monkeyclaw

I do some in 1/16; complete with drum/hub, and lug ring assemblies for that right look....the monogram big scale trucks had these details omitted........matt

Here's the finished green spyder....I will get outdoor GOOD pix soon.....Matt

I am just gonna try to make a "silk purse" from this sow's ear.....should be a nice shelf model when done...........Matt

Eric; you hit the nail right on the head. The paint quality on this car was SOOOO bad, I really didn't have any choice but to strip it down and re-paint.... More than anything; I am just happy to be back at the bench building SOMETHING.................matt

Chuck; I don't think I would be out of line in saying that these "modern" Pocher kits are much different than the "classic" Pocher kits. The Ferrari and Porsche kits are somewhat simplified; certainly beyond DIY diecast; but not the same as the old Bugatti and Rolls kits. There are a bunch of really nice aftermarket transkits and add on widgets for these ferrari kits, which really help bring the models to life. This model will feature the full detail transkit from scaledetails, which contains several hundred detail parts (P/E), brass, white metal, Etc for just the engine! The next one I build is getting an all metal engine upgrade, as well as custom paint. My winter project this year is the Pocher 911 Porsche, which, in actuality will really just be a "DONOR" for the scaleautoworks 993 GT2 "transkit".... if you really want to see what can be done with the modern pochers check out www.scaledetails.com and www.scaleautoworks.com Matt

Gregg; I was kinda staying "under the radar" for a while...been mostly "tinkering", but finally got back in the shop for some SERIOUS projects...like you, I have a bunch stacked up, you know how it is. I intend to have this car done for the NNL in Atlanta this fall; hope you are coming? BTW if you are gonna be out this way, you should stop in here....new backyard with outdoor kitchen....Teri beef and Mac salad anyone???? Just like Byrons.............Matt

Here's My current bench project. It is the pocher Testarossa Spyder kit....I have stripped and re-colored the car; the factory paint was awful! The new color is "synergy green" from the 2010 camaro special edition....The car has not yet been clear coated.... I wanted to do a car you might see cruising in Miami Beach, and it also will feature a bunch of widgets from scale details; as well as wheels and tires from the pocher F40....check it out......Matt

Gregg; Modelhaus has the PERFECT chrome "sombrero" Hubcaps for you custom cad! As always..Nice work...can't wait to see it done........matt

You can use 377 hood hinges to mount that hood....it looks like the hood has underhood detail; so that would be one of my old masters; and I designed the SBFA to fit the italeri 377 hinges.............I hope this helps..........matt

You can get the rivets from Tichy....I use the brass rivets from scale hardware when mastering....you can also get a rivet (dimple) press from micro mark..........matt

Those old ertl kits (even the repops) were/are great kits to build....Back in the day; the ertl branded kits were light years ahead of the amt kits; and were much more enjoyable for me to build...I think the only difference now is that the body work is not molded yellow...the 4300 kit just seems to fall together; you should enjoy it....no real hidden pitfalls I remember.........matt

You can get the T800 bonnet from plaskit....very nice; and you can get the cab/sleeper from PORKY right here on this group........matt

Rick; Alot really depends on the show!Having been a long time "big Scale" builder, I think I have had models in just about every type of show/contest format there is... Some shows don't even include a class for big scale; They just try to fit the models into "open wheel" or "closed" wheel classes that already exist. I do see quite a few more big scale models out at the shows than I did in the past; and I always push for more big scale...I think even Gregg can attest to the fact that I am a die-hard big scale modeler. I think my opinion may upset some topic readers, but I will go on anyway....here goes: being that bi-scale (1/24 1/25) is the predominent modeling scale, I think that most model shows/events ARE setup with classes to best suit those scales....but just accomodate the big scale models for the most part. Some would argue that it is not "fair" to put a big car in the same class as a smaller car; the argument that typically comes up is; A big scale model can have way more detail added than a small car simply due to it's size....and to me that argument doesn't hold water...There are a GOZILLION people out there making aftermarket parts in bi-scale, and any bi-scale modeler can just buy parts to improve their models for show....but very few of us make big scale aftermarket parts...so the onus is on the individual modeler to MAKE almost ALL of their own detail parts and add ons... IMHO this mentality is still pretty pervasive out there; regardless of where you go... I also see the same attidue on the military modeling side of the house; as I build the 1/9 and 1/16 scale military stuff as well...The "military" modelers think that 1/35 IS military modeling scale; and thus don't really pay attention to the big scale models....this mentality is VERY pervasive in the IPMS ... I have seen it 1st hand.... speaking of hands....Big scla e allows me to remain a modeler...now having almost NO use of my hands (3%) I just can't build the smaller stuff at all anymore, so I rely on building the big scale models; and I still go out to shows and contests, and plop my junk on the table, no matter how the models are classed.... I have a "special" project in the works; and plan to use YOUR IFS/IRS and wheels and tires for it; just to prove that big scale is still alive and kicking... Matt

Buc; The original hood that I mastered and cast was 1/25; and it worked with any of the 1/25 square cowl KW cabs (not t600) cab.......matt

Buc; you could use a T600; as the axle is already setback. I used the revell T900 aussie truck; as this was the tractor for a triple tank aussie road train. It is a little more work to do the axle setback; but the revell kits are just WAYYYY better to start off with.................matt

I did one several years ago....I think the "backyard shed" has re-popped it; and if memory serves; I did see it on sourkrauts site....matt

Ah, The Gunze "high tech" kits.... I built a bunch of the motorcycle kits.... I still think gunze should have named that series "high stress" kits! Although they can be wonky to get together; they do build up nice, if you can keep the whole thing from flying against a wall........matt

You can always find ridiculously large rims in the R/c section at your LHS... you can buy just rims and tires that way...no kits....and they can be just as GIANT as the ones in the pix!!! matt

Nice work....can't wait to see it "shiny" matt

Nice to see some one get that old guy back out. The reference for that resin set was 1957 - 1963 W923 model.... For all you "custom" guys out there....THIS is the cab you wanna use for doing custon Kennys....It has the small split screen; and the roof is about 4" shorter than ANY kit cab....Nice work eric..................matt

Ray; the KW small bunk kit will be along next....then I will be doing the same detroit 60 that's in my longhorn truck.........matt

Hey Guys; Hadn't seen this one in a long time! I'll try to answer the questions....1st (status): I "back-burnered" this project; and it sat for a long time; it ended up going to a modeler in NY, who used the chassis to put a PACIFIC Or HAYES resin conversion on...he said it turned out Fantastic, as all the chassis work was already done....as for the wet brakes; I di see some in cab photos of either pacific or hayes trucks; maybe on Hank's. In the photos you could see ordinary plumbing pipe that had been run in the back of the cab, and had valves (just like your garden hose spigot) on all four lines...these looked to be maybe 1" pipe....As I understand: the big tank behind the cab was filled with water...by opening the valves at the drivers left hand; it allowed gravity to let the water run down from the tank, through the valves; and then into reduces lines that ran along the frame; and then turned down and out to point at the brake drums....I hope this info is of soome help.......matt

Hey guys; Just finishing up a couple new detail Items for the Tamiya 1/12 Porsche kits.... I did a new fuel cell with sclae fiberglass; which was the most common cell in these cars, back in the day.... I think it adds a lot of "pop" under the bonnet....also did a replacement seat, which can be used in either car....it has been textured; as well as having fiberglass added to the seat shell for a more realistic appearance...Trying to get them clayed in, so I can use them in all my porsches........... I am also starting (finally) the build up of the old EIDAI 1/8 scale RSR....should be fun...matt

Joe; I use the old Badger frisket all the time....when using lacquers I have founf that the less "tack" you have on the frisket; the better... especially when you start getting into complex multi-layer paint jobs...If you spray TOO wet; the laquer will start to attack the frisket tack; and leave some of the glue behind when you peel the frisket. If you do spray heavy into frisket masks....once dry; use a NEW #11 X-acto blad around the edges as not to "pull UP" any of the paint graphics.....I hope this helps..........matt

Lots of nice work Tim; Those stripes on the Pete are awesome.... Just like the late 70's and early 80's.......super nice....Matt