southpier

priming the body and using the paint as a guide coat can be a helpful way to see where you're removing material. i'll also use a magic marker - similar to how a machinist uses dye - and it gives me some perspective on where i'm starting and how much & where material is coming off.

some good fan poop here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=76693&hl=%2Bspray+%2Bbooth#entry969649

a 3.6 is as good as a 4.0, and it makes you much less crazy

if not for venetian blinds, it would be curtains for all of us.

the revel 37 ford truck has nice tires if the vintage look is what you're after. modelhaus probably has some if you can muddle through: http://koolestkruzers.smileyforum.net/t1572-modelhaus http://public.fotki.com/jsharisky/modelhaus_resin_items/

nice

no '32 roadsters in the mix? that must have hurt.

maybe they test it in a few areas to determine if it will sell - and then go full on stocking?

if you could cut the pillars at the cowl or roofline (rather than at the middle) and add a strip of brass to the backside when putting back together, I think you would be safe. the brass could extend into the fender or headliner so the joint would be reinforced. CA would be my choice, too.

tells a story

ha ha; we are a fickle lot, eh? the last HL I was in had sets, but no individuals! now, i'll just have to go to michael's & ac moore.

http://www.hobbylobby.com/weekly/coupon.cfm http://weeklyad.michaels.com/#

here's a tractor: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=823539&highlight=model+sunday you may have to join the forum to see the post, but all the cool kids are doing it!

how long do you want it to last? one photo session or moving it to shows? how big? one bay or fleet sized? these decisions may affect the materials & construction. what do you want the finished product to represent? wood, brick, enameled steel? that will also help you decide on materials. if you just want a box for now to rough out space, you can use foamcore from the stationary or art supply store. Gatorfoam is much more sturdy, but a bugger to cut for windows & doors. either of these materials can be sheathed with the siding of your choice. posterboard will most likely need some internal bracing. plexiglass can be a bear with which to work, and balsa . . . . . is a whole other topic. try not to get involved with it.

yup; tape, putty, & primer. and a ton of kits - AMT, Revell. not the whole line, but if you need something to build, HL will have something!

someone might find this useful: http://www.italeri.com/scheda.asp?idProdotto=2256 or wanting to build your own: http://residentialshippingcontainerprimer.com/CONTAINER%20COMPONENTS%20AND%20TERMINOLOGY

someone might find this useful: http://www.italeri.com/scheda.asp?idProdotto=2256

a number of other sights have ads (not poppers) which I imagine are there to offset operating expenses. the ads are relevant to the site theme, so just like in magazine-dom, they are a source of some information and somewhat helpful.

precision scale? any chance you have a part number?

nice. and nice to see a different take on the car.

she expects you to keep building and being the person she knows. it will get more bearable with time.

mixing ahead isn't recommended. neither is mixing lacquer thinner in plastic containers. Tamiya paint thins most predictably with their bespoke thinner. sounds like you've got a good system in place.

all

I think it's great more people are either starting or rekindling their interest in the hobby. pretty soon, we'll be in awe of you!

and then, they would form another one.