Brutalform

Thanks for the replies. Painted the chassis and started weathering it all with water color paints. Not too crazy with it, just wanted to get the engine area more dirty than the rest. Will do more tomorrow so I can get rid of some brush strokes.

I have the front spring finally, and after I get the cab totally finished, I can start painting, and weathering the frame, and suspension. The passenger side door decal literally fell apart in the water. At least the company name decal is on the door. After the drivers side accessories are dry, then it’s onto the passenger side.

Looks fantastic!! When are starting on mine? All jokes aside, you are doing a really nice job on this. I wish I could work with metal like that.

I put my phone on silent, but never answer. It would be nice to have a bit of fun with them, but by answering, they know they have a live number, and puts them a step closer to getting more info.

I hear ya..I get messages from… Wells Fargo. No account with them. Geek Squad. No account with them. Paypal. No account with them. So they just keep trying anything, hoping someone will bite.

One good thing about using epoxy over CA glue, for me anyway, is the ease of removal of the dried epoxy. Not sure if all epoxy’s are created equal, and have the same characteristics for removal, but I like the 5 min Z Poxy. Been using it for years.

Since some of my texts and emails seem to be getting g close to who I do business with, whether it be a coincidence or not, I put a lock on my credit report so nothing can be purchased or opened unless they notify me.

This should be a really cool build. These kits had some terrible tires. I had the 55 Sportsman kit, and the tires were so bad, that sanding did nothing, as they were not molded correctly. Revell did send me a new set after I sent them a pic of before and after the sanding. This was years ago though. With the low roof, maybe a full on drag car?

Like others have stated, BSI gold, won’t fog chrome or clear parts. And the Zap A Gap glue is great for filling in gaps, and also some sink marks. After it dries, it can be sanded smooth.

Testing, or not testing, which I normally do on used sprue, has nothing to do with it. From my experience since I tried it, the spray chrome simply can’t handle certain things applied to it, as kit supplied chrome would. For me, I think I’ll just continue to use the black base under alclad.

After applying some accent, it removes the chrome. So now the rims will be stripped again. A lot of wasted money stripping $35 chrome!

I understand. I’m beginning to think I wasted over $30 on it. I stripped and spray chromed some Kenworth wheels, and stripped them again, and re sprayed them. It seems you can’t get a nice chrome finish without going with a heavy coat or two. Plus I don’t know how the chrome spray will react when I add some accent to tone down the chrome when fully dry. With the old black based alclad, I always got a nice shiny coat, with a very light mist coat. Also I never had to apply accent to tone the chrome down. I think I’m going to stay with the alclad.

Thanks Brian. The bumper, pull handles and mirrors, stacks and wheels are the only chrome. I still might remove the Revell chrom spray from the wheels, and paint those orange as well. All depends on how good I can darken the chrome. Since I never tried it on chrome spray, only kit chrome, it will be an experiment.

I’m pretty new to clearing over decals also. I only did one car, a 68 Chevelle. I plan on clearing a next gen nascar when I’m done with the decals. Mr Hobby Gloss UV Cut is what I used over Tamiya lacquers. Perhaps a bit of water remained under the decal?

Finally some color.

Man, that rig sits nice. Very cool.

Tested the gray primer and the orange paint on a piece of sprue. The color is exactly what I was looking for. Cab is all primed, and later tonight, it will have some color.

Thank Jurgen. Decided to do a tan and brown interior. Mixed it up with Light Tan, and Wooden Deck Tan. The interior tub is Red Brown. I think it should look good with an orange cab. Added some burnt rust to the exhaust side of the turbo. Touched up the wash a bit too on the engine.

Thanks Brian and Gary. I thought I kinda over did it, forgetting the “less is better than more” concept.

That’s funny. I did actually start to finish up some of my drag cars I had laying around, but then it always happens…. You start dreaming up new things.

Very nice work going on here, Gary. I’m glad the lights are gonna work out for you. Maybe I can pick up a few ideas from your build, for my next one.

I can finally say all the parts have the flash, and seams removed, are sanded, and are ready for primer and paint.

While waiting on the front spring, I started to move onto the cab and interior. Gotta double check, or even triple check everything on this ole AMT kit. Added some rust to the exhaust pipes, that lead to the stacks.

I stripped my Kenworth chrome wheels, and applied the Revell Chrom spray. I let them sit for 36 hrs, and when I handled them it left fingerprints. 91% alcohol stripped the spray chrome off easily. We shall see after it sits for 48 hrs this time. Nothing is printed on the can that I can understand. Hopefully 48 will be long enough.