Smart-Resins

Theres does not look any wheres near as cool as this though! The heads look more stock, and the carbs are one piecers and the intake is way different. Thanks. Jody

I want to find a motor like this for my Jimmy Flintstones chopped Altered T. Where can I get one like this? Jody

intombed masters. Now I have had that, even after spraying mold release, but apparently not enough! LOL. actally twice. First time was cool. Second time, was actually not the master, but I did a rubber tires. I sprayed the heck out of the two rubber mold halves, poured my black rubber for the tire. Next day, I had one solid two toned piece. LOL. That killed $20 worth of rubber in a hurry as it was a 1/16 scale slick! LOL. Now for masters, I prefer to keep the masters if I can! But, I have made arrangments with others to send thier masters back. With VW Dave, I sent his back. Now I got more, and this time made a deal to keep them. As for others, I know theres a hood I need to return once I get it done. But sometimes I work at a snails pace who is stuck in molasses in the middle of Feburary in Alaska! LOL. JOdy

I would suggest going online and buying some styrene. That way it is uniform shape and size! >80 equals 2" in 1/25 and .125 equals 3" in 1/25. I used to use tenax 7r, but have found that ambroid pro weld works just as well and you get a slight bit more glue for slightly less. it is available more places and it does not evaporate as much if you tend to leave the top off. I use it on all of my kustom frame work when I do one! Jody

I do not thin mine! I use 30 Lbs pressure and I spray 6-8 inches away. Here is the latest that I sprayed using duplicolor gloss black enamel straight from the can! Jody

Wet in wet. Got it. Time to expiriment! I have shot 20lbs for the last 6 months, but was inconsistant in the painting. Last week I had it on thirty after doing some resin casting and it worked absolutly beautiful! So I tried it a few more times and it has been consistant!! So I finially found my pressure! Also, with the future, I do a wet into tacky! When the first coat starts to tack up, I spray the next coat and it will melt in without running. May look slightly pebbly, but when it dries, it smooths out! I still need to perfect my polishing process, but thats a different story. I think I need to try a clear coat before panting to help things out. This last body, it showed the marks of different plastic blends in the body. Not happy with that. Had to clear then repaint. That was after using filler primer. Though, I should be using my etching primer! LOL. Now your pearls of wisdom is food for thought. Now to buy more laquar thinner and try more expiramenting! I will be getting a ton of paint in, so we will see! Here is my latest job. You can see Im getting there.Thanks. Jody

Terrific job! Jody

great job on that! Jody

So do you have a how to that I may have missed that describes you sure fire methods of painting including the fail safe way of painting laquar over enamel? You knew this would come, so here it is! LOL. Thanks. Jody

Those are great! I think Ill get one that sits it level above the level mirror! Now to find a nice case as well! Jody

Very cool! Jody

I had a problem this morning, but I cleaned my cookies and then it worked fine! Jody

Very cool! Jody

That would be super useful! I oughta google youtube to see if there is anything? I am needing to get used to it so I can mask of this mustang to paint blue flames on it with a black back ground. I will not be doing a reversed paint job. I will be painting the black first this time, then masking aff and painting the flames, then the highlights. I am trying to figure out how to do this and hopefully maybe even have it conform to the hood scoop? Any help? Jody

I just got my first order of parafilm. Trying to use it on my Tin Indian to mask it off so I can touch up my hood where the paint unfportunately peeeled away! I see trying to use it only on the side panels is not working very well. Am I not stretching it enough? However, its ripping in the bottom corners of the wheel wells? Has anyone done a tutorial on how to use parafilm, or describe to me the ins and outs of using it? I know I have read of several poeple swearing by it. Help PLEASE! Jody

Yes, that is my problem and what I am asking for. Thank you. Jody

Hello. I am sure this is a beaten subject, but its my turn to ask. I use Pledge with Future shine on my models, but sometimes end up with small scratches and dust, so I have been using turtle wax. Debating using Mcquires liquid wax. However, wont do much better then the turtle wax. I am looking for something that will help knock out the small scratches ( even from polishing) and dust particles. So I have been looking at Novus and Micro mesh. Now I have noticed the Novus has a scratch removal liquid. Could I just use this? Or is the full line up better. If it is, then wich is better to use, Novus or Micro Mesh kit with the foam sanding pads? Thanks. Jody

I have done up to three coats in a row! The second coat will "melt" into the first coat. So if you have any small runs or what have you, you can spray another coat almost immediatly and just spray a tad there and a touch more on the rest of the model and it will blend in together. Another one said the magic is in the magician. This is so true. There are many clears. it is a matter of works for you! A big step again is the polishing of the model when all is said and done! You can put on say ten coats of color and polish the heck out of it and not do any clears! The main trick for the clears is to make sure there is no or minimal damage to your color coat when polishing or handling! The reason I like the future is if you do body work, you can clear it and that stops the gohsting effect! If you are spraying multiple coats, you can clear inbetween coats. You can also clear, then do decals and BMF then clear again. You can also clear over your clear plastic pieces and your chrome!That last one is a nice one, that way your chrome does not rub off over the yeaars of handling! Someone had said you can not spray laquar over future. I have not had a issue with this providing I gave the future 48 hours to completly cure before doing my paint over it! So again, it is more the user then the item being used! its all wht you prefer! Again, the main trick is the polishing that helps make it shiny! Now, I have used turtle wasx for that! I am now wanting to get into either micro mesh or novus, wich I will be asking that today! Thanks. Jody

The shackles look like it will give a nice high nose in the air look, but if you are doing a gasser, thats perfect! I think the work you have done looks great! I look forward to seeing more! Jody

http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html I bought mine at Wally World for about $5. Works great. Just make sure you do follow the step regarding covering the model after spraying! It WILL collect dust. LOL. Jody

we just lost my wifes computer to a trojan! I had to format the drive and start it from fresh. Jody

In response to the one who accidently painted the tail light then stripped it. The reasone that was a little foggy in my assumption is that certain paints attack the plastic. If you have stripped a model and noticed a little texture tot he body now, that is why. So if you painted the lense, then stripped it, more then likely it would be foggy. Other wise, I personally have had no ill effects putting clear plastic into the pond. I have also dumped tires into the pond to clean the gunk off of them with no ill effects. I have not let them sit over night yet, only for a hour at a time. Jody

While clear is very important for a good shine, clear will do you no good what so ever if you do not follow simple rules before you ever get there! Primer coat MUST be smoothed out before applyng color. Color MUST be smoothed out before applying clear! it will not matter how many coats of whatever you put on it if your color coat is rough or dimply or hazed!! You will still have a rough cleared surface that will not bring that crisp shine! I have learned, make sure your primer coat is as smooth as possibly can be first! No it wont be perfect, its hard to see what ya got going on in the primer stage. Then apply your color. Making shure your primer has fully gassed out is important! With the color, I have learned to build it up if you can, esp. if its not a pearl or metalic. Because then you can sand and bare polish it. By this I mean, sand it down using fine sandpaper and dry polish I refer to as taking a piece of cotton and rubbing the heck out of it. Just breath on the section, then rub. Breath and rub. Once you have your paint job smoothed and shiny to your liking, then clear it. Do two or three coats depending on what you are using so you have material to polish out! If you are using Future, you must throw a bin or a pot or something over it as soon as you get done spraying it because it is a MAJOR dust collector. I know this! try working dust out of a fresh clear job on gloss black. Yeah right. LOL. Cant get in a hurry if ya want a serios paint job! it takes time. Simple rules are easily followed. They will result in terrific results. Thats why you see so many different ways that look so great like future or urathane, or even just plane clear paint! Every one says that black is the hardest color. Indeed it is because it shows EVERYTHING! But by folowing simple rules it will looks better then any other color! Simple rules again, make sure the primer is smooth! Make sure the color is smooth! Make sure you keep dust out of your clear! Then if you want/need to, polish out. I know with future, it should not need polishing out. If you do, wait a complete day, better yet two before you do and dont use anything thats abrasive! I hope this helps. I know someone did a tutorial on doing a paint process. treehuggerDave, was that you? I know someone has. Jody

I have judged contests. I will put it like this. If your model is so so, we dont need to pick it over. If you are the best hands down, we dont need to pick over it. If there are two or three or more models that are all say museum quality, then how the heck are we supposed to choose? Only by getting down right on the model and checking in it and under it. Suggestion. You dont want a judge to pick it up, bring it with a good mirroed display so the judges dont have to pick it up. Simple! I personally would be upset if someone stole or broke my model yes. But it is also common knowledge when you go that those things may happen and you enter knowing that!! Likewise, if you enter a model without a mirrored display and it is worth having to check out, expect someone to have to pick it up. So another words, y you enter it at your risk, so do what it takes to minimize those risks and help your model get judged better! Jody

For removing, a mild window cleaner or purple power should be fine. I have soaked old dingy tires in the PP overnight before without problems. Or a good soaking in water may help. As for sealing them, I have used automotive paints for panting white walls, so perhaps a clear misted on to give a dull look would wo4rk? I have not used those decals yet, so I dont really know! Of course, I have another 2 sets of those, so I will have too! LOL. I have my Tin Indian to finish and another GTO project and use the body from the parts kit to do a hard body from. Thanks. Jody