kymdlr

this is an amazing build. great finishes on every part.

30 years old?? It looks really good , wouldn’t have considered it to be that old of a build. I made one also but only about a year old.

Really good build.

All the rebuilders & parts are gone. The Belvedere and F150 are gone.

All of them are very clean builds! That 70 Hurst car I’ve never seen before and yours is awesome.

Wow I didn’t realize that. I got mine at a show for $20!

Thanks for the comments all.

It ls a promo curbside kit , not sure of the manufacturer.

From the movie “Training Day”. Need to add license plates and she’s done.

Started as a glue bomb rebuilder, did what I could to save it. hinged the trunk, added a floor mat, spare & quick inflate bottle. 3D printed the HEMI and left a valve cover off which shows the pistons I added. Detailed the interior & opened up the glove box and center console. Bonded the front fascia to the body.

This is sick

Thread bump. this is airbrushed splash paints lacquer base with a rustoleum lacquer rattle can clear. This clear is usually my go-to with no problems. The base was perfectly smooth. When I sprayed on the clear, it immediately started to wrinkle and finished with this. Any thoughts on what went wrong?

Custom makes decals. May be able to help you with a reproduction. https://stsdecals.com

Found. Delete thread

Rebuilders in bags w/ parts. Assorted parts & boxed kits for trade. Looking for the following, can be rebuilders or mostly complete kits. AMT 75 gremlin Revell 70 torino Revell / AMT 71 mustang Revell 66 chevelle wagon Revell 69 Daytona Revell 70 charger Revell 70 CUDA Revell 55 Chevy prosportsman revell 70 Challenger

Anyone have the decal sheet for this? Specifically need the side and trunk stripes, preferably the white stripes and trunk stripes but either color is fine. mine were old and disintegrated as soon as they hit the water.

I appreciate the detailed break down. Yeah I’ve had some previous paint built up on some of my pads that I would use on several bodies. Totally makes sense that the old residue would cause scratching on new projects. I’ve bought new pads and I’ll look into the products you mentioned.

I used to use tamiya acrylics exclusively. Now I use cheap acrylics like apple barrel and folk art all the time and have great results with it. Some of the colors require multiple coats if you are hand brushing them on, others like matte black or darker colors don’t take multiple. If hand brushing, I’ll wet the brush with a little water first , it helps the brush flow better. I’ve been airbrushing them and had great results after thinning. For example- the folk art matte colors I’ll eyeball tamiya acrylic thinner until it’s the right consistency to spray and it shoots fine. With apple barrel I’ve used windex to thin it because the tamiya thinner just made it clumpy and non-sprayable.

I did some experimenting with another body that was polished with the same minor scratching in the finished result after polishing. I put a coat or two of future/ pledge liquid over it and surprise, scratches aren’t visible anymore and I have a nice shiny finish again. Sharing this tip in case someone could use it.

I wet sand. Just learned about adding dish soap from this thread so I’ll be doing that from now on. I stripped the body and going to start over.

It could be that the 3200 is too much to start with, which grit would you recommend as a starter and stopper? I’ve seen some guys starting with 1000.

I’m thinking I need to spend more time with each grit to make sure each layer is doing what it’s supposed to.

I prime and wet sand it down with 3200, 3600 at the most and shoot color over that. I do use microfiber cloths or an old T-shirt with my compounds but switch spots on the cloths with each pass of compound.

This has been posted several times I’m sure . Looking for advice on what I’m doing wrong in the polishing process. Typically I clear my bodies, sometimes I’ll just polish out the paint without clear. Im noticing that regardless of compounds used, im getting fine lines in the finish that aren’t coming out. My process is: 3200,3600,4000,6000,8000,12000 then scratch X, meguiars polishing compound, Meguiars ultimate polish then mothers carnuba wax. any suggestions?

Thank you, I thought it was a separate piece. I have an AMT Talladega but it was missing the spoiler. If anyone has the AMT spoiler I could use it.