Aaronw

Ok, I talked to three of you from the site but I didn't think to ask who you guys were. I bought a '50 Ford pickup and a Tamiya Alpine 1600 at your table. From the Seseme Street T shirt guy.

Also when you actually get to the point of taking photos, take a bunch, everything looks fine on theat little screen but you will find blurry pics sneak in there, if you take 2 or 3 from each angle there is a much better chance of having enough usable photos and it isn't really any harder to delete 20 pics than it is to delete 5.

Well I sat through Gregg's photo demo last summer, and the first thing he told us was toss the instructions, nobody can understand them. Pretty much what CAL said, except if you just want to post them online one of the middle to lower settings are probably fine and it will save you the step of resizing them when you post online. I usually resize my photos to 800x600 and 72 dpi, which provides a nice computer screen sized photo. If you want to print them out or take them to be printed as photos then use the highest setting. You can get a nice tripod at Walmart or Target for $20 or less and it will make a huge improvment in photo quality. You want to avoid using a flash, natural sunlight or bright indoor light is best. Also a clean area is nice, even if you don't use a cardstock background a clear table or bedspread make a far superior backdrop to chip bags, soda cans and a computer monitor.

Thanks, that looked like an interesting conversion. Sounds like some work but would be worthwhile.

Also I'd check with Gregg but it has been my understanding that he will let resin casters show off their latest creations in the resin section of the site.

I saw that at AITM the other day, how in depth of a conversion to the 377 is it, swap a couple of parts or a good bit more?

Handy to know, so the floor of the bed should be a solid color, as the skid strips are the same color as the "planking"?

That could work too, thanks.

Ok, my identifying feature will be a dark brown Seseme Street shirt, so if you see a tall guy wearing a Seseme street shirt I'd say its safe to assume its me. See some of you there Tommorow.

I'm thinking about converting a Lindberg '53 Ford to a 4 door, but I'm wondering how much needs to change besides adding 2 more doors. Some cars seem to be fairly easy, fill and rescribe doors, others (I'm looking at you '58 Impala) would be a rather large undertaking. I'm hoping I will discover the Ford falls into the first group. I don't have a really good eye for picking up some of the smaller changes, like modified roof lines etc unless they really jump out at you. So any help here? Thanks

So this is the tractor only version? I got one with the trailer and '40 Ford but have been waiting for the tractor only, I have plans for a couple of them. Nice to hear cleaning up the molds wasn't just a rumor either, Thanks. We got a nice tax return which should arrive any day(unfortunately not in time for the NNL West swap meet and venders ), looks like I'll be trying out several of the Lindberg kits for myself.

Yep that helped, that is quite the fancy motor, just hard to believe it goes in a truck. I'm kind of surprised Mack didn't offer a clear acrylic hood to show it off.

If they turn they turn, if they don't they don't. That is about as much time as I take with them. I am far more concerned with making sure they all touch the ground.

You know that is not very nice to do Gregg, do you also go to the library and rip the last page out of murder mysteries?

I was just wondering about the gold used on Mack engines. The intructions say gold, and I've seen some builds with gold engines that look great but look more like something you would see in a custom car not a heavy truck. I've only driven one Mack, a 1976 CF that had a Maxidine engine, but I do not remember it being in your face bright gold, granted it was 16 years old and had seen a lot of use when I drove it so may have been buried in greese and grime. So fresh from the factory are the engines bright gold or are they a bit more subdued? I have a couple of Macks moving up towards getting built so thought I'd better start doing some research.

I'll be there, haven't been able to finish much but at the very least I'll have my Celery Green '68 Plymouth Fury Park Ranger Patrol car done.

I think there are IPMS chapters in Fremont, Santa Clara and Mountain View as well. I was looking into them when I lived in the Bay Area but moved before actually going to any meetings.

That is a Modelhaus cab. Me too.

Of course I've seen this already, but very nice. That front mount pump really steals the show, it could be a stand alone build.

I saw a resin cast one on ebay awhile back, but it didn't look like the quality was that great from the photos posted.

Thanks, I like those old trucks, there is just something about 50's cabovers. I figured it was resin but thought it might be the guy casting old Peterbuilts a few years back (Silver city, Silver state? something like that). Should have bought some when he was casting, I really had my eye on some of his 40's Peterbilt conventional cabs, but as they say you snooze you lose.

I would suggest contacting a resin caster that sells similar stuff then work out a deal on the use of your master. I've had people send me stuff the've done for fire apparatus builds. I make a couple copies to send back with thier original. They get a couple parts for free and I get a new part I can cast. Its just a matter of finding some one interested in your part. Mold making supplies are not cheap and they are time consuming to make so it wouldn't be worthwhile for most people to make a 1 shot mold.

I ran across this at Hanks trucks, http://www.hankstruckpictures.com/pix/truc...attle_truck.jpg could you share any info on how you built it. At the very least how about some more pics?

All the 5 min epoxy I've ever used smells like feet, so I'd say yes it all stinks. Funny thing is casting resin really doesn't smell except for the clear stuff which will curl your toes, its like a perm solution and acetone cocktail. I recently bought some 5 min epoxy at Hobbytown, it came in two squirt bottles like you describe, kind of like ketchup bottles. I like it, its easy to use and doesn't seep out like the twin syringe style tubes do since they sit upright when not in use.

That should fix your problem. With most commercial decals you can get away with the slide the decal off the paper onto a finger or paint brush, but most of the do it yourself decal papers are really thin and the method described above works a lot better. The translucent issue mentioned a few posts above is also common, on darker colored models I usually find I need to cut a piece of blank white decal film for a base or the decal will be too dark. Those printing with an Alps get around this problem by printing a white background under the decal.