! :mrgreen:

The interior is the next and last major thing to do. I started with flocking the floor..........I like to do this square by square as the paint dries kinda fast. I used Tamiya flat black as a base (water based acrylic). The dash was next on the agenda. Revell's instructions tell you to put the clear lens in place and then put the decal on the clear lens. This doesn't make sense because the adhesive is on the wrong side............ What I did was dip the decal in water as usual, but then laid the decal on the lens and then brushed it with Tamiya clear X-22. This helped flatten out the decal and also made it adhere to the lens without any distortion. The seats, dash, side panels, and console, were painted with Testors Acryl Aircraft Black. Today's black interiors are not a pure black, but kind of a charcoal color. This stuff is great to get that effect! Well guys and gals that'll be the last update.............It's the little details that need done now, painting the window trim and headliner, putting in the head and taillights, etc........ Keep an eye on the "Under Glass" column as I'm gonna try to get this one done before next Saturday (meeting day). :wink: Stay tuned!

Thanks for that Bob! I just picked up two bottles.................it can't hurt to at least try it out. I'm gonna try to see if it'll work on resin also for pinholes. 8)

Nice!! I can just here the rumble from that exhaust!!

I have that kit Billy......and while it is very nice, my only disappointment are those funky wheels Revell chose to model. They must've been on the prototype, because I have yet to see any Viper on the street or in the mags that has those wheels on it. I've even checked eBay Motors! :shock: When I build mine (Lord knows when that'll be!) I'm going to put mags on it with the same low profile tires. Thanks for the review!

Both look terrific, but I especially like the green one!! :mrgreen:

Ken, I airbrushed the Future right onto the bare plastic..............you don't have to thin it since it is quite thin right out of the bottle. I like to wait a couple hours or maybe overnight for it to dry and then take 600 grit sandpaper and very lightly sand out any airbubbles that might form. Steve, I've not tried Tamiya's paints over Future.....all the paints I have used were acrylic enamels, such as Dupont. Here's a couple pics of a '55 T-Bird I built back in '99............this was Monogram's '56 I converted to a '55 and molded in that terrible red plastic! Looking at the car, you'd find it hard to believe it was molded in that color. I shot the Future on the bare plastic first and then primered it. Like anything..............I would test it on something scrap to see how it'll react. Hope this helps! P.S. I ran across this website about how a military guy uses Future.......I think you'll find it interesting------ click HERE to check it out!

Hi Bob! Yes, I've handled the body a LOT since the paint has cured......not to mention the hours rubbing out the clearcoat to get the finish you see-----and the paint has not rubbed off the Future. I highly recommend it to anyone who may not be familiar (or doesn't want the trouble) of mixing up BIN to seal Revell's newest plastic. This is especially needed if you're going to use automotive paint as I used here. Another thing about Future is that it will seal the plastic from bleed through when painting over that stupid molded in yellow or red plastic. :x And if you're doing some bodywork you want to seal..........this stuff's great too! The military guys have been using it for years! It also makes great water for dioramas! :wink:

Welcome aboard Chad! A few thoughts about what I use to build........ Glue: I too use liquid cement where applicable..........My favorite is Ambroid Pro Weld since it's shelf life is limitless, and doesn't seem to evaporate over time like others. I try to stay away from tube cement as much as possible-----especially from attaching bodywork, due to the tube cement can still be "active" even many years after you've built the part. Meaning the tube cement can still eat away at the part long after it's glued. 5 min. epoxies I use on attaching bodywork simply because the properties of the epoxy won't ruin a paint job and can be cleaned up (carefully!) with alcohol. Fillers: I use products such as Tamiya putties for small jobs........to a product called "Dynatron Putty-Cote" for larger body work areas. I personally will not use any putty from Squadron as the shrinkage is horrendous and makes more work than is needed. I like to use things that are as much drama free as possible and take the least amount of effort to make the bodywork come out well. As others have mentioned, try to concentrate on one area at a time. Maybe the first model out after a long time-------focus on getting the basics down. Getting rid of mold lines, eliminating flash, and filling sink marks are some of the basics. Your next model maybe focus on getting that really nice paint job that you've been after. All in all it will take practice, practice, PRACTICE!! You won't learn everything in one model........it will take time. You've come to the right place for any questions-----so don't be shy if you run into a roadblock!

Wow! You sure work fast!! Wish I had the time to get even my 1/24's done that quick! That's lookin' great and soooo realistic!

This week I needed to focus on the wheels...............the stance problem was killing me as I've heard others complain about it, so I figured I might as well get started. I first stripped all the wheels with Easy-Off (Yellow can!!) which took off all the chrome and the undercoat they use to plate at the model companies. The wheels I used are the custom wheels out of Revell's '59 Corvette kit. These I thought most closely replicate the "Bullitt" wheels I wanted for this Mustang.....................Wheels Revell should've included in the kit! I could've left the chrome alone...............but that would have been just too bright for my tastes and 1:1 2005 Mustangs don't really have super shiny wheels to begin with. At least for this wheel type. After the chrome was stripped I sprayed a coat of Alclad's black lacquer on each of the wheels. The trick here is to get a very smooth coat on each wheel to achieve the desired effect of the final chrome spray. The smoother the undercoat, the better (and more realistic) finish you'll have. As you can see here, only a few mist coats are needed to get the results as shown. Don't overdo it..............or you'll get a flat aluminum look to your wheels. After the chrome was dried sufficiently, I brush painted with Tamiya Gunmetal acrylic the spokes as shown here. Once again careful painting and a steady hand is needed so as to not run the paint on the surrounding rim. The wheels were then shoehorned into the kit tires...........one thing I noticed is that the wheels are actually two different sizes for front and rear. Once mounted though the difference is negligible. When I originally was dry fitting the wheels, they seem to stick out too far from the wheelwells of the car...........a fix was in order! Note the superglue I had to put around the bead of the wheels to keep them in place........ I got out the dremel tool and ground away at the wheel center to get rid of that offset.......this cured the problem of them sticking out too far. I used the metal "pins" that were in the kit and tried to center them in the wheels as much as possible.................these were then epoxied into place. Okay! Here is the result of all the work! Not my usual "studio shot"......(I'll save that for when the model is totally done) just wanted to get a glimpse of how the model should sit once everything is said and done. I did tweak the front and rear suspension by shaving 1/32" or so of plastic off the front springs and then bending (carefully!) the front suspension arms to ensure straightness. The rear didn't need much work........just shaved the springs for the rear slightly to get it to sit lower. Side profile................Yes I will get back to the '55 Ford in the background sometime! So far so good from all angles.......the proof of the pudding will be once I get the interior in and the other fittings such as headlights, etc...... One caveat about using Alcad...............I did notice some rubbing off of the chrome when trying to get the wheels into the tires. Interesting, because years ago this stuff was bulletproof, but then disappeared from the market for awhile. Seems as though when it returned the formula was changed or something. :? Anyway, a lot of care needs to be used when trying Alclad, and no, I would NOT recommend clearcoating the chrome (or any other of their finishes) as it will reduce the effect of the color. The weekend's here so now I can concentrate on the interior..........hopefully I can get this all done in time for next weekend's MAMA Christmas party. :wink: Thanks for lookin' and stay tuned!

Now that's GORGEOUS!! Hmmmm..........I think you'll see some of those styling cues turn up on the next restyle of the Mustang, said to be coming in '09 or so. :wink: I too don't think those doors will ever see the light of day............the safety Nazi's would have apoplexy! :x I would like to see the American manufacturers in general get more daring with windshield shapes.............maybe wrap the glass higher into the roofline ala the Opel Astra Panarama roofed car sold in Europe.

You don't say what brand of paint you used................if you used a "silver" paint enamel primer, paint doesn't like to stick to that very well. I strongly recommend a automotive type primer (sandable) for your base coat. Also, scuffing up the plastic with 600 grit sandpaper helps as it gives the surface some "teeth" to bite into. DON'T use household masking tape for any paint job!! This will only make a mess and has enough adhesive to tow a car! I use Tamiya masking tape which is a low tack for two tone paint jobs or stripes............I then cover up the remainder with parafilm which is a little difficult to find these days.

Awww come on Jeff!! What is it?? You're killin' me! Nicely done headers and bolts! 8)

NICE!! That kit just never grows old!

Very Nice Pat!! I just picked that kit yesterday at our club meeting and it's pretty well done for what's just a "concept". If I ever get around to building mine, I'm thinking "Hugger Orange" with a broad white stripe down the center of the hood and trunk!