LDO

I had not planned on doing a WIP thread because of my history of projects that drag on forever. Jim Keeler’s ‘68 Coronet is so cool, I think it could give me the momentum to see it through. This will not be an exact replica, but a tribute with changes for artistic license, practicality (it could be tough to track down all the original parts from late 1960s kits), and a mistake or two from not noticing small details in the old magazine photos. It’s easy to miss things in 56 year old B&W photos of a white car body. I’m starting with the body. Anyway- Pic 1: mock up of extended nose. These parts are held in place with blue painter’s tape. The side extensions are three layers of laminated .030” Evergreen styrene. I did that so I could bend them to match the cross section of the body at the cut. The top piece had to be replaced because I got the angles wrong. Pic 2: Blending the extensions into the door. They transition to slab sides at the front. They are 1/4” longer than Jim Keeler’s measurements from the how-to articles. That was a Charger body, so there is a bit of the artistic license. It has the replacement top piece in .080” Evergreen styrene. Pic 3: The underside of the roof. I made an error in the roof cut. There was a gap of about .060”, so I filled that with a strip of Evergreen styrene. That led to problems in the next step. Jim used a heated small spoon on the bottom of the roof to angle it down a bit. On my attempt, the Evergreen expanded and “bubbled up”. I had to file it down. My guess is this happened because it is softer than kit plastic. Jim used “Sprue Goo” as body filler. I have never tried it, but his looked better than mine.

A GMC inline six with Wayne cross flow head in multiple scales. Such a cool vintage hot rod engine.

$75.00 + $9.00 shipping. Buy it Now. No waiting to see if someone else wants it more. Not a bad deal. https://www.ebay.com/itm/197406723616?_skw=blazing+bison&epid=9069822791&itmmeta=01JX6P2SF920XZ7S4CSRNM1CH5&hash=item2df65b8e20:g:MpIAAeSwhatoRH5K&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1evd2eiW1nwW2rRm%2FobyGKBCxvr3pXDf37y%2BAGF%2FSs6f%2B1Hh0hsB1TORyzVR%2FDpVR2q4ELfSpudGCkC%2F3dhZUvr329QHS4Aw%2BEiJqJM%2BNb%2BzSz5drqcVeh6kS5%2BBTwfNrbhtnRaHG%2BvZLEYvk9sGIAh5%2BDtAL%2Fu2Drd0pwnxTyd%2B%2Fu9zIA%2Boe4Am7%2Fr4iDUAFofCJIMa93PggQmdOchqZvb4SeNnb5xZwH0k8VeY76D9q3GJmW2Gm%2BJ%2FMOVYF%2B6Jk4%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR96Xi9bpZQ

Thanks. I hesitated posting these, because I take so long to finish anything. I have a model bench set up again after not having one for several years. Hopefully that can get some momentum going for this project.

Thank you. It’s my version of “Dodge Fever”, built by Jim Keeler in 1968. I will start a WIP thread. After Jim won a National contest with it, he published a 5 part how-to article on building one, but using a 1969 Dodge Daytona body. I mail ordered those magazines. If anyone else wants to do the same, note that the measurements for cutting will not be the same for the 1968 Coronet. Also, the b&w photos of modifying a white body show very little contrast. It’s easy to miss details. That’s why the back end of mine is straight rather than a shallow angle. I’m leaving it this way. It’s my interpretation, not an exact copy. My reasoning is that a real fiberglass drag car body would not start out as an accurate Coronet, then get cut up.

I just got an e-mail from Curt. I will be ordering a set from him. I’ll have figure what size to get. I haven’t had a model bench in several years. Now that it’s set up again, I decided to jump in to the deep end.

I sent an e-mail to Curt Raitz but haven’t heard back.

In 1/24 or 1/25. Thanks. Lee

This is what got me to ask. I saw a post on Facebook about a Revell 1/25 Japanese import car and a Tamiya 1/24 model of the same car. (I don’t remember what car it was) There were pics of both kits side by side and the difference looked like more than 4%. I wanted to go back and say one or both might not be accurate. I couldn’t find that post again.

Is that what you needed?

Yes. Later tonight

The Testors “Vantastic” street rod has some really cool seats. They look like custom upholstery for a street rod/show car.

I think it’s roughly 4%. Am I doing the math right? Thanks, Lee

No association with the seller. https://www.ebay.com/itm/144649865619 it might not be too difficult to scratch build, if this isn’t exactly what you’re looking for.

The (fairly) new MPC Dodge Coronet has a hitch and towing mirrors, too. I have one of them and no use for those parts. I can send them but it will likely be next Saturday, due to my work schedule.

That is a fine looking street rod. Nice job.

Thanks. Sometimes I just have weird questions and the answers are not readily available.

Was it a bored and/or stroked 389?

Really nice weathering. Good job.

Or in other words, will the Merlin engine from an Airfix 1/24 Spitfire fit in a Heller 1/24 Blower Bentley?

I think I have a set of the Tamiya Jaguar wheels. I can check when I get home later tonight. I can’t think of anything I need. If I do have them, just help someone else out when you can.

The seller is printing replacement parts.

1974…ish. 1/32 Vega funny car. Age 5. The first one I definitely remember is a Monogram Mig-15 from around 1976. I remember it because I didn’t read the instructions and glued left and right upper wing halves together. I don’t remember if it got finished.

I wanted to mention the one seller whose parts are consistently top notch. I didn’t want to say never buy anything through mail order. The pictured parts are from an eBay seller in Europe.

*Before I say anything, I have to mention that Texas 3D Customs/Charles Estes make great parts. I have several of his engines and they are beautiful. No warping, no “spilled jelly”, no awkwardly placed support structure. The little bumps are generally in areas that will not be seen after assembly. I have no reservations at all recommending his printed parts. I changed the thread title. It was asking if warped 3D parts can be corrected. I got a 1/8 scale Ferrari 365 Daytona engine off eBay. The block/crankcase, heads, and cam covers are all warped. Other parts may be as well. The crankcase is flat on the bottom and warped on top. I believe it’s a lost cause. I’m not going to try to mill the top flat and rebuild that. I would rather just scratchbuild the whole part. I’ll reach out to the seller and see if he will make this right. I don’t have warm fuzzy about this. If someone will send out bad parts, it’s likely a sign that they are not good at making the parts. I bought a complete show car kit that had big problems with the body, tires, and a few other parts. I contacted the seller and he sent more garbage. I don’t have time to re-engineer/rebuild junk. I threw it away. I’m not even giving away something like that. I don’t want to run anyone away from this great hobby.