Brutalform

Thank you for the replies. Scott, I bought the license plate decals from Slixx. They have the Red Alert decals complete on two mini gasser sheets.

I bought a kit from Pittston Pa, which happens to be only eight miles from me. It took over a week to arrive, and according to tracking it went to four other Pa towns, and left the whole state before arriving. Now I used to drive tractor trailer, and other delivery vehicles for over 25 years, and that is NOT the way it’s done. Just sayin

One of my favorite Twilight Zone episodes.

That’s because there is a clown running the postal service. It’s been terrible ever since he took over.

Been working on this Chevelle and remodeling the basement bathroom. Finally got one of them done. Amt Chevelle with the Revell 69 Chevelle chassis. The decals were a bit challenging. I still want to go over them with Micro Sol to see if they can look better.

ProTech has etched bolt and nut heads and fittings. .020, .030, .040. With the bolt side, or the nut side can be utilized. Also small fittings with a center hole for brake lines, fuel lines, etc.

Very nice. Excellent detail work. May I ask what racing harness and buckles you used?

Harts Parts is one way to go, but just remove them yourself for free. I did a pro street build of this car a few years ago and removed them from mine with no problems.

Revell and Amt 67 Chevelle pro street kits are a good candidate for this project. Might have to adjust the floor pan to correct the wheel base. These also have the tires, rims, and the associated other parts. Plus a BBC engine. Another kit that can be sourced is the AMT pro street nova. This kit will have a SBC. But it’s a smaller floor pan so it might be better suited for the Camaro you mentioned. But like mentioned above, simply back half a Camaro kit that has the BBC would probably e the easiest route.

Good point. Great info for some beginners, and advanced builders. Vinyl and enamel are a no-no. Also when I use some of Protech’s braided wire, I actually forgot that simple rule. As I stripped the braided part off to expose the wire, and it’s insulation, I just so happened to paint the insulation with enamel chrome paint, to replicate hard line, and it didn’t dry. Every thing I touched had the paint all over it.

This is from a friends vantage point. Blown away!!! IMG_5533.MOV

I just saw them in Philadelphia on Wednesday. After attending 70 or 80 concerts in my life, I do believe that nothing will ever compare to what I witnessed Wednesday night. Rammstein is definitely a tough act to follow. I’m still upset that I couldn’t get a tour shirt though. The lines were ridiculous. Tried the line three times, but I didn’t want to miss the performance. Then at the end of the show the shirts were all sold out! Never had difficulty getting a shirt before. I guess that’s what happens when a band doesn’t tour the U.S. often. I’d go see them again today if I could.

Just as Steve stated, mostly all tire lettering, white walls, red stripes are flat on the 1:1 cars. If I decal, use gel pen, or paint, tires, I usually mist the finished tire with dull cote to take away some of the sheen, if it doesn’t appear flat enough.

Glad it’s working out for you. These were painted Vallejo white first, and followed by Vallejo red. Since they are water based, a Tamiya pointed swab with a bit of water wipes any excess off. It definitely helps to thin the paint a bit, so it will flow into the grooves easier.

And thank you,Tim, for the explanation. That makes sense to me.

There are many regulations that weren’t even thought of back in the day. Many of those cars didn’t even require a roll bar. After injuries or deaths occurred, they would implement the new rule to make it less likely to happen again. But that’s the great thing with building models, as anyone can build it exactly the way they wish. Sometimes I like to build a period correct racer, and other times, I like to incorporate the modern safety features. They also add to the detail of the build too. One thing that comes to mind Tim, is the Lindberg 64 Mopar S/S kits have a safety loop included right in the kit. I usually steal that part as well for other builds. Maybe some race teams decided to use a loop for safety on their own? Kinda like the motorcycle helmet laws. I’m not required to wear one but I definitely would if I was riding one.

Same here! Bought a 4” bilge fan for $40 from Amazon, and plan on building mine in the winter also. After seeing the prices of some (safe) quality booths, I decided to build my own also.

Benefits to good health can also be achieved by adding a fiber supplement to your diet.

Super nice build John. After looking at this build, you’ve given me the itch to start on a pro street, or a pro stock car to get me out of my slump.

Also I forgot to add, the 68 Hemi Dart kit has a 8 3/4 and a Dana rear in it. It’s nice when you don’t have to leave the Lindberg minus a rear, when you can steal one from the Revell Dart kit.

Ahhh one of my favorite builds, Tim. You did a beautiful job on it. I read all about your build in that write up. Actually, that article was the reason why I bought a few of these 65 Plymouth kits. I still have a few in my stash of the three drag cars, along with the max wedge car. I’ll eventually get around to building the Grumpy Jenkins car since I have the decals for it. I don’t think there is really any problems with these kits as they are, but I heard a few stories about their customer service. Not trying to open a can of worms. Other than that, I’ve had no problems. I have a whole bunch of Moebius kits, and am anticipating the release of the 65 Dodge AWB.

Super sharp build. Everything looks perfect.

I’m driving my 2014 Maxima, with 58,000 miles, Ive had the fluid changed as recommended. My old 2007 Maxima also had one, which was well maintained as well, and when I traded it in for my 14, it had over 100,000 miles. The ONLY reason I traded it in was because the 14 was a leftover and I saved $10 grand right off the sticker. Plus my trade in, so in short, I bought a new Maxima for less than a new Altima with a four banger would cost. I hear Nissan merged with Renault, and their CVTs are made by JATCO, and are supposed to be junk, but I don’t see it. I don’t drive my daily drivers like I drove the drag car, but these Maximas still put a smile on my face every time I mash the pedal.

I’ve often thought about this myself. After looking at the stash, I notice the Nickey Camaro is a level 5? But then I look at some cars that I know first hand are more difficult to build, with a only a level 3. Take the 55 Pro Sportsman kit. IMHO is definitely aimed at to a more advanced builder. When I built my first one, I wondered how can this be a level 3? I was thinking to myself what would a level 4 be like? But if IIRC, there really wasn’t anything higher than a 3 at that point. But I believe Bill summed it up. You put someone in charge, behind a desk, and sometimes they don’t even have a clue to what’s what. Probably the case here.

I had to chime in on this, as I just viewed the video last night. First of all, as someone already stated, he ruined a 64 Comet. In my opinion, he ruined it the day he started building it. That POS cost $208 grand to build? I’d build a Pro Mod with that kind of Capitol. Brakes outdated and ready to fail? Check! Harnesses installed for looks only? Check! Throttle sticking? Check!! And the final kicker is, the morons went on YouTube and told the world, how negligent they are, and now there is a video to prove it!!! Just the last piece the lawyer of that poor family in the SUV they smashed into will need to prove his case, showing how he knew the car shouldn’t be driven, let alone stepped on. And to wonder why I’m becoming a misanthrope?