Brutalform

Thanks for the offer. This resin hood does sit pretty flush, being that the promo body fenders and old hood were a bit thick. There is a slight warp to it that I’m sure a little hot water will fix.

I’m pretty sure (Bruce) SMP Decals has the correct decals to build this car.

MCW has a correct Z-11 interior tub. There is a new owner now, but I’m sure a “Model Car World” search will send you in the right direction.

Sorry. I realized it was you I spoke with in the Wanted section.

Thanks. I was recently looking for that casting. When I last spoke to Ed last year, he said he no longer has the mold for that body. I wish I was able to buy two of them when they still were around. I posted on the “Wanted” section, and someone had one but wasn’t willing to part with it. Gonna play with the hood I have, but going with a styrene hood still isn’t out of the question.

Yes. That looks like one of his ripoff jobs. That Teresawulf is a scumbag, degenerate, puke. He steals everything he can. He’s the number one reason Jack Smith and others stopped selling their things on eBay. I’d still get my money back for them just on pure principle. He won’t answer your complaints I’m sure, but ebay will definitely refund your money.

Here are the decals from SMP. Also the body after some putty work and sanding and primer. Just a couple more little spots I’ll have to go over that I missed, and it should be good. Pics are pretty hard to find but If anyone would be kind enough to provide any additional pics of this car? I would really appreciate it. Someone on the boards posted an under hood pic from a car show a couple years ago. This would be a big help.

The GT350 sounds like a great idea Maxx! How that TBolt coming along?

Did you buy your decals from (Bruce) SMP Decals? That where I bought mine for this build. I only had one problem with one decal, and I have bought a lot of decals from him, but, the decal lifted off a model after it was applied for a while. And he promptly sent me a replacement. I really like that build of Dyno Dons car you recently built. I built that car a while ago, and it shows. I’d like to rebuild it, now that I have a little more skill in the hobby. I built the Hubert Platt TBolt a long time ago, right when I got back into the hobby since I was a kid, and recently rebuilt it again. Big difference… lol

Thanks for the positive vibes everyone. I applied putty on the body today to cover up the little scratches and gouges I made removing the trim. Tomorrow it should be dry, and I can start sanding. Hopefully after that, I will hopefully have a nice, smooth, primed body.

Old hood removed. Added strips to support resin hood.

Thanks Ron Yes, I have a resin hood I plan on using. It will need the thick spots on the underside sanded down a bit, but it should work fine. A little CA glue on the insides of the posts firmed it all up. Will try to get it in primer later on if the weather agrees.

I recently found an old green promo donor car, to replace the cracked resin body. I should have chose this route to begin with. Another learning experience. I removed the trim, filled the front fenders where the trim wouldn’t exist on a Ford 300, and built some door and windows posts. After this all dries I’m hoping to carefully remove the cardboard templates, and add a bit more glue to the inside to strengthen the pillars more. Then I can prime the whole thing, and fill the little gouges that occurred from the trim removal. After priming, and sanding, it should reveal the high and low spots I’ll need to fill with putty.

I agree Tom. I noticed there was another thread after I posted this one, and Bill (Mr Obsessive) said the cost is like $71 a month, and the whole thing while said and done would cost $1700 for a complete car. Might be a cash grab….for some anyway.

You’ll get it figured out on another day. When one little thing goes wrong on my builds, I just call it a day and walk away. Sometimes I start another build altogether. Hmmm now I know why I always got 15 builds going on. Still with the set back, you have done a fine job on the Willys.

This kind of reminds me of the old monthly model club I belonged to as a kid in the early 70s. I’d like to look into it more about pricing. Seems just about everything is screwed together on this car.

Yes. Definitely hard to find. I have it on a VHS tape. You can always check out the car when it was on American Graffiti when it’s painted black.

I also use this. And since I started using it, I don’t remember the last time I used any Testors or Tamiya jar paints.

A seller on the bay has all the pieces to build the car. It’s my understanding that it’s the same person that owns Reliable Resin, and has had a few problems in the past with filling orders. But the seller has maintained a 100% feedback. He has just about every part to build the TLB car. Might get a bit costly, but maybe buy the body and flip front, and grab everything else from other kits, or your parts bin to save money. I was seriously thinking of buying his stuff myself to build this car. Just check his other items for sale for other TLB parts. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1955-Chevy-Gasser-BODY-Shell-TLB-for-AMT-1-25-kits-by-Reliable-Resin-/234051962840?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

Very cool build.

Excellent job. Big improvement on the injector stacks. Too bad the only 65 Dodge version is in resin. Nice model.

Super Stocks are my favorite cars to build. This is the nicest build I’ve seen of this car. I like how you incorporated both exhaust systems. Very nice job.

She was a very pretty woman.

Glue that I use in different situations. White Elmers glue- to temporarily hold parts together for trial fitting and modifications. Also works well on clear parts, like windows and headlights. Watch crystal cement- chrome and clear parts. Liquid cement- to bond (weld) parts together that will not be separated. Like engine block halves, and whole engines if I plan on painting as a unit, one color. This can be had in thin or thicker consistency depending on your application. Super glue or CA glue-For quick bonds of parts that have a tab that will be glued to a hole. CA glue can greatly speed up a building process with its fast drying time. Also can be had in different thicknesses as well. Epoxy 5 min- This two part resin is mixed in equal parts and will allow you to be able to position the part, to get it right where you want it, before it cures. The epoxy and CA glue also allows you to bond parts without the scraping and removing of paint or chrome. CA glue normally doesn’t play well with clear or chrome parts as it will cause hazing and fogging. Unless of course if you use a Bob Smith Industries glue that will allow you to use it on clear and chrome parts. CA glue and Epoxy for resin parts, as the others simply won’t bond to resin.