69NovaYenko

Is anyone familiar with or better yet used Tru Color paints? I know they are based in Phoenix Arizona and have been marketing their products since 2008 primarily to the scale train hobbyist. http://trucolorpaint.com/ Their paints are suppose to be "airbrush ready". Recently they elected to branch out into the automotive hobby. http://trucolorpaint.com/model-automobile-colors-high-gloss-and-metallic/ They also have a "masking paper" that is suppose to give very sharp crisp line when cut with a sharp hobby knife. http://trucolorpaint.com/products/accessories/ I`m assuming the paper is tacky so it will stick to the surface of the model. I`ve been looking for an better alternative to the blue /green painters masking tape because, it doesn't always adhere tightly to surfaces resulting in paint under-spray (seep/bleed through) at the most in opportune times. it doesn`t bend easily to conform to irregularly curved surfaces and with the cheaper tape I`ve experienced it leaving a sticky adhesives residue on the painted surface. I have an interest in both products. All feedback is appreciated.

As I scanned the instruction sheet I also noticed a number of the things you pointed out. Not only does the kit have Torque D`s they come with "knock off" center caps. Have not seen kitted knockoff center caps since the Revell `67 Vette coupe/roadster kit. And, that was a loooong time ago.

PM sent.

Stumbled across this video on how to made a homemade paint mixer/roller. It is a bit different approach to say the least but it will cost you only a couple of bucks provided you already have a drill. Check it out.

Thanks one and all for the insight.

I was recently engaged in a casual conversation about converting the newly tooled Revell `67 Camaro into a `68 Camaro with a fellow forum member and they suggested that I confer with others on the nuances between the two first generation Camaro`s. Beyond deleting the driver/passenger door vent windows and adding side marker lights due to a `68 federal motor vehicle mandate the exteriors were pretty much the same. I`m also aware that the rear shocks on the `68 were staggered to reduce wheel hop under hard acceleration. Are there any other notable differences that I`m over looking?

Just a followup on the pin hole/ dimples issue I had with my resin hood. After five nights and one Saturday afternoon of tediously working on it (sand/ rinse/touch up prime/wait for it to dry/ access the results...sand/ rinse/touch up prime/wait for it to dry/ access the results..sand/ rinse/touch up prime/wait for it to dry/ access the results..blah..blah) I finally got the part to look 99% better. I want to take a moment to thank everyone who took the time to give advise and assistance with the issues I was having with the resin part. Art, truer words have never been spoken when you stated "it can be a PIA". It was absolutely a test of my patience and resolve as well as a genuine PIA...LOL!!! When you take into account the amount of hobby hours invested into making this one part useable for my project its a shame. I refuse to publicly bad mouth the caster from whom I purchased the part, its not my style. Overall, I view this challenge as a learning experience and in some twisted way wish to thank the resin caster for giving me this challenge so I could broaden my modeling skill sets. However, that said I assure you I will be not be purchasing any additional parts from them...LOL! Additionally, this challenge has afforded me more insight about the resin casting process, largely due to the knowledge many of you seasoned forum members have dropped on me...thank you. It is said "any landing that you can walk away from is a good one"...."what doesn't kill you makes you stronger"...."the best knowledge is hard earned knowledge"...."live and learn"...."either your glass is half empty or half full"...etc. So, at the end of the day I look at this experience as a good thing. Many, many, many thanks to all those individuals who contributed in helping me overcome this modeling challenge. Best to you all, 69NovaYenko

I concede that the green Dana Camaro is a `68. So, I submit for your viewing the following picture of a `67 Dana Camaro 427 car with the same hood: https://www.google.com/search?q=1967+dana+camaro&biw=1842&bih=1232&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiKsbaLve3KAhXCJx4KHZShAlgQ_AUIBigB#imgrc=LitTMc2GAfSwaM%3A

True the only thing you need would be the distinctive dual scoop fiberglass hood.

I just heard that Revell is suppose to release in the first quarter of this year a `67 Camaro RS/SS Nickey kit under their Motor City Muscle banner. I`m also pleased to see a "Nickey" car being done..after all Motion and Yenko weren't the only players in the dealer prepped hi-performance super car game during the `60-70. Does anyone have any additional info on this new arrival?

Mike thanks for the heads up!!! I had NO idea that Revell had RS/SS Nickey `67 Camaro kit in the pipe line!!! I just got off the phone with my LHS and placing an order for a couple of them bad boys . Right now I`m doing my happy dance over here. Many, many thanks for the enlightenment!!!! I`m also pleased to see a "Nickey" car being done..after all Motion and Yenko weren't the only players in the dealer prepped hi-performance game during the `60-70.

Are there any of the talented resin caters out there doing an RS (Rally Sport) grill for the "NEW" Revell `67 Camaro? If not what`s you with that, (IMHO) I would be astonished if it wasn't a marketable piece. I`m just asking....

Exemplary looking build!!!

Art you so nailed it..you must have been looking over my shoulder last night. Your description is sooooo on the money. At first I had a number of pin holes that I managed to have gotten read of; now I'm felt with this several clusters of 1/25 scale hail damage like dimples. This is so testing my patience.

First many thanks for all the feedback on my pinhole issue. There has been tons of good advise put on the table. Here is a statics update: The piece I'm wrestling with is a resin cast hood. Presently, it`s in three coats grey primer. Two thin dusting of Tamiya and a third coat is a medium pass of grey Krylon sandable spot filler primer. it looks good at first glance but when you get it under light and closely eyeball the situation you can see several patches of 1/32 inch dimples here and there. These dimples are air bubbles that are right at the surface but haven't opened up yet. In response to Astroracer advise.."I will not recommend spraying these parts with a "hot" paint, such as lacquer. It WILL raise the pinholes through the primer." My intent was to replicate an era correct Nickey tri-power Stage lll car in era correct factory colors so my color coat (which I have already purchased") was going to be lacquer. I am open to all additional guidance at this point.

Thank folks for the assistance. Then the Lindbergh `64 Dodge 330 Polara, Color Me Gone, Ramcharger or Maverick kits would be a good base to start a build from as well as the Jo-Han `64 Dodge Super Stock kit. Hummm...I feel a project in the making.

QuickGMC & 935k3 thanks for the tips. Ace-Garageguy we always appreciate you dropping some knowledge on us.

Recently I`ve encountered pin holes in several resin part I acquired. The parts looked absolutely perfect on the surface but, once I began to sand them (with medium grade of wet/dry paper) I began to see tiny pinholes popping up. In fact the more I sanded the more pinholes popped up. The parts are beginning to look like the pot marked surface of the moon. This is the second time this has happened and the parts are from two different resin casters. Hence, two questions: 1) What causes this. 2) And, more importantly how do I fix this. HELP.

Ditto...Future but clear acrylic paint is my close second runner up.

Thanks for info everyone.

Can any of the Mopar enthusiast out there provide some suggestions for good source for a 1: 25 426 Stage II/Stage III "Max" Wedge.

"The Little Old Lady from Pasadena" sounds like an interesting car song project. My question is the lyrics of Jan & Dean`s song which was released in 1964 (later recorded the Beach Boys 1966) they never truly stated which model Dodge or engine displacement the little old lady was terrorizing Colorado Boulevard in. Little Old Lady From Pasadena lyrics It's the little old lady from Pasadena... The little old lady from Pasadena (Go granny, go granny, go granny, go) Has a pretty little flowerbed of white gardenias (Go granny, go granny, go granny, go) But parked in a rickety old garage Is a brand-new, shiny red, super-stock Dodge The song doesn't mention the model make or engine, only that it's was a 'Super Stock Dodge". So, in order to match the Jan and Dean song which full size 1964 Dodge are they talking about? I`m assuming it was either a 330, 440 or 500 Polara. And ,I assume the power plant was 426 Stage II/Stage III "Max Wedge". All input, insight, feedback or suggestions are welcomed. .

Different speeds of curing time you say...tell me more. Which is the slowest which is the fastest.

I working on a Moper wing car. The two vertical uprights and the horizontal bar have to be aligned and square up before the solvent sets and I only have tow hands..I need a window of time to get it all looking correct by for the solvent sets.

What is the working time (if any) with these products...quite often you need some to to adjust or square up parts before the solvents sets.