monkeyclaw

Rom; great score; the autograph kit for that car is incredible as well. The paint looks iffy at best....most of them were that way. I will tell you ,that stripping the metal pocher body is really easy....simply soak it in lacquer thinner and the factory paint will fall right off... I have done a bunch of the testarossa this way...and remember....the paint on the real cars was SO thin; you could actually make out the C/F under it......Can't wait to see this one done..............Matt

There was also a mustang II "Ghia" in 1/16 as well......................Matt

Very Nice work; I like it! This is one of my favorites to build..................Matt

Car show season! I know it well; and it does take away some focus from my modeling efforts. Having TWO cars that are out at regional shows is quite a bit of work...Anyway; I will be attending the LCOC (Lincoln Continental Owners Club) national event in Chattanooga Tn this weekend, at the Choo-Choo hotel complex... 1st time taking my car out to a national event. Anyway; get out to cruise nights and car shows any time you can.............Matt

Good old fashioned BONDO...works well for fill and sculpting Matt

Colin; some of my old items are still be cast by Eric At P&P (porky) he is a member here; try sending him a pm; or try this link: www.ppvintagekits.com/ I hope this helps...............Matt

There was a time when all body seams on cars were done with lead....even at the factory.....customizers really epitomized what you could do with lead in the 1950's....where do you think the term "lead sled" was derived? Lead and tallow work was a learned skill; I grew up doing it; as well as spraying nitro-cellulose laquer from a heated ....yes heated gun....My how times have changed. The advent of plastic and polymer fillers made the jobs easier and faster; which increases production margin; which is what manufacturers are striving for now....even welding is now taking a back seat to "bonded" bodies and parts. todays multi-part paints offer so many more choices; it's hard not to embrace the technology...when you see a car at pebble beach; do you think the restorer painted with period appropriate paint???? Heck no; they are doing the new high tech finish for the superior look and quality...The binks guns have been around for my whole life; and although I own a bunch of the HVLP and gravity feed; the old binks guns always get the job done; and done well at that...matt

Great pix! I love the mitty challenge....no matter what kind of cars you like....they are at the mitty..........Matt

Good work on the 'stang... I would say this kit is well worth the price; I was pretty happy when I cracked mine open....If you are a guy that usually builds the little $10 stuff; don't be afraid to buy this kit....I think Revell have done a great job with the kit. As a big scale builder; it is a bit simplified; but you have what you need to really go for it; like opening the doors; and trunk etc.... I have a plan for mine already; and I have a bunch of new body parts to make before the build; I hope to get this one in the loop later this fall. Look forward to seeing your progress............Matt

Michael; I have been using the metalcotes for years; and I like them.... I have found a couple tricks with these paints to make them look good; and give a pretty realistic metal appearance. 1. They seem to work best on unprimed plastic....I think they just "shell" better that way; as primer is softer under the shell; and when you attempt polishing; the primer actually absorbs the force you need to put down to actually polish the finish. 2. when airbrushing the metalcotes....wetter is better! These are ultra high solids paints; when you spray them really thin or dry; you do not allow enough material to bed; and form the hard shiny shell necessary to get the metal "look" On small parts a wet brush application has always worked best for me. 3. If you are spraying onto a complete body; spray wet, let flash; them spray another wet coat and let dry....about 3 days has been what I found works well. 4. Polishing is the KEY with the humbrol metals....I use polishing product like pearl drops tooth polish; with very little pressure during the rub to bring the metal finish up. I hope these tips help Matt

Nice work ULI! Matt

If you want some good insights about "souped up" diesel trucks; you should check out some info on the pro-pulling truck series.....some of those trucks are running detroit 12's with 2 blowers; and 4 turbos....making about 3800 horsepower to yank the sled...lots of good info I think to help guide your build...........Matt

Thanks to all; great responses...I figured that would be the case...Just wanted to do something I don't normally work on; anyway, thanks for looking.............Matt

Nice crossrams....That was a radical intake in it's day on the 413..........Matt

Paasche VL is my current primary gun; Badger 150, and the 6 airbrush station from Harbor freight (badger knockoffs). All of these work great; But I got to demo the GREX Tritium TG3 at the IPMS show in Anniston last week; and I was Blown away! Top triggers have become difficult to use due to the lack of movement in my hands....the Grex is a pistol grip, with front trigger, and quite honestly: I don't think I have ever had an airbrush in hand that was this intuitive....from the finest thin shadow line; to a full coverage pattern without changing a thing....not cheap; but already have one on the way; as I think it will revolutionize my ability to do the work...............Matt

Ben; Super work as always! Now get to work on some in 1/16 (so I don't have to) ................Matt

Just don't think of it as a "wagon"..... Think of it as a "shooting brake"....that always worked for Rolls and Bentley.......................Matt

Finished this one recently; I figured (no pun) this would be the best place to post it....Started with the big deuce pontiac engine and a 1/8 scale anime figure....lots of re-sculpting on the figure...Anyway; my 1st foray into large female figures........Matt

That car is most definitely an answer to a question NO-ONE was asking! I have seen the car; fantastic craftsmanship..but WHY??? Those imperial coupe are some of my favorite big fin era cars............Matt

Just saw this re-issue at the Anniston show last weekend....I built this one in "History makers" series...way back! I agree...lots of cool features; and even in 1/32 the vehicle is pretty large....good kit...............Matt

That is a re-issue of the old cattleman kit.....................Matt

Nice to see you show up here.....Nice trucks....now I see where all those parts are going!!! Matt

Um; NO! Try using an actual release....alumilites' rubber to rubber is a great choice for seperation during the making of 2 piece molds....alumilite also sells a GREAT spray can of UMR (universal mold release) Which does NOT affect the post casting paint process.....I use it all the time.....putting (vaseline) in your molds is just BAD advice.........Period...if it doesn't destroy your molds....you will NEVER get it off your parts..........My 2 cents....and I cast parts.......Matt

Wish i could make it out for the show....already have a prior commitment.......next year??? Matt

very nice............matt