Brutalform

For me, I never pin parts that are large enough to be pinned, like door mirrors, or door handles. But what I have been using for a long time, is watch crystal cement. I never have had a part fall off using it. You don’t need much, so it wont seep out, and as soon as the part touches the car with the cement, it stays put.

HPIGuy (Chris) did a build on this Nomad. All same tooling. Kit has some real issues. But, can be built into a nice car if you are willing to put a lot of extra work into it.

Good to hear Dennis. After thinking about it, and already having the Dana rear already cut and added to the springs, I was planning on skipping the ladder bar set up. Your build sounds like it’s almost done. I would like to see pics when it’s completed.

Probably not too well known, but she was the cute girl in Eurotrip, that had a twin brother in the film. She passed away several days ago. She recently had a liver transplant, and was only 39. No official word on the cause of death. Pretty sad to be so young.

I always like the song “Frankenstein” by The Dolls. Was never really a Buster fan. I remember when MTV was pretty new, and he did a small medley of songs from the Animals under his real name. I thought that was pretty cool.

Thanks, I think I have all the parts I need for this set up in my bin.

Thanks. Well that changes everything. I did graft a Dana differential I robbed from the AWB kit, onto the springs. I also started piecing in some styrene sheet pieces I cut out to fit the tires. I do have a Futurattraction ladder bar set in my bin. After everything was dry, I was going to do new frame pieces, and wheel wells. At least removing the springs and adding the ladder bars will not be difficult.

Thanks Bill. Much appreciated info. Sometimes it’s hard to find info on these old racers.

I’ll use one of the spare rears from the Hemi Dart kit. Trying to find out if this car had an 8.75, or a Dana? I might have it mocked up tomorrow.

I guess it’s time to break out the Butcher Leal California Flash Plymouth. From the pictures I’ve found of this car, it seems to have been mini tubbed? Or was it always like this from the first times it’s been raced? But, anyway, I plan on building the version with the big tires on the rear. Still not sure if I want to paint the car white, and mask off for the orange, or just use the decals. I started to hack the rear floor pan, and removing the fuel tank, to move the springs inward to fit a set of Futurattraction slicks.

Thanks for the replies. I posted it in the Drag Racing section as it’s finally completed.

I finished the Chevelle up this morning. It’s a really nice kit. I probably should have built the front suspension out from the mounting points, instead of making those thick, ugly, silver things connected to the front rims. Maybe next time I’ll do it different. It’s my first time incorporating aftermarket aluminum turned rims to a build. Even with all the hacking I did, the kit pretty much just falls together still. Seats, and carburetor, wheels, and tires are Futurattraction. Fuel lines and fittings are Pro Tech. Maybe I’ll move on to the 69 Chevelle soon. But that one will be a factory stock.

These morons with this new PayPal Doc Sign scam are so stupid, they make it obvious it’s a scam. I get like four of them in a row in my mail inbox. I’d think only one would suffice. I keep marking them junk, but somehow they still get through. I get them like once or twice a week. And there is always more than one.

Very nice Dodge. I hear ya on the windows. Especially the rear window.

Pretty sweet looking Ponco. I love just about any 1960 era cars.

Check out Futurattraction. Scott sells the lever style latch harness that NASCAR cars use.

Laid down several mist coats, and one heavy coat of Mr Hobby UV cut clear. I really think I just might get away without wet sanding and polising. This clear lays down really nice. I wanted to use a clear that was less harsh on decals. I’ve read the Tamiya clear is hit or miss, but only heard good things about the Mr Hobby clear. I’ve never cleared over any decals before this.

WILKES-BARRE — OK, we haven’t traveled in the Way Back Machine for a few weeks, so let’s go! Destination again is the 1960s and, of course, Plymouth, Pa. — or it could be just about any small town in America. Today, as we hover, we are looking for a hobby shop — I seem to remember a Jack’s Hobby Center in the Narrows Shopping Center and Dick’s Hobby Shop on South Main Street in Wilkes-Barre. We are going to stop and pick up a few model car kits — I think Revell made some cool ones. Once we purchase our model kits, we head back to my house and down to the basement. I miss the basement in our house on Reynolds Street — and the front porch, and the creek behind the house. Our basement was functional — it housed our big coal furnace. On one side of our basement was an apartment. It was vacant most of my younger years, so my pals and I would use it to build models — my favorite was a 1940 Ford which I would always paint candy-apple red. I would also add white trim and a rumble seat. Painting those models was tedious — you really had to have a steady hand and you had to be careful to use just the right amount of glue. I wish I could bring all those awesome cars of the 1960s back. Remember when you could immediately tell a car’s make and model on sight? Today, it seems most everybody drives a white SUV and they all look the same. Where’s the creativity? Back in the ‘60s, man those cars were spectacular. Cars like GTOs, Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes, Road Runners, Dodge Darts, Chevelles, Barricudas, Thunderbirds, Beetles, Ramblers, Studebakers, Corvairs, Pintos, Furys, Marlins, Gremlins, Mavericks, Cougars, Impalas, Fairlanes, Cutlasses, Continentals, Galaxys, El Dorados, Cordobas, LeSabres, Biscaynes, BelAirs and many more. They were so distinctive. And the color combinations were amazing — not to mention the power under the hood. Those cars were fascinating and fun — and it was cool to buy the model car kit and assemble and paint your favorite. We enjoyed our times in the basement — especially during those hot days of summer, because it was always cool down in the basement. And everybody had a basement. Some were turned into rathskellers where adults would gather for parties — you know, away from the kids, who were upstairs watching cartoons on the black-and-white Admiral TV with rabbit ears. And the adults would drink beers and high balls and play cards. There would be chips and dip and pretzels — lots of pretzels. Some people had real fancy basements — early versions of man caves that had a small bar with goofy decorations, like a clock that told time backwards, or a dart board or a jukebox. And when house parties moved back to living rooms with the arrival of fondue parties and Trivial Pursuit, basements managed to evolve. They became exercise rooms with treadmills and free weights. This happened just in time as fast food restaurants changed the eating habits of families and added calories in never-seen-before numbers. But nowadays, most residential units are built on slabs — no basements — garages, yes, which oddly become storage units and the cars are left in the driveway or on the street. And as basements disappear, front porches are nearing extinction as well. People don’t seem to value sitting on their front porches as the world goes by. And chatting with the neighbors is also on the endangered list. Neighborhoods just ain’t what they used to be. People leave their homes in the morning, head to work, find a happy hour for a bit, grab a to-go dinner and head home for an evening of watching TV. Parents rush to get their kids to sporting events or dances or other activities, drop them off, then do some shopping before picking the kids up and back home. Probably in their white SUV. I wish we had cell phones back in the ‘60s. We coulda taken so many great pics and stored them and shared them. But maybe it’s better that we gather and tell stories. I just wish we could meet in the basement.

I get the vapors of certain chemicals and paints can be hazardous, but when I read that a flying part can “ pierce a persons vein or chest cavity” I call BS. No way a small model part can achieve the velocity to cause that kind of injury. Besides i would build a model any day before I sky dive, or go deep water diving any day.

Thanks. Did a little on it today. Just have to decide if I want to clear the body and decals, or just foil it as it is. After that, all that’s left is hooking up the fuel system.

Thanks for the suggestion. I didn’t try heat as of yet. I do have an electric space heater, that actually does an excellent job of warming the lacquer paint cans. And it’s adjustable. If I must use heat, I’m gonna give it a go. Salvinos is sending me a new sheet, because this one had a crease on the # 5 door decal. So now I can redo the rear roof decal, because that was put on first, when I should have temporarily installed the side windows, with decals, and then the sail panel decals, to properly match the rear roof decal. This is definitely a learning experience.

Yea, I noticed this. I would definitely like to do one of each car maker in the future.

Yes, Niko those 61 Impala kits are a pretty nice kit. I never had any problems with excessive body work with them. I still have one in the stash that I’m looking forward to starting now.

Thanks, Tony, Tim, and Anton. Did a little more work on the Chevelle last night and today. Now, I’m starting to doubt clearing over the decals. I’ve never cleared over them before, and I’m afraid I’ll mess them up. It took few coats of Micro Sol to get the hood stripes to lay down. I’ve heard some people wash the body, with the decals on, in warm, soapy, water, and let dry. Then mist the decals in very light coats of clear. I’m feeling kind of reluctant to doing this. Anyone have any pointers on performing this? I plan on using Mr Hobby gloss clear, as it’s not as harsh on them as Tamiya.