Cool Hand

Excellent build, very clean and well detailed James,really like all the custom features makes it very unique for sure.

Looking foward to the update Virgil.

Cant wait for this kit to land here in Australia,then again I dont think I will be able to wait and will end up importing a few.

Thanks heaps for all the comments fella's I really do appreciate it. The grille is from the kit,in total there are 3 grille options. At the moment Jim, this is the only other one I have. If you want to see more at different angles let me know. I know they are not a good scale representation of how 1:1 scale would look or function.But that doesnt bother me as I was just trying to add some visual interest and added detail.

Progressing very well Junior,good work on the extra details. Like the design on the base too. Look foward to seeing it completed.

Pics continued.

Just completed this for a build-off on another forum. Modified/opened up side window openings. Pegasus tyre's with Revell 70 Chevelle CL rims Paint on the body. Base coat H.O.K marine blue Overcoat/2nd coat H.O.K true blue pearl. Clear coated with H.O.K UC-35 Interior paint. Tamiya TS-6 matt black and XF-8 flat blue Frame/chassis painted Alclad chrome.

Thanks fella's much appreciated. Some more outdoor pics

Yep I like it Bruce. Like the colour shift paint ,blacked out chrome and all the extra detail you added. Well done, good job for sure.

Continued,final pics.

Just got this build finished. AMT kit. Opened up grille and front bumper. Aoshima kranze LXZ wheels,modified front rims to lessen the amount of dish/lip. Fujimi disc brakes. Interior colour is Tamiya XF-57 Buff. Paint on the body is Base coat: H.O.K black Overcoated/2nd coat: H.O.K intercoat clear with a bit of Pearl-Ex 644 reflex violet pearl mixed in. Top coat: H.O.K UC-35 clear

Thanks fella's, Glad the how-to will help some of you. Dont you know it will have a L.C.C decal some where. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Robert: Not much to report progress wise. Have applied primer on a majority of the components,just waiting for that to dry then il be back to making some more progress. Look foward to seeing your Kenworth build.

Spectacular,flawless execution.

Killa paint job Doc

Yep,they sure are Jim. I try to build a couple or more each year.As its good to have a break from the cars every now and then.

I thought I had already posted a topic of this build before.But I guess not. I know ive put pics up in other thread topics. Anyways seeing as there is a few chopper threads,thought some of you fella's might enjoy this one.(Has been posted on other forums,so I apologize if you have seen it before) A list of things done to build the bike. Below is scratch made parts/components; Frame. Bottom triple clamp and forks (made from aluminum tube with Knead-it epoxy putty on the ends shaped to a point). Handle bars (2.4 aluminum rod). Rear brake caliper (covered with bmf). Gear shift linkage (craft wire, aluminum tube and .9 aluminum sheet). Number plate mount and brake light. Primary cover plate, covered with bmf with skull from RM chopper kit primary cover. Seat (made from Knead-it epoxy putty). Below is Modified Parts Fuel tank (from cheapo diecast sectioned and shaped). Oil tank (from RM kit sectioned to make width smaller). Re-shaped fenders (from Rm wicked chopper Kit) made new mounts. Slash cut exhaust (Rm aces wild kit). Stretched primary drive(from Rm kit). Below is other detail's Fuel line, throttle cable,front brake cable, clutch cable, rear brake hard line, battery cables, oil lines ,spark plug leads. drilled out rear sprocket and disc brakes (RM kit). Fuel cap from spare parts (covered with bmf). Rims from RM aces wild kit. Paint; Tamiya Ts-76 mica silver base top coated with Ts-65 pearl clear and Ts-13 clear.

Looks good Jim. Nice colour for sure and really like all the custom work you done,in particular like how you inset the tail-lights into the rear fender.

Good start,look forward to seeing more of this build.

Gotta love the Impala's. As always mate, built cleanly and well detailed.

Nice build mate

Continued. Work out how much ground clearance is required,i chose 6mm. Find some sort of flat material that matches the ground clearance mesurement ,and use this a guide and mark the bottom of the guard/fender.I used two pieces of 3mm acrylic. Mark around all the edges.Then cut off with a razor saw Well there you go thats how I made the guard/fenders. Final step is de-burr and round off edges and sand all surfaces with 400 grit and they are ready for a coat of scratch filler primer. Well hope that helps,probly many other better ways to make them.But this is how and what worked for me with the materials,tools and minimal skills I have.

Continued. Reposition the side against the back and push the pieces together, clamp and glue. Once glue has set up repeat for the other side. When fully made, run a bead of glue over all the joins inside and out.Allow glue to set. Looks rough with all the glue on the outside.Next step will fix that up. With 320 grit and a coarse sanding stick,sand and blend all the outside joins smooth.Try not to remove lines when sanding. Using a dremel with a sanding drum attached grind out the inner shape of the guard/fender. And remove excess material on the sides.

Continued. Using ca glue run a good bead around where the pieces join.Allow time for the glue to set. Flip it over and repeat the previous steps,dont forget to make sure the lines are on the outside. Postion the other side pieces ,but only glue them to the edge of the radius piece.Allow glue to set.

Continued. Cut some more 1mm styrene to the width dimension's and the length of sides with a few extra mm added.Sorry didnt get a pic of this but the following pics will explain. Overview of components Scuff the inside edges of the top radius piece with a coarse sanding stick or 320 grit,this will help the ca glue adhere better. Set up a jig simular to this. Postion the radius piece against the back,postion the other piece with lines facing down and clamp it.Measure both sides making sure they are equal.

Continued. Transfer the drawn dimension's from the cardboard/paper to some 1mm styrene sheet x4 Cut out,shape the top radius and sand a small bevel/angle(hard to see in the pics) around the radius and side edges. Mark the centre seam on the container. Using a razor saw cut the top portion off using the lip as a cutting guide. Add 4mm to the width measured from the tyres earlier and set a compass to that measurement.Using the top of container as a guide scribe around it. Using caution and go easy as the container will break if too much pressure is applied. Cut the width first then cut along the seams.