Brutalform

I know the decals are different in some of the ROG kits. I bought a used 68 Chevelle kit on eBay, so I can get the correct color SS stripes I needed for a WIP. Now you have me thinking… I’ll have to look to see if this particular kit has anything else different.

Just used the last of the Alclad spray lacquer, so I ordered a can of the Revell spray. I suppose it’s a good thing to buy with Christmas money. One thing with the Alclad spray can, is the bottom gets beat up pretty good from shaking it. I’m afraid it might explode. So I’m gonna try the Revell spray now. I’m sure I’ll be happy with it, after reading what everyone says about it. I suppose when you figure in a gloss black under the Alclad, the Revell really isn’t too much more expensive. I don’t mind spending a little more on a quality product.

These are paper belts from Pro Tech colored with a Sharpie. Just a tiny dab of Bob Smith CA glue is what works for me.

I also masked up and painted the blue and pinstripes on the Melrose Missile car. After foiling and decals, this one can be assembled. The interior and chassis are pretty much finished now.

Been down with a cold, but I finally got some silver on the Landy car.

I’ve had great results with Vallejo Air. The only reason I use the Air over their regular acrylics, is the Air is thinned as I don’t need to add water. I pretty much stay away from the Tamiya acrylic in the jars, for the most part. I understand that these are not really meant to be brushed on anyway, but I have had good results adding a retarder to the Tamiya jar paints.

Exactly. At that point in his video, when the a pillars were bent, and he said they can be straightened out with hot water, etc, I tuned the video off. $60 isn’t expensive, but isn’t inexpensive either. Still that’s an issue that makes me pass on a kit. Thanks to Chris for posting that video, because I was seriously considering purchasing it. I never had a decal go on correctly, with a fold going right through the decal on the paper either.

Could be the Krylon.

Well said, Gerry. More than one way to get the job done. As you mentioned about imperfections, I had to re apply the black and chrome on these bumpers. I didn’t noticed I nicked the surface with the saw in one side. But as soon as the chrome was applied, it really stuck out.

Just like any part, let it dry. I’ve had an issue before with a fingerprint, but, it was my fault that I handled it too soon. It’s nothing like Molotow ink, as I only use that to touch up where a chrome part was attached to a sprue. That ink doesn’t take handling too well, and I hardly use it. These stacks were handled to add black paint inside, and no problems, because they sat for 24 hrs. Also I don’t have an airbrush, so this is what I use when I need to have a part chromed. I’d like to try the Revell spray sometime, but it’s a bit out of my price range.

Yes. I’ve been using it for years. Even though it’s labeled for Lexan, it works just fine, after stripping the chrome off of parts, and using a gloss black or blue base. Looks way more realistic than the kit supplied chrome. These stacks were stripped and were sprayed with it.

I’ve seen it for $30ish. I can’t break down and buy it though, when I’ve been using this for years. Only $17 shipped. And it lasts a long time.

Me either. But unfortunately we live in world today that if someone came up with the cure for cancer, half the public would embrace it, and the other half would moan about it. My advice is if you really don’t like something then flip right on by. But some individuals unfortunately do not understand that concept. People we is not wrapped tight.

Also, enlarge these areas circled a little with a sanding stick, or it will not fit flush with the floor. And that will throw the door panels off. Other than that it’s straight forward.

I only built the white car so far, and I have the Melrose Missile all finished except for the blue color on the body and foil, and decals. The only thing I can say is, check the glass, as it goes in from the outside. I encountered a bit of a problem with the foil on the rear window, as I was slipping the completed chassis into the body. Just a quick touch up fixed it. The model will fit into the body pretty tight, so make sure the rear bumper is installed prior to slipping it in. The rear bumper helps support the rear tail light section. I did this without the rear bumper in place, and had to re glue the edges as it tried to come apart. Hope this helps Bill.

Yea, I tested it on some old styrene, with the gray Tamiya primer under it, and it looks pretty close to the real cars color. It’s the only silver I tried.

The dash has the glove box removed and added some sheet styrene in its place. Will add a couple gauges like the real car has.

Removed the chrome from the rear bumpers, and injection stacks, and sprayed them with Alclad chrome. Also plan on adding a more realistic grill.

I have the body in primer now, with the panel lines deepened. And a few other things completed. The engine had the manual trans removed, and an automatic from the 68 Hemi Dart added. Also got a set of resin rims as close as I could find that look like the real rims.

Bought some decals from Slixx and will be masking off for the black roof and hood and trunk areas after the silver is laid down. The decals have the striping that compliments the black areas with curved stripes for the hood and trunk lids.

I’m really looking forward to building the Landy Dodge. I got a good jump on it now, and plan on painting it Tamiya Gloss Aluminum as it looks pretty good to my eye over gray primer.

I finished up the 65 Plymouth white car, and the only thing I screwed up on, was forgetting to install the side windows. At least you can see the interior better, so no big deal. Moving on to the Landy Dodge now. One problem I encountered while mocking things up, was the parachute does not fit right on the Dodge as it does on the Plymouth. Since Landys Dodge has a split bumper and a different chute altogether, no big deal here. A couple pics of the Plymouth.

Another fine automobile build Steve. I’ve been looking at all that under hood, and chassis detail, and it just blows me away to see the time and work you put into this project. Amazing.

I enjoy watching some particular YouTube videos, especially when there isn’t anything else on the TV. ( I hardly ever watch them on my phone.) I enjoy Frank’s Modeling, and hearing his Long Island accent, also The International Modeler is another one I enjoy. These guys are pretty advanced builders in my opinion. Recently I was checking out The Muscle car Modeler, because I came across his AWB builds, that I happened to be doing myself. I just wanted to see how he decided to build his, and he also gave some history on the AWB cars from back in the day. Same with Luka Cee. I really enjoyed his next gen NASCAR from Salvinos he was doing, because I was building one also. And I did get a few pointers from that video, because I really don’t do any NASCAR stuff, and this model is outside what I normally build. There are a lot of good channels out there, and I guess it all depends what you are looking for. But then again, there are some hackers out there too. I’ve seen some videos that show how to build a horrible looking model. For the most part, I pretty much just watch them for entertainment instead of getting info on how to build a car.

I was almost positive you have done this build before, and now I see this thread was from a while ago. See, Niko, your 409 Nicholson build is etched in my mind forever. All kidding aside though, can’t wait to see more.