Brutalform

They look right on to my eyes. I built a Pontiac Super Duty and used some Pro Tech aluminum hex fittings, and some Evergreen rod, and they came out ok I suppose. I think it was the Pontiac steel rims that made them look a little weird. But I was lucky enough to get some RBM lugs before he closed up, and took a break.

I can’t wait to see the final results. Paint work is impressive.

Thanks Kevin. You know, I was considering the Cragars as I have a nice fat rear set, but no fronts to accompany them. I did have a complete set of the Centerlines, so I was just gonna use them. I appreciate your input, as I have bought quite a few of Scott’s aluminum drag rims, but never even thought about checking out his resin sets. Reason being is, I have a whole storage case full of resins, but not this style. So I’m gonna buy a set or two of his resin rims for this build. Your wheels look great. Did you use RB Motion lugs and studs on yours?

Very nice paint work. Yes, those Tamiya tapes are the bomb. That engine looks great too, Bill.

I finally finished this build for my brother in law. I ran into a few problems with the decals. First off, there was crease in the kits decal sheet, and Salvinos JR promptly sent me a new sheet. This worked out great, as I had the drivers side “Hendrick” back too far, and it would have been covered by the fuel filler decal, as the sail panels were incorrectly applied also. You must insert the decaled rear windows to make sure the sail panels line up with them as well as the rear roof decal. The front fascia decals were very challenging to say the least. And they still aren’t right to my eye. I definitely learned a thing or two for my next nascar build. The only thing I didn’t like is the passenger side window is too big to fit in the frame. I didn’t think to check it before adding the decals, so it’s gonna have to stay this way. Two coats of Mr Hobby clear after a mild wash with soap and water.

Nice to see this car under glass. All the tedious work you put into this really paid off. It took a while, but was totally worth it.

Fantastic job on the rear seats, and the entire interior! Very realistic looking engine detailing. I agree with the others, that the Thunderbolt is one of my favorites also. I’ve built 14 of them, pretty much because I had enough decals to build that many.

Also the rear differential carrier should be painted red oxide, or similar, on a Thunderbolt, or other 60s Fords.

Not yet Tim. I got involved with a Kenworth and a NASCAR build, and set that one aside for now. I plan on getting back to it real soon though. Now it’s time for the build, as the cutting, and patch work is completed on it.

I was wondering if anyone has treated the clear windows that have decals, with Future? Would this be a good idea? I’m worried they might try to come off down the road.

Been working on a Kenworth, but I took a break, and turned to this one to get finished up. The decals are SO time consuming. Pretty much put a decal on, drench it with Mark Fit Strong, and let it dry overnight. Then do another decal or two, and repeat the process all over again. All that’s left, is a cleaning, and a clear coat or two, and put the glass in, and this one is done.

Thanks for the replies. Painted the chassis and started weathering it all with water color paints. Not too crazy with it, just wanted to get the engine area more dirty than the rest. Will do more tomorrow so I can get rid of some brush strokes.

I have the front spring finally, and after I get the cab totally finished, I can start painting, and weathering the frame, and suspension. The passenger side door decal literally fell apart in the water. At least the company name decal is on the door. After the drivers side accessories are dry, then it’s onto the passenger side.

Looks fantastic!! When are starting on mine? All jokes aside, you are doing a really nice job on this. I wish I could work with metal like that.

I put my phone on silent, but never answer. It would be nice to have a bit of fun with them, but by answering, they know they have a live number, and puts them a step closer to getting more info.

I hear ya..I get messages from… Wells Fargo. No account with them. Geek Squad. No account with them. Paypal. No account with them. So they just keep trying anything, hoping someone will bite.

One good thing about using epoxy over CA glue, for me anyway, is the ease of removal of the dried epoxy. Not sure if all epoxy’s are created equal, and have the same characteristics for removal, but I like the 5 min Z Poxy. Been using it for years.

Since some of my texts and emails seem to be getting g close to who I do business with, whether it be a coincidence or not, I put a lock on my credit report so nothing can be purchased or opened unless they notify me.

This should be a really cool build. These kits had some terrible tires. I had the 55 Sportsman kit, and the tires were so bad, that sanding did nothing, as they were not molded correctly. Revell did send me a new set after I sent them a pic of before and after the sanding. This was years ago though. With the low roof, maybe a full on drag car?

Like others have stated, BSI gold, won’t fog chrome or clear parts. And the Zap A Gap glue is great for filling in gaps, and also some sink marks. After it dries, it can be sanded smooth.

Testing, or not testing, which I normally do on used sprue, has nothing to do with it. From my experience since I tried it, the spray chrome simply can’t handle certain things applied to it, as kit supplied chrome would. For me, I think I’ll just continue to use the black base under alclad.

After applying some accent, it removes the chrome. So now the rims will be stripped again. A lot of wasted money stripping $35 chrome!

I understand. I’m beginning to think I wasted over $30 on it. I stripped and spray chromed some Kenworth wheels, and stripped them again, and re sprayed them. It seems you can’t get a nice chrome finish without going with a heavy coat or two. Plus I don’t know how the chrome spray will react when I add some accent to tone down the chrome when fully dry. With the old black based alclad, I always got a nice shiny coat, with a very light mist coat. Also I never had to apply accent to tone the chrome down. I think I’m going to stay with the alclad.

Thanks Brian. The bumper, pull handles and mirrors, stacks and wheels are the only chrome. I still might remove the Revell chrom spray from the wheels, and paint those orange as well. All depends on how good I can darken the chrome. Since I never tried it on chrome spray, only kit chrome, it will be an experiment.

I’m pretty new to clearing over decals also. I only did one car, a 68 Chevelle. I plan on clearing a next gen nascar when I’m done with the decals. Mr Hobby Gloss UV Cut is what I used over Tamiya lacquers. Perhaps a bit of water remained under the decal?