vwdave92

that story gave me a nice smile

Cobra do you put the tape down THEN shoot the clear? I've done that… tape, clear, second color, remove tape… cuts bleeding WAY down. As for taping over the nail polish… as long as the surface was clean and well primed you shouldn't have any issues with the paint lifting. I use Tamiya's tape for small or complex areas and 3M's green automotive tape for big areas. HTH Dave

I brush with acrylics exclusively and have shot all of the testors lacquer (dull, semi and various gloss) as well as Tamiya's gloss and matt clears with no issues. Both Testors and Tamiya acrylics. For spraying bodies it's almost all testors and or tamiya rattle cans. I've also shot ScaleFinishes acrylic ready to sprays and put lacquer of the top. Acrylics dry FAST so don't let your brushes sit out. Plus side is, paint, wait and hour, clear. I avoid enamels at all cost. Just not worth the hassle. As a side not Tamiya's clear acrylic in a bottle is perfect for attaching photo etch parts or other small items in highly visible areas and makes GREAT gauge lenses

I haven't tried the clear but I've used the sandable primer on the last two cars I've done and really like it. It's heavy but it is VERY nice to work with over body work… easy to work down and fills in pits and pin holes nicely. I'm on the testors wet look clear. It's easy to find, not really expensive and SUPER bright. Plus it levels out really well… easy to use. With either I recommend letting them soak in a hot tap water for 5 min or so to warm the paint up. thins it out and make is go on much smoother.

Hey that's that 500SL V8 powered my 300sl Cannonball rig!! Good looking lump and the car is ugly as all get out so using the kit for just the engine is all alright

I've used the testors kit and had good luck. Few tricks I have learned... test run your stuff on photo paper or just plain white paper first... run the decal paper through on printer setting for the high grade photo paper let the ink dry OVER NIGHT. If you try to seal it too soon it will run. let the sealer dry at least over night or a couple of days. Like so many things I end up doing twice it's usually because I rushed the first job. I was able to cure mine with Micor- Set and Micro-Sol just like any other decals but I would run some spare images and test them before you try to apply them or use any solutions on them. For the motorcycle below I scanned the cartograph decals then rebuild my images over the top so the sizes would be correct. In many cases the sponsor logos were white and I needed black. I was very happy with the results.

Oh nice to see someone has tried the liquid tape. I'm going to have to grab some of that. I'm with the blue poster tac that you can get about everywhere. I also keep an egg of silly puddy for the same job as well as masking complex parts for spray painting.

WOW… I really wasn't expecting a response LOL. Let alone someone else crazy enough to pull it off. I cut the body at the end of the roof line and the in front of the fin which is part of the X-11 package. I guess I'll just start scratching until I have something. I'll get some progress pictures up in a couple of days. Truth is I started this a few years ago but just didn't have the chops… I'm thinking maybe skill wise I'll be able to get it now...

Wow that is a great looking build. You're right, the box for that kit is AWEFUL. I love the factory slant nose 930s but I've always skipped that car because the box looks so bad. You did a great job! If you're looking to strip chrome bleach works great. I just bought the one gallon of clorox and keep it under my bench. Throw the parts in a small throwaway zip lock box, stir to make sure the parts are all coated and wait over night. Keep up the good work!

1. 1992 - 1994 VW Corrado SLC (revell made the G60 but not the SLC and they cost a TON if you can find them) 2. McLaren SLR - Sterling Moss. I'd take a nice trans kit for this 3. Ducati 1098 or similar recent Duc - COME ON Tamiya you OWN this market PLEEEEEEEEASE 4. New VW Scirrocco 5. Ford F150 SVT Raptor

I'm with the guys that build almost everything. I tend to buy on emotion or opportunity. I picked up a 1/20 Lamborghini at a show just because I hadn't see the kit in years. There a few kits on my list I would buy if I saw them. Otherwise if it's on a close out shelf or scratch and dent and I'm vaguely interested I'll grab it. Otherwise… when I finish one up I go browse the LHS and see what grabs my eye. Stock - 20ish Build percentage 70ish

OK I know… not really a HOT subject but it was my brother's first car. The kit is a notch back and I need to convert it to a hatch. What are the odds anyone has pulled this off and has some advice? Thanks in advance

Looks great. I so badly want to do one of these with opening doors but afraid to bite that off… LOTS of scratch building to do that. Great JOB!

The dark grey is Audi Daytona Gray - VERY close to tamiya dark gun metal. The lighter grey is Audi Quartz Gray. I picked up both colors from Scale Finishes. www.scalefinishes.com. I was matching a 1:1 Audi R8 a friend owns and this was DEAD ON. Their color matching ability is second to none! They are base acrylic needing a top coat. I use Testors' wet look lacquer out of a can.

WOW guys thanks a ton. I'm overwhelmed couple more pictures... Do you "sign" your models? Everything I build has a "copy" of B.S. Levy's "The Last Open Road" left in it. Here is the shot from the Merc. It's on the parcel shelf in the back window. I just scaled the cover shot down and then printed it on heavy paper to give it some depth. As a final note - If anyone has read this far - I lost my job on August 29. I go back to work next week Nov 13. It has been EXTREMELY stressful. This is how I kept my mind off things. If you're in the same situation, my thoughts and good luck. Thanks again all. Dave

Wow that is the nicest compliment! Thanks everyone!

Well I tried to do a build thread on this thing but I'm just not very good at those. So hear are a few pictures of the finished product. It's the Revell 49 with a RG 454 (bought for a different project), Pegasus wheels, brakes from someplace, solder headers, a handful of random wire, old slixx decals and a resin shifter with a skull on top I found on ebay. Please… comment, discuss etc. If you want pictures of a specific area please feel free to ask. OK… that's enough for now. Hope you like it

while like so many others I'm going to pile on... Kevin is top notch. If he can't get something he will let you know. Would order from him anytime.

2003 VW GTi 20th Anniversary addition. 1/1000 Imola Yellow. 1/4000 Total. Number 1470. This picture is from the day I picked it up 3 years ago.

Um… What is the Revell BBC? Big Block Chevy engine? 70 MC would be great. I have a different engine for that rig anyway...

thanks for the tip Marc. Didn't think of that. I'll talk it through with my guy. Thanks for the tip on the chrome Bob. I have access to the 1:1. I'll be sure to check for those things. Any other tips on possible inaccuracies would be great. Dave

Thanks Marc. I'll hit up Modelhaus for their parts. Grabbed the PE sheet already. It's going to match a 1:1 with 39k original miles. Will sit on a dash or seat or similar while the car is at shows. I'll have a full build thread. Thanks again Dave

I am going to copy a friends 1:1. I searched on this topic and it seems the only kit is the AMT that is out of production. Is there a version of the kit that is better? Different? More accurate? More part options? Thanks in advance. Dave

no engine. interesting. the Tamiya engine was just a top and some details. It was nice really. Still a great kit and your build up looks VERY nice

great work. That kit actually looks nicer than the Tamiya kit I built up. Is it full engine? The carbon looks amazing!