MrObsessive

NICE!! That kit just never grows old!

Very Nice Pat!! I just picked that kit yesterday at our club meeting and it's pretty well done for what's just a "concept". If I ever get around to building mine, I'm thinking "Hugger Orange" with a broad white stripe down the center of the hood and trunk!

That's comin' along sooooo nice MJ! I'm tempted to try something similar to a '68-72 Cutlass body someday........442 wagon anyone??

I just picked up my kit today at our club meeting. Very nice kit overall............my only complaint is that in my kit, the spokes on the wheels have those annoying sink marks in them! Oh well, guess it's time to get out the putty or Mr. Surfacer.......:wink: The body is spot on as Craig described, but the rest of the details are okay..................not Tamiya like in definition, but should build up into a very nice replica of the show car.

I was doing some cleaning up on the 'puter's hardrive and I forgot I had this clip! This is really comical is it's a parody of the old "Bullitt" movie. It takes a bit to load so be patient...............it's worth seeing! Just click HERE to check it out........ You might want to save it to your hard disk as it's worth keeping! 8)

Looks GREAT so far and I love the stripes!!

Looks great Bobby! ..............and your BMF looks equally as great to me! 8)

I like it a lot better in that blue also Ken! 8) A comment about the clear:.......Which brand are you using? I've used the Tamiya X-22 clear (acrylic) with no trouble at all. One nice thing about the clear is that if you screw it up........you can just take some Windex and wash it off and start over. The downside is it's loooooong drying time which can be cured by putting it in a dehydrator.

Hmmmm..............I keep seeing those '59 Dodges turn up on the 'Bay.......Is that Okey selling 'em on there? I see at least a couple a week show up.

That truck is a Knockout!! Very, very nice!!

Wow! I see we have another "Obsessive One" here on the board! Great job opening the doors and trunk! 8) You used sowing thread?? I tried that one time but could never get a good grasp on the model for it to work well.

Thanks for the review Craig! This is turning out to be one of my favorite cars/concepts of the decade so far....................can't wait till the real deal shows up for '09! I have a ton 'o pics of the interior if you need them (also some super secret CAD drawings of the chassis ...........SHHHHH!!). If you need them PM me and I'll send them to you.

Hey, I like that color! Very nice and understated for a muscle car instead of the usual reds and oranges. I'm curious to see your chassis work as I've heard from others it can be a bit fiddly..........just to give you a heads up. :wink: Keep us posted!

Nice model Bobby! Those were neat little cars and I don't know why Honda ever quick making those! Unfortunately I was always too big to fit in one...........

I'd say at least 20-25 PSI for both.........it'll depend on the type of airbrush you're using and viscosity of the paint. With Future however I highly recommend when airbrushing, you make fairly quick passes as it tends to run if you're not careful.

Wow! I've got to get me a set of those!! 8) They would look sooooooo nice under a '67 Shelby I have planned down the road!

Brian, there are a few things I can tell you about Tamiya and there clears since I've used them from time to time on interiors and such. First, Tamiya makes a very nice dullcoat which you can mix in with their paint. You can make a semi gloss sheen all the way to something totally flat. As Bob mentioned, you can use Testor's dullcoat.......but I would put on very light coats at a time. You can airbrush Tamiya's clear over their acrylics, but I would highly recommend thoroughly drying their paints in a dehydrator before doing so. (About 8 hours) Failure to do this will result in cracking of the paint underneath and the clearcoat and you will not be a happy camper! While some have used plain alcohol in thinning their paint............I have always had trouble with the paint "fisheyeing". I would recommend using their thinner as I've had no problem with it at all. When using thinner in their clear be careful not to use too much as it can fisheye when airbrushing. (See my Mustang thread) I have found that using a bit higher pressure with the compressor helps atomize it a bit better. Hope this helps Brian and post pics of the results!

I got the body all rubbed out since clearocating it with Tamiya Clear X-22. I wet sanded with Detail Masters polishing cloths (3200-12,000 grit) and did the final polishing with Meguiar's Car Cleaner Wax. One thing I found out is that you can't put too much of their thinner in the paint as it can actually cause fisheyes. I noticed this when I started to paint the one side.................I didn't like how it was turning out, so I stripped it with Windex, and started over. Look at that reflection! One nice thing about Tamiya clear is how rock hard it dries and how it can also be wet sanded just like regular paint. I use this type of clear coat mainly because most clears out there are just too "hot". There's nothing more frustrating than to get all the way to having a great paint job, only to have to start over again because of clear ruining the paint! This is simple to strip if things get out of hand and clean up of the airbrush and jar is easy. Later after the interior and chassis are done, I'll take some BMF and mask off the areas I want to paint black, such as the window and door sill trim. Now I'm off to eat some fried turkey!! Thanks for lookin' and stay tuned!

The same to you Miguel!!

Without seeing pics it's hard to picture what happened. Sounds as though the Model Strip reacted with the Tamiya paint in some way and then reacted with the plastic. I would sand the body down throughly with 400 grit sandpaper to get rid of the roughness, followed by 600 grit and wash the body throroughly! Then I would primer the body (I recommend this no matter what paint you use) and then after the primer has dried thoroughly (I give mine about 3 days), color coat per normal. One good idea when using decals on unfamiliar paint, is to test the decal............if you have some extras on the sheet..............on a scrap painted surface. Some decals just don't do well with all paints. This can save a lot of headache, (and heartache ) down the road!

Nice Cobra Darin! Those wires look verrrrrrrry familiar! Are they the Detail Masters Borrani's? Interesting note about the Cobra's...............I didn't know they were making the 289's again after 427 production had stopped.

Absolutely stunning work!!

Beautiful job so far!! I like how you did the sunroof.......very realistic! 8)

Welcome Aboard! For only having been building for 7 months, you're off to a pretty ambitious start! 8) I wish I could have been that far along at that point. Those resin mods look pretty cool.......keep us posted!