Mike Kucaba

How do I contact him? E-mail is fine. Web site shows a domain sale notice. Thanks

The lines if I see this right are from removing the trim. He's fighting the plastic memory ghosting this back.Even after careful sanding & priming and it appears they are gone,subsequent applications of topcoats will soak thru and come back.Another option would be to use an acrylic water based primer,or solvent based enamel.Any lacquer based will soak in and cause the lines to reappear. Last resort may be a coat of Future acrylic. BTW,rescribe the door lines before they disappear.

And be careful. Clear styrene is very brittle. Make sure you are supporting it with something underneath where you are sanding .

Like This?

I know you don't want to here this,but grind or file out the trimline area and refill with strip styrene attached with CA glue. Using accelerator is and option(I don't but others do,nothing wrong with either). sand smooth and skim coat with a two part polyester putty. Here in the U.S. I would then prime with DuPont Vari-Prime,but I don't know what the same would be in your country.

I tried that once or twice and then tired of it. I attempted to do a status of where I was at with a certain build,paint used etc.It became all too overwhelming.I do try to at least write the paint type and color somewhere inside the body.I'd like to find a system(computer) where all this could be done.

I think that's because they are spraying in a confined area. That booth is really small to be using a rattle can IMHO.

Niko, Herb Deeks has wire wheel PE inserts only. You can use any suitable rim,plastic or aluminum. He sells on Ebay.Just search wire wheels.

Very nice!

OH DARN!! I knew that.

I don't have all the answers,but one thing you shouldn't do is press down lightly on the nozzle.You can't regulate the spray pattern that way.I'd suggest getting one of those devices that snap on to the can to simulate a spray gun. And don't forget the basics: warm and shake the can,ALWAYS start the spray OFF the model and bring to it, and keep the can moving.

Nice Bernard. You seem to be able to pull all the right stuff together on your rod builds.The wide fives are a neat touch

Looks like a good start. Airbrush or aerosol?

Who made/makes the styrene tube with brass wire inside? I thought Evergreen or Plastruct did but nothings on evergreens site and Plastruct provides tubing and wire separately in oly two sizes.

Fantastic portfolio!!

Man,That is some heavy damage to those brushes.Did you soak these and not rinse? I've been using ammonia(the sudsy kind with lemon for years and neither of my two VL's look like that.I do rinse with clean water and wipe off the out side with a wet cloth then dry with a cloth.After a long session with acrylics I will do a tear down and really go at it.I recently got some of that Medea cleaner with an Iwata and that works well.

Masking and shooting the stripes,or( shooting the stripes first then shooting the white) would be the way I'd try. Then move onto finding some lettering to do the letters/numbers. How about a couple large sheets of blue decal paper. Also,I seem to recall that those stripes vary in width down the front.

I have that kit somewhere in my storage unit and I'll see if a friend of mine would like to take a stab at reproducing those decals. Thanks for the heads up about this and maybe a warning to all.When about to use those ancient/rare decals get at least a high quality scan/copy in color before you dip them in water and they disintegrate. At least you have some artwork to go on.

KNOCK KNOCK! Daves not here couldn't resist

VERY PRETTY!

I have found over the years that water based acrylics are the toughest paints to clear from an AB. I suggest that an oz or two of ammonia run thru the AB does wonders. You should flush after that with clean water. If the paint is drying you may want to pick up some acrylic paint retarder and / or flo-aid by Liquitex. Also having a large tip in the AB helps. "Striving diligently to get my posts count higher"

If you shoot outdoors in the daytime,you needn't worry about it. Indoors? I did mention the Klutz thing

Ah yes! the super secret GM flying car using technology from captured aliens. There was something similar in SA years ago and this one looks every bit as kool.

You can probably look up how much CFM those fans move at Graingers website. The smaller one looks like what's in my booth and it really pulls the air.It vents to the back and to cut down on the pull,I had to double up on the filters.The run for my booth was very short, just about six feet. The other on labled Fasco appears to be more of a blower if you specking this for some project. Good luck on this project.

VERY PRETTY!