Bugace

I love big fast cars.

Now I look forward to see the BRAT. Cause there is no doubt You have the determination for some wild builds. Stay with it.

I was very close to using a O ring as well, but then decided to use this. As it will be standing veritcally, the misshape will not be that visual. Also needed the practice.

It looks as a must have, with flaws and all. Guess someone will issue the tires in Resin soon, so that is no worry. Forsure find some other rod to use the kit tires on. Actually, the tires and wheels are worth half the kit alone.

That old Gunze kit, is the same as Airfix did as well(I'm not sure if it was in MPC's lineup as well). That kit was made with the possibillity to put a battery operated engine in them. Even less parts. So if the masterbuilder started with that old kit, he did one very good job making this master. Anyway I wish one of these, and hope for some nice detailkits for it, so I could build it full detail. Now I need to secure a old Monogram Mustang, engine, and maybe Fujimis Ford GT40 as well.

That's clean. Can't find a flaw. Incredible work done.

That is two very nice Fords. Can't tell which one I like the best, they are both appealing.

I'm amazed. Thank You for shareing!

Thats a nice build. It's refreshing not needing to do that extra now and then.

Lovely! I almost see a rascal skidding down the rearwindow.

The Monogram AC must be one of the best modelkits out there. Those that have yet too build one, have something too look forward to. This was my first try on the kit, but off course, I did it non stock. I moved the cabin all the way up front, on top of the engine, and in front of the radiator. Look closely, and You will see that I've used most of the kits hood, just flattened it, and mounted it verically. I scratched a new ring arround the M logo, as I think that was the weakest point in the kit. Carveing the M out was a bit tidius, but it was worth it. I scratched the flatbed from styrene, using only some brasstubing as supports for the long stacks. I imagined this truck at a cotton farm, or sugarcane farm, or something simular. Some more pictures here: http://public.fotki.com/bugace/plastic-modelbuilding/my-finished-builds/mack-ac-coe/

Hi! Some might use Tamiya one compound filler. A cheaper alternative is Sikkens Kombi Filler. It seem to be the very same stuff, as it attachs to the plastic in the same way, and dries as fast. Only that Sikkens is red, versus Tamiyas grey. The tube I have are 200 grams, and it doesn't cost much more then the Tamiya tube. I guess other companies delivering autopaints, also makes one coumpound fillers. Check them out, if You not are betweene those always using two compound. I'm one of those builders who not paint the body before I have managed to fit everything proparly. Still it is the body I begin sanding, and where needed adding filler too, first in a project. This way it sets proparly, not having that risk for shrinkage, before I finally add primer, and paint.

I've scratched new leafspring up front, as well as shocks. The shocks are glued in place, as I need them as guid for the headlight/shock supports. The redone front mean it is slightly longer, and lower. Both beeing a positive thing for the stance in my opinion. Now steeringlinkage have to be modified. Also making the supports up front, and adding all the chassis details. As I wish all these details in one color, it is not long before a carefull wash, and paint. Then I can consentrat on the engine.

That is one nice T-Bird Ron. Think I just have to to do a fourdoor '71 as well.

We never know if something will look good, or bad, before someone dare too try. Sometimes things comes out suprisingly well. So bring it on.

Hi guys! Before I wen't into a total darkness, modelbuilding drought, I started on a whole buch of projects. Some will probably never be finished, but others diserves progress. One of the projects I like the most is this stock Fiat Topolino. I began with a resincasting of the Revell partsbox body. Using Revells Beetle Convertible fenders as basis for scratching Fiat fenders. Scratcing, as the Beetles fenders are way too wide. Here is my problem. The Revell grill was not close enough to beeing a correct stock grill. I had to remove it. What I have is a rather frail surrounding for the grill it self. How do I attack this problem? My self might think using different sheet styrene, putting those that will be the grill ribbs, away from some used as steering the distance betweene them. A kind of laminating thats allows me to shape the grill ribbs when put together. Then somehow manage to remove the ribs from the distance pieces, with the ribbs intact. Other ideas I don't have. PLEASE, You top scratchbuilders, help me out. AND SORRY, BUT THE R&R VERSION IS NOT ACCEPTABLE.

Not the craysiest swap, consider it is a euro. But from a 1.7, to a 5.6 liter, it was a some surgery that was needed. The kit is the old Heller/Airfix, and the engine is from Tamiyas 560 SEC. Sorry for not having a decent picture with out the hood off. I saw a Honda four in a A further up. I put a Quad Four in a '25 Roadster. I project in the planning. It seems as it will work. Ferrari Boxer 12 in AirTrax VW T3.

Lovely car, and very, very, well excuted build up, of the kit.

It is the 1911 prototype. This one: The first prototype ended beeing the Little Four Roadster, not using the Chevrolet name. Also learned something more yesterday. My nose might be to big, as I was reading the old story from the 1993, about the 1911 kit, and Mike Watgen. At the very top right corner, there was a picture of the front side of the instruction sheet. So I have seen that one. . Thereby the nature just added another pinch, telling me I'm getting older. I'll see if I can take some decent pictures, or scanns of those pages I have, but I'm affraid the pictures are a bit to small, and the screening too rough, thereby don't allow for bigger good pictures.

It have to be. The pictures I have, shows the C Cab delivery from the side, and the Touring(parts layed out) from top, and side(unpainted resincasting put together). There it looks as the hood is far bigger then on the Little 4 Roadsters. My friend, whom also is a writer for a swedish car magazine, visited Mike Watgen after he had began the castings of the 1911 Chevy. Mike went away about half a year after launching the 1911 Chevy prototype, May 1. 1993. No one now how many castings Mike did, but Mike might be the one who knew the most about the original SMP castings. The idea was that SMP should launch the 1911 Chevy, and the 1962 Chevy at the same time. But SMP got into problems, as alredy after the 50 first testcastings, the mould showed heavely wear. They made the mould out of aluminium, insted of steel. The instructionsheets was alredy printed for the kits, but they was never issued. Chevrolet wasn't interested in poor castings with theire name on, and they didn't invested in new steelmoulds. This probably because there was no time, as the deadline was to short. No, the story don't tell how many "promos" was made, or if these was going to be made from the same moulds, but I will think so. So the question that is left. Was there only made 50 testshots of this model, and nothing more? I'm going to ask Fred Sterns if he know which color the ones he was offered was. I've only seen black ones pictured, except Mikes in pale resin. I've never seen a box, and I've never seen pictures of the instructions that was made. Also that is a question for Fred.

Nice. Remembering a '76 LT from my younger days. That very car set the standard for all '70s Camaro I've seen thereafter. For years it looked as new, and the LT's has always interested me more then the Z28's. Would love to see those wirewheels in scale.

If going Stock, I think Candy Apple Red wil be the one.

Mild custom. But have yet to choose color, and wheels. As I have a old donorcar, I will probably buy a one more body, doing a detailed one as well. I will also see how the '71 front, and rear, fits on this body.

Now! Anyone that will scratch the engine?

It's look real to me, but then I know that so does many other modelcars. I guess 1/8, or bigger, scalemodel.