Brutalform

You’re welcome, Michael

Yea, his stuff is really nice. Found a pic from another build. Ignore the glue on the upper belt. I did that belt over after I used too much glue and it leaked out.

Zap A Gap medium CA glue.

And don’t forget a quality plastic welder. I do believe the Tenax, and Pro Weld is no longer available, but, the MicroMark, and Plastruct will get the job done.

Probably a little easier to just post these pics of my supplies. Besides the tube, and rod styrene, the strip styrene in the first pic comes in real handy at times too. Some brass and aluminum rod, and tube, also is useful for making driveshafts and attaching wheel backs etc. I totally agree with Greg on having a few things you might need sometime, than not having it.

Another great looking build.

Superb. I KNOW the work that went into this build. Job well done.

Your builds are so nice and clean, and correct looking. Beautiful job on your foil work. Every part of this build looks perfect. Nice job.

I use Pro Techs racing harness. I try to keep several on hand usually. The material Charlie provides is white, smooth on one side, and textured on the other, so it’s super easy to color it with a sharpie to any color you desire. I highly recommend them.

Thanks JC, but stick to your technique that you posted on your tutorial on how you make your cages. It works much better than what I was trying to do. I ended up removing the two top bars, and bending them before mounting them to the side bars. I really should have just done that from the start. What was I thinking? I’m just glad the windows, dash, package tray, and door panels all fit nice and tight.

Thanks everyone. Wish I could get more bench time in though…

Whenever I’m using any kind of plastic welder, I like to slip something between the work area and the roof panel, to avoid any drips ruining the plastic. Now after these are fully dried, I’ll bend the bars to fit along windshield pillars, and around the dash. A little cleaning up around the joints will be done right before primer.

Taped the dash in so I know the bars are not going to interfere with it. Also notched the rear package tray to allow the bars to pass through. With the side bars, the armrests had to be removed from the door panels.

Thanks for the replies everyone. Scott, I’ll get a few pics of the Impala posted up later on. We had a death in the family on my wife’s side, so with all that going on, and the estate, we’ve been busy lately. But I did manage to start on the roll bar, using some Evergreen .062 diameter styrene rod. I have it all figured out with the floor pan, and all. I filed all the joints with needle files, to get a nice fit.

Later on I’ll add some aluminum tube to the headers, just like this 66 Impala has.

Thanks. No it’s kit supplied, but I temporarily taped it in, and carefully applied jewelers watch crystal cement all around it. I thought it would end up with a gap between the glass and body, but it worked out well in my favor.

Had a set of Fireball Modelworks carbs laying around. They are actually race Hemi carbs, but since I already have them I plan to remove the vacuum secondary chamber, and remove the air horns. I plan on removing the angled mounting flanges from the yellow manifold, so the carbs sit straight, and fit nicely under the scoop.

Just a mock up to check to see if the trans, bell housing, and headers all fit in the chassis. I plan on adding header down turns later on in the build.

I decided to use the engine pieces from a 55 Chevy Pro Sportsman kit, pretty much for the safety bell housing. I initially was going to remove it, and add it to the kit supplied engine, but decided to keep it there and just saw off the kit supplied trans instead.

I know, many builders hate to see a scoop on a old classic automobile, but this one is going to be a drag strip warrior. Found an old scoop in my parts bin that wasn’t ridiculously large.

Thanks David. Yea, after trial fitting the grill several times, it fits pretty snug. Didn’t really have to do too much on the buckets, except where the mounting pins were.

Very cool, informative video with a bunch of tricks and tips.

The tops of the frame that will be visible from under the hood needed to be filled. A bit of strip styrene glued in, and some putty should do the trick.

Painted the rims with a Stainless Steel Buffing. I might go around the edges with some Molotow to give a shiny, polished, aluminum look.