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Brutalform

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Everything posted by Brutalform

  1. Also sanded the Missing Link manifold to fit the engine. Since I’ll be using epoxy to fasten it, a little bit of resin should fill the small gaps in the front, before painting.
  2. Cut carefully, and after every couple of passes, check your work. The idea is to keep the saw flat so you don’t ruin any of the fine details on the mounting plate of the carbs.
  3. The carbs come cast to a block, which will need to be cut carefully with the saw.
  4. Working on the engine, while I’m waiting for the glue to dry on the chassis. First Id like to say that Joseph (Fireball) makes the best carbs out there.. bar none. For anyone wanting to use his carbs, you gotta get yourself a razor saw.
  5. Ok, as much as it pains me to cut a nice rare old kit like this, it’s chop away. The old radiator support has to go, so I can get the Lindberg piece to fit in. Also cleaned up a lot of the flash around the roof emblems and on the body in general.
  6. Even the correct looking wire in front of the radiator support. I’m blown away on this build.
  7. This is so cool, Jason. Your attention to detail is impeccable. I’m so glad I came across your build, as I am building a 62 Dart, and just hoping mine comes out half as nice.
  8. No problem Rich. I was just at the bench cleaning up a resin kit of a 1963 Dodge 330. It will have a max wedge as well. This is the one I was really looking forward to building. You have to admit.. the Dart is pretty ugly. So I decided to play with this one for a bit. Probably clean up the 62 Plymouth Savoy soon too.
  9. One fine looking GTX. Your under hood detail skills are superb. Looks very realistic.
  10. That’s what us “hacks” do best... lol
  11. Yes, for this particular car, trimming the rear of the floor pan up to the fuel tank. Trimming the front, and constant rechecking. This should get the front tires centered in the wheel wells. Then the rear leafs need to be moved up a bit so the rear wheels are centered in the wheel wells. Had to cut the front portion of the rear wheel tubs out, for tire clearance. Then I’ll patch in some sheet styrene to make it look nice again. Its a bit of work but well worth it. Also I would recommend a new intake manifold from a Missing Link. The engine will look far more correct with it over the kit supplied manifold. But this all depends on where you want to go with it. I’ll use the entire kit parts as supplied when I decide build the Color Me Gone Car. I don’t plan on really getting serious on that build. Hope this helps.
  12. Thanks ...No, not really Al. Just painted it a lighter blue, added a white stripe on the seats, and detailed the dash a bit.
  13. Yes, the Lindberg chassis. Ive bought up a Color Me Gone kits, and they really aren’t that expensive. I also have a couple more max wedge cars coming up. A 62 Savoy, and a 63 Dodge 330, both resin bodies. I also have a JoHan 62 Fury, but I might hold onto that for a while.
  14. Did your last couple of pics not load? I can’t see them. I can only see the “before” interior tub. Unless it’s something on my end.
  15. Those door panels are a work of art, Steve. That flocking sets them off nice. I do that rod trick on way too many shocks... Lol
  16. Started working on another max wedge car. I trimmed the rear floor pan, and cut out the rear wheel tubs, so I could move the leaf springs forward. Got the wheels centered in the wells. I plan on glueing some thin sheet styrene back into the wells. Pretty much the same route as the 63 Fury. Still using Fireball rims, but I decided to go with Speed City 9” grooved cheater slicks. I know they are not legal for the era, but they fill the rear wells nice. Fireball Carter AFBs, and a Missing Link manifold will be added., Still want to get the ride height higher all the way around. Using a 15 inch tire in front, as compared to a 14, so it should look better sitting higher, with a larger tire. Plan on a red on red color, with fender well headers in this one. I have a lot of work ahead yet.,
  17. Thanks everyone. I appreciate the replies. Yes, the rear wheel wells, and the removal of the trim along the lower body are the only body mods, besides the hood. Pretty much converted a GTX to a Roadrunner.
  18. Fireball Modelworks. Carter AFB 750. Part# FMR-083
  19. Thanks everyone. There are some great builders on this forum, and I really appreciate the positive replies.
  20. Thanks everyone. The hood, and the front bench seat are from Hart’s Parts. The rims and tires, and drag radials are Fireball. Actually the hood fit really nice. Just some minor clean up around the scoop openings, and that was about it. Sounds like a plan Snake. I always keep my eyes open for a decent price JoHan Kit.
  21. Thank you Steve. I have the templates in my parts bin for the 68 pro street RR I plan on doing down the road.
  22. Finally finished the Fury. A few mistakes I’m sure the Mopar enthusiasts will notice quick. The carbs I do believe should be aluminum color, and I also forgot to scribe the groove that separates the front fenders from the rocker panel. Over all I’m happy with the way it turned out. I will consider this car as “practice” for the next three coming up.
  23. Had this done for a little while. Finally took a few pics along with the 63 Plymouth max wedge. As I was adding the decals, I noticed a chip in the paint on the trunk. Soooo I had to put a dab of paint on it, and tried to hide it the best I could. That’s why the trunk decal is not in the groove, but above it, to try and hide the chip. Thanks Ed Flunk for taking the time to make the templates from your JoHan body, so my rear wheel wells look more correct. I really appreciate it.
  24. Ahhh ok I get ya. I see what what the problem is. I pulled out mine, and it looks odd as compared to the real car. I’ll most likely leave it the way it is though.
  25. Looking real good John. I kept checking to see your other Ford projects, but I see you got the itch to build some Mopars. I’ve been building a few myself. Those engines look great so far. Can’t wait to see them fully detailed.
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