MrObsessive

Very, very nice work on those carb stacks!! Uh oh...............you're makin' me wanna break my kit out........as if I don't have enough projects to do!

Excellent job so far Bill!! I have this kit also (bought it at Toledo a couple years ago) but I just haven't had the nerve to tackle it yet. I'll be following this one too as it's one of my favorite road racers of the '60's! 8)

Zeb, I can't think of any one particular company offhand that has what you may need...............however click here to see if there are any that may be of interest. I found this quite helpful to check out different things that are out there in the model world ......................in fact that's how I found out about Paintscratch touch up paints. Kudos to Dave Lindsay for putting this list together! 8) Hope this helps!

Zeb, IIRC the guy who ran Lets Get Small passed away a few years ago. The name George Zurowski comes to mind...........maybe someone else out there can confirm this..... I don't know if someone else took over the business or not. :?

WOW! What a killer motor that looks to have! :shock: Should be pretty impressive when done! I have a couple of "rescues" I need to do.............so many projects.......so little time.....:wink:

Top notch work James! 8) I've never seen that color before................it looks first rate on that Mopar!

The pics that are shown Len don't have the clearcoat on it yet.....................I just did that last night and I'll post pics sometime this weekend after I get everything rubbed out. I've never had trouble with Tamiya clear...............the key is to have high enough pressure in your airbrush, (about 20 PSI) and then to use their thinner. I've used plain alcohol in the past, and had nothing but trouble for some reason. You have to make quick passes...................I use the largest tip in my Badger Crescendo and then let it set up for about 1/2 hour, then I put it in the dehydrator for about 8 hours. It can be daunting to some who've never used it before, but it gives an excellent shine when rubbed out and it dries rock hard. If you can find my '59 Buick thread, I also cleared that with Tamiya with no trouble. :wink:

Thanks for the pics Billy! Too bad I couldn't have made it this year.

Bob Downie!! Pick up the white courtesy phone!!

Gray, you usually can find it at any auto paint supplier shop. There are a couple places in town here that carry it.........but I had to call around so it wouldn't be an endless search. I actually still had an OLD bottle of it from years ago, but it was kinda thick and I didn't quite trust it. :shock:

Okay, today since it was so rainy and crappy outside.........I decided to bite the bullet and paint on the stripes. Now mind you, I haven't done this in ten years since I built a '65 Shelby GT-350R! I was never good at measuring off this and marking off that..........so I eyeball engineered where the stripes would go and went from there. The yellowish tape you see is Tamiya tape which is absolutely FANTASTIC! I've used it before for masking off two tones and it never has caused me any trouble ever! 8) The clear film you see is another good thing to have which is hard to find called "Parafilm". Laboratories use it to seal beakers............and it is very difficult to find unless you get it from Micromark.com The center "spine" of the stripe was cut using a metal straight edge and an exacto blade. I used Krylon White to give the brightest stripes possible. One nice thing about Krylon White is that it will NOT yellow over time.......and the pigments are tight enough to cover even black paint! 8) I let the body sit in the dehydrator for about an hour......then peeled off the masking. I don't like masking to stay on but so long for fear of "imprinting" itself in the paint due to the heat of the dehydrator. Not to mention getting tape residue which is annoying to remove. :shock: I'll take the polishing cloths and sharpen up the edges a smidge.........then the last step is clearcoat.....................but not today as I want the stripes to get the dehydrator treatment for a good 6 hours or so. I originally thought about painting the interior parchment, but I'm going to paint it charcoal black instead. With the white stripes there would be too much "brightness" with that color interior.............I think the black interior would contrast better. So I'll clearcoat tomorrow................then let the body sit once more in the dehydrator..........then I can work on the rest while everything is drying......... Thanks for lookin' and stay tuned! :wink:

Now that turned out nice!!8) What primer and color did you use? Did you have to use an etching primer since it was a diecast?

I'm sorry for your loss man....... That is a very sharp color! Your cousin would have liked it!

Nice job on the Lotus! I like how you did the exhaust..................nice touch! 8)

Sharp 'Stang Brian! I was tempted to try spraying the body without the Future......but I was hearing too many horror stories about Revell's new plastic! It could be they went back to the old stuff midstream?

Here's what I've accomplished so far this week.................It's been a interesting week as I've had to do some techniques I haven't tried for a while such as using the Future to guard against crazing. Here's what we have so far.................... I primered the body using Rustoleum Automotive Primer. This is good stuff as I have used it in the past with no trouble..........and it dries reasonably fast. The color I chose for the Mustang is 2005 Ford Sonic Blue. This was mixed at a auto paint supplier in a spray can.........I then loaded it in the airbrush jar and sprayed away! The paint went on very easily with no problems. Since this is a metallic..........I had to spray in kind of a Zig-Zag pattern to avoid "zebra stripes". Here's the can of paint I used. The paint has a built in spray pattern.....................but I never trust spray cans no matter who makes them! :x Here's the wheels I intend to use...................they are out of the reissued Revell '69 Shelby kit. I just don't care for the wheels Revell chose to tool up for the current Mustang kit. I was hoping that they would have at least included the "Bullit" type wheels. This is about the stance I want the car to have when it's all said and done. Some minor surgery will be needed to make the suspension sit a trifle lower. IMO, I think the car sits just a bit too high right out of the box. Pretty much a industry standard in 1:1................a unit body car should show a bit of overspray on the chassis as the robots can't quite reach all the way underneath the car! To add a little extra insurance against paint incompatibility...................I like to put a couple drops of this stuff in the airbrush jar. There's nothing more irritating than a couple of fisheyes to ruin an otherwise good paint job! :x The next step is whether or not to add over the top stripes..........that's something I haven't done in YEARS!! Then, clearcoat the whole works in my 'ol trusty Tamiya X-22. While the body is drying.............I can be working on the engine, and interior. Hmmm..............to stripe or not to stripe......that is the question.............:?: Thanks for lookin' and stay tuned!

My poor Mom and Dad tried and tried to get me into models as a little kid..............but I flat out rejected them because they reminded me of a puzzle which I HATED!! I got my first model on Christmas '68 and when I first opened the box, I remember being very disappointed because it didn't look all nice and pretty like the box art. I wanted to play with the Hot Wheels instead! (Which were a new item in 1968.) It would be another 10 years when I was a senior in high school before I would touch a model and of course you know the rest of the story........................I haven't stopped since! Although I still hate puzzles! :shock:

Welcome Efrain! Love the detail on the 289! 8)

Terry, how 'bout the motor out of one of those tiny Zip-Zap RC cars? Some of the nicer hobby shops sell the motors separately. Or just buy a used one off the 'Bay and take it apart? :wink:

The paint stands are Tamiya's...............they are really great for holding things in place! Here's the link for the stands.......... http://www.hobbylinc.com/prods/rhz_tam.htm

Both cars look great guys!! Craig, what brand/color paint did you use for the interior? That's the color I want for mine...........a type of Parchment with the aluminum trim for the dash. Thanks for the heads up also about the interior and headlight buckets. I dry fitted the interior beforehand and yes, it was a rather tight fit. :shock: I figured since the paint I'm using is Dupont automotive...........I'd rather be safe than sorry since I have yet to build any new Revell kits with this newer plastic.

Well here goes my next project............I figure it's about time I try my hand at something up to the minute! Here we have Revell's really sharp 2005-06 Mustang GT kit. I was hearing some initial horror stories about the "softness" of the plastic.......so I decided to try something I haven't done for years. I airbrushed several coats of Future Floor Wax on the body. Thus, the really shiny appearance of the plastic. The airplane and ship modelers have been using this for years, and I last did this in 1999 when I was building my '55 T-Bird. The Future kept that nasty red plastic from bleeding since I wanted a light turquoise car. I figured since it kept the plastic from bleeding, it should guard against the hot properties of the automotive paint I intend to use. Here's the hood....................you can see the reflection of the lamp above-------I'm gonna let everything sit for a day or so before I try to primer. Although I could probably use the dehydrator to speed things up, I'm in not that big of a hurry. Here's a shot of the bottle of Future in case you guys want to try this and want to find it in the grocery store. It doesn't need to be thinned, and I recommend using fairly quick passes when airbrushing to prevent runs! :shock: The car will end up being Sonic Blue (A 2005 color)..............I will tweak the color pallette somewhat by painting the rockers a semi flat black to take some of the visual weight from the profile of the body (ala the 2007 Shelby) and it will have dual over the top stripes (white). Wheels will be the mags out of the new reissue '69 Shelby Mustang low profilers Of course, if I screw this up...........there are a million and one kits out there for me to try again! :wink: Stay tuned!

Very Cool Flyer! I MUST have that '55 Chevy 2 dr hardtop!! BTW, time flies................has it been 50 years since the '57 Chevy was first intro'd?? Sheesh! :shock: When I was a kid in the '60's you couldn't go a block without seeing a '55-'57 Chevy!

Ahhhhhhhh! That's another passion of mine..............Bell 47 Helicopters----especially the vintage ones from the '50's, like the ones they used in M.A.S.H. I have an old R/C Bell 47 Helicopter that I got off the 'Bay a few years ago. Here's a pic of it hanging from the ceiling in the model room........ The motor runs but it has no servos at the moment. I've been too chicken to install them and try to fly it! :shock:

Wow! Now that's an ambitious project! 8)............And you're singin' my tune because I had to do the same thing to a '55 Ford project I was working on in the past. One word of advice though when sectioning bodies like that....................you may want to reinforce the underside of the body with more plastic where you cut it. This will prevent any "shifting" of the bodywork especially as you do more work to the body. It also may be a good idea to grind a slight "trench" in each of the sections you have joined, primer, and then fill those with putty and sand. This will prevent any ghosting that always seems to show up right when you put on those color coats. But what am I saying.................you seem as though you have some good experience at this!! :wink: Keep us posted!