Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

robertburns

Members
  • Posts

    256
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by robertburns

  1. I'll check it out, thanks! i have a feeling that the 88-89 used the same interior as the 79-87, so I have to find an 88-89 to verify this
  2. it's possible, but I've never heard that. These parts got a UV session for an hour. They felt tacky for a few hours but are solid now. The only only issues with 3D SLA printing are: 1. that it is pricey at this time for one offs 2. A lot of sanding layer lines for most printers (unless you use a super high resolution printer where you can't see the lines. I've used these for cockpits) 3. not archival. They sag over time unless you support it with other parts or material. FDM and SLS do not have this problem, but don't have the same detail.
  3. thanks! Yes, I'll paint it because I want the castings to be glossy. The material is Watershed 11122, which polishes easily to a rock hard finish, so I'll polish the glass parts. Veg oil in this case would screw with the primer so I can't use anything like that. These parts will be as clean as possible. No washing needed due to the alcohol scrub bath after removal from the 3d resin in the printer. Ive never had anything react badly to printed parts. I use superglues, exceleraters, acrylic clean, paints, primers, etc. Plastic solvent won't work as a glue, but UV solvent glue will. I've stored parts for 8 years with no ill affect. Clearcoating works, as does primer.
  4. Parts came off the printer today. I'll be getting them tomorrow and will start working on them.
  5. Hi Tim. Thank you, I'll try them for the 88-91 Cv because I can't think of a better way to do it. For this one, the thicker grill might work. I'm getting the grill parts tomorrow and will photograph it to see if it at least looks right.
  6. More progress. Getting closer on the body. Still have to fiddle with the front lights
  7. More images. (The blockiness of the corners will be rounded off)
  8. Not sure what to do here. Shapeways printing specs are a little larger than standard and have to enlarge the grill/headlight bucket thickness. If I enlarge the thickness (first photo) it might not look right. Hard to tell on screen. If I go with the thinner version (second photo), I'll have to print at another location which is fine for the resin & injection molded kit, but the On Damand 3D printed version comes off the table. The other option is to keep it thin and not separate the nose from the grill/headlight buckets which would be harder to chrome (masking involved) Any opinions?
  9. With my current Sci Fi projects winding down, I am finally able to start with the Crown Vic model kit and promo. I attached some progress photos. (Not the final version). I hope to have the first stage ready to go by the end of this year. Stage 1, which would be a ready to order 3D printed model. Stage 2 would be a standard resin model (very limited due to my time restrictions). Stage 3 by this time next year as an injection molded kit. Im getting older and growing tired of manual labor. Resin casting is very labor intensive, so I think an injection molded kit might be the answer. I have access to the CNC department at work, so I'll be trying to make a mold, with the help of a local injection mold company nearby. The plastic model will be mostly sold as promo police cars, but will be available as limited edition kits. When the mold is ready to be machined, I'll be starting a Kick Starter to help with costs. I'll be adding photos as progress is made. cheers-Rob
  10. Hi Buzz, Yes, definately. I'll send you a PM. Cheers, Rob
  11. My Futurliner (elsewhere on this forum) was a complete new master which shows what I'm able to do.
  12. If someone makes a master of one of these for me, I'll mold and cast it (if it's of good quality). Otherwise I don't feel like investing my time and cash in this if there's no interest
  13. Easier said than done. You probably don't realize it costs about $1000 to make a master, molds, and castings. Sorry, I don't feel like gambling on a grand. I can do another subject just as easily and sell more. And I never asked for a penny. I just asked for people who would buy one. I've done sci fi products that I get about 25-50 committments to buy when completed. I figured for about 10-15 flake outs. I make up for that with ebay sales. In this case, there wasn't even 10 or a single email asking what the reeal price was
  14. Canceled due to lack of interest
  15. Canceled due to lack of interest in both items. Thank you for posting
  16. But would you actually buy one? Would anyone? I'm a Dakota owner myself, but I doubt a whole lot of people would pay for a full resin kit. I can't post prices (moderators seem to edit every time I put a price in). Think average Modelhaus kit cost. If you want to know for sure, please email me.
  17. Actually, no. I'm talking with some friends at the manufacturer to suggest which products might make good reissues as parts packs.
  18. I don't know, I haven't had any interest in it yet. Thanks Rodney Thank you Bill! Yes, these will be printed, then molded, and cast.
  19. Hello All, If you can pull parts from AMT Ertl semi truck kits and trailers and release them in individual parts packs, what would they be? Engines, wheels, tires, accessories? Please be specific (like type of engine from this or that kit), and only from AMT Ertl kits. All ideas welcome. Thanks - Rob
  20. Yes, full kit required. The 1981 to 93 panels were all interchangeble, so you could put a 93 grille on the old body, but it'll just look like a 70s with a newer grille. The 81+ had new front doors, front fenders, bed, tailgate. The single cab was flatter above the rear window. The crew cab, rear crew cab doors, and extended cab were the same as the 1972 to 1980. The hood and cowl was the same as the 1980 (last issue with the square stacked headlights).
×
×
  • Create New...