Matt Bacon

...and these days, they could throw in the Audi R8 Spider which is Tony's daily driver... best, M

Thanks, guys! Both the Matchbox kits and the later (60s/70s) Airfix 1/32 kits are pretty impressive, and a world away from the Highway Pioneers/1st Generation Airfix kits of the 1950s. Sadly, Airfix is pretty limited in its re-releases, so although a handful of the 60s cars (DB5 and E-Type) come back regularly, some real gems like the Jaguar 420, Sunbeam Rapier, Mercedes 250SL and Maserati Indy languish in the vaults. Maybe the new Vintage Classic range will bring them back into the daylight. The Matchbox kits constantly surprise me with the detail they HAVE included. Half a dozen times as I built these, I’ve spotted something on a reference photo and thought “how am I going to make that bit?” only to discover that there’s at least a basic plastic version in the box already. The wheels are the only consistent issue, but that’s state of the art plastic moulding in the UK c1980. @peekay the wire wheels alone are a reason to get the Tomy SS100. It’s a lovely kit, and shows its finesse sitting next to the MBox in my cabinet... but I lucked in on the price of mine, so it was less than £20.... similar to what people want for the Matchbox. It’s not a Classic British Kit, but I’ve got an Arii/MicroAce 911S on the way... it’ll be interesting to see how it compares. i’ve started the Matchbox Porsche 935, which, since it’s not in a GB elsewhere I’ll post a build of here, starting shortly! Thanks again for your interest and positive comments, all... best M.

Tamiya TS-101 white sealer primer works well for me... best, M.

Thanks very much, all! Someone elsewhere wanted to know how big it is, so here you are: There's a story to those Humbrol tinlets. Both were used on this build. The 55 Copper is for sure 35 years old, because I bought it when I was painting metal D&D figures at 17 or so; the Railway Authentics Steel is probably even older, because I inherited those paints from a guy in his 60s when I was 25... Both worked perfectly after a quick stir! Here's a nice grid of 1930s Historic Racers, ready for the off: Airfix 1930 Alfa Romeo (2300), Matchbox Bugatti Type 59, Matchbox Aston Martin Ulster, and Airfix MG K3 Magnette. And finally, the current Matchbox 1/32 built cars in my collection. I have an MG TC, Porsche 935 and Auto Union Type D still to do, and there are obviously quite a few more to be had, if I can find them at reasonable prices (£30+ for a Citroen TA or Packard Victoria seems rather a lot!) best, M.

I've asked them about it at Scale Model World. They want to have "ranges" in their catalogue (ie 1/72 aircraft), so they would have to tool up a minimum of three. Personally, I think a state of the art E-Type coupe, DB4/5/GT and Series 3 Land rover would have done it (they missed the boat on the Mini and with Belkits' Escorts). But even more, I wonder why they don't do more in 1/32. They have some good old (1960/70s) kits in the toolbank, and the Hornby Group has plenty of research and 3D data over in the Scalextric designers office that could be deployed for Airfix kits. Licensing is apparently also an issue, but it doesn't seem to be (such) a problem for Revell, Tamiya, Beemax, Belkits and so on... best, M.

Bugatti does it deliberately for effect on some finishes: I think the tricky bit is going to be that you're not actually seeing a colour change in the underlying material, but a pattern caused by the way the weave of the fibres reflects the light as the fibres go one way then another. It's going to be hard to replicate because as you can see above, the effect is really about how the surface catches the light at different angles. I have been up close and personal with the ex-Chris Evans white F40 and Nick Mason's red one, and I can tell you that you can't see weave through the paintwork on either of them... best, M.

One last one from a GB on another forum... A nice little kit, with quite a lot of detail on offer, but improved with some wire of various sorts and sizes. The Bugatti 59 wheels are unique, with very fine piano wire spokes, but they look like cartwheels in the original Matchbox plastic. These have been rebuilt with some Detail Master radial spoke wires intended for 1/24 50s Americana... best, M.

I don't think anyone knows... Airfix released the 250GTO and E-Type convertible in the 90s, but they were just boxes of Japanese-manufactured parts, so the tooling never came to the UK. It's a great range of kits, both of cars and motorbikes, but at the moment it's lost... best, M.

...more's the pity. best, M.

If you want a real rally Stratos, then the Hasegawa kit is the one to get. Also boxed by Revell Germany, but beware: Revell also reboxed the old ESCI kit, which isn’t a patch on the Hasegawa. It’s kit number 07235 you’re looking for... best, M.

I like the "Design-A-Car" "computer" or slide rule "validated by the Remington Rand Univac Division of the Sperry Rand Corporation." Nice marketing for both sides, but I'd love to know which computer boffin whose day job was to design parts of the SAGE air defense system was asked to take a look at the little cardboard toy... and exactly what he (or she) "validated"... best, M.

I'd second the part about protecting yourself. I airbrush 2K clear, and it requires a spray booth, respirator and protective gloves. IMHO, it's worth the hassle for the quality of finish you get. It may be a clever can, but since 90% of the hassle in using 2K is protecting yourself and your environment, it doesn't seem to be worth having in a can, since you lose all the subtle control you have with an airbrush to get that glass like finish. And secondly, once the two parts of the clear are mixed, you have a pretty short window (maybe 20-30 minutes) when it's usable. I guess the can somehow mixes the components as they spray, but even so once they've started to come into contact, I can't believe an activated and part-used can has much of a shelf life... best, M.

Knowing how much @Ace-Garageguy likes his 356s, these are for Bill, and for anyone who is contemplating detailing the Revell 1/16 scale 356s, or building some of their Fujimi EMs... This one was described as an "outlaw"... not sure why. And this is what's under the hood The interior Regular 356 coupe Regular Coupe engine A very fast 356... ...in action,. And yes, the hill is that steep, which explains why so many cars get a bit out of hand at the back as they round Hollywood and start downwards toward the Craner curves... Classic 911 911 Engine... all of those light rectangles in the mouldings at the bottom are labels printed in black on gold paper. Wish I'd got better pics now, because they'd be a really easy way to add some extra realism to a 911 back end... This one's a bit of a puzzler... built March 1974, but with a 3.2 litre engine, according to its registration. I'm guessing its a road-legal Carrera RS replica, but I don't know for sure. Carrera SC Not a Yellowbird, but I think it would really like to be... best, M.

Brilliant! And it's good to see that as well as resto-rodding it, you added an off-road capability that I'm sure the neither of the donor cars brought to the party! Seriously, it looks very much like something the Ferrari Tailor Made program delivers for squillionaire clients, and it's a concept and model to be proud of... best, M.

If you can get a short piece of co-ax aerial cable, it has an outer plastic case, then a woven copper layer, then a plastic tube spacer and solid copper in the centre. The woven copper layer is very flexible, and you could spread it to wrap around a hoop, rolling the cut ends over to attach it, and then expand the other end as needed to look right. Then spray the whole thing with primer/colour as needed to cover the copper. For flowers, I’d look at dolls house stuff and see what could pass as something else at half scale, or garden railway scenery, which is the right size... best, M.

The whole 175-shot gallery is here: https://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Donington-2019 best, M.

And finally, some glamour shots best, M.

Some reference... best, M.

First, some racing... best, M.

Let’s not (no matter how tongue in cheek you’re being... ;-)) The front engine, rear wheel drive, clutch, gearbox driveline was invented as the Systeme Panhard. The 2CV was a people’s car that was also genuinely innovative, unlike the Model T. The Citroen 11CV Traction Avant came up with the monocoque body and front wheel drive 20 years before anyone in Detroit. The DS was the most sophisticated car in the world when it was launched, and for a decade or two afterwards. The Renault 5 invented the city hatchback, and the Peugeot 205 invented the 80s “hot hatch” alongside the Golf, but had a lot more “je ne sais quoi” and for twenty years in that genre (which may never have mattered in the US, but... your loss) Renault vs Peugeot vs Ford vs VW produced stellar and affordable drivers cars. The Renault Clio Williams, Peugeot 205 GTi and 406 Mi16 will eat for breakfast anything built in the US in the late 20th century over roads that have, you know, bends and bumps and hills on... best, M.

OK... time to bring this one to to a close. This is a MODEL (and as many have pointed out, a very well built and photographed one). The Fly models 1/32 Wessex, built by "Reebo": https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235053766-fly-wessex/&tab=comments#comment-3319266 Well done to Bill, Bob, Tyler and Dave. After the discussion, I hoped a few more would play. If we did it again, I'd suggest that either people only reply Real or Model in the thread until it's done, and give their rationale after it's declared, or that replies are sent by message to the setter, with explanations if you feel like it, and the result and who got it right are reported at the end, like in the Autoquiz. Bill was right, but his convincing rationale may have stopped other people entering since they felt the game was up, despite my best efforts to muddy the waters... I would say that I only set this one because I thought that was such a realistic looking photo when I ran across it; it's not easy to find such convincing ones to order. This, for example: is bloody amazing modelling, but without sailors busy around the decks and the brass-mounted full hull display, it'd never pass in a RorM quiz. Finding models of convincing quality in a setting that could pass for 1:1 is a big ask... best, M.

For anyone (like me) who's been waiting for these two to make a return, and baulking at high eBay prices meanwhile, looks like they're being re-released this summer and are now available for pre-order: 911S '69 911R '67 best, M.

I use art shop “Low Odor Turpentine” to thin Humbrol enamel for airbrushing. OK, it’s more expensive, but how much do you actually use for thinning? I’m still on my first (roughly 1pt) bottle after 15 years and counting. It’s never had any effect on plastic or primer. You can still use lacquer thinner for flushing and cleaning the brush. best, M.

For the seats, paint them first in an off white... white with a TINY amount of yellow or blue added, or even the smallest hint of black to make "barely-gray". If the car is going to be a warm colour, I'd go for the very pale cream off white; if it's going to be a cold colour primarily, then the ice-white with a hint of blue. When it's dried thoroughly, dry-brush with pure white, which will give you bright highlights and leave the creases in the pleats slightly darker... best, M.

No more iconic British car. The predecessor to the Mini, made from 1948 to 1972, 1.4 MILLION produced... lets get one of these from Ebbro before wasting any more design and tooling time on a bunch of same-o same-o one-off hot-rods (;-P) best, M.