monkeyclaw

Chuck; I have seen those kits boxed that way as well; I would guess maybe SSP release; or intended for scale train market...that's where i saw those boxes; at a train shop..............Matt

For what it's worth....All the constant ranting and crying about the lonestar has turned it into the Kim kardashian of model trucks for me......I never want to hear about it, or ever see it again....just have it go away.....Period! I'll never build one anyway.....I think the truck is hideous....like someone drove a 9900i up the fartpipe of a PT cruiser......which equals UGLY. I DO commend Moebius for tackling a current truck subject; and certainly hope they do more of them, as we need more new subjects all the time. Any of you guys that have been doing this for years should remember the AWFUL plastic from AMT for how many years??? That T600 kit was at best a parts donor.....and what about the mack "junkyard" dog....with a wrinkled up hood (which was fiberglass in 1:1) and wouldn't be wrinkled.....REALLY....I don't mean to hate at all....but with all the effort that has gone into these Lonestar threads....Every kit moebius popped out could have been built collectively...it's pretty simple really....there's this new thing called google images; you can solve many of your fitment questions by simply looking at images of real trucks, and figure it out....for about the same effort as getting on a forum and going crazy over it...bottom line.....just build something....Matt

I think you will get a much better "look" by altering the ride height of the suspension. By simply going to smaller wheels and tires you will lower the truck; but you will also fail to fill the wheel openings in the front fenders, unless you do filler panels to the sides of the front fenders to make up the difference. You can readily lose about 6 scale inches by shaving the kit parts (springs, mounts, axles) to get a lower stance on the truck. A simple front end solution is to mount the front drop axle above the springs....this is an old school lowering trick that's easy to do. I am working on a custom right now; which has all new suspension; which results in 12" of drop to the truck.... I would post pix; but haven't taken any of this truck yet; when I do, they will be up on my siye.........matt

One of my Favorites....especially the "stradale" version...............Matt

My wife once told me if I kept spending so much on models she was going to leave me; I told her she would be missed.........27 years later she's still here, and I couldn't possibly spend anymore on models.........(LOL) matt

Nice to see the progress on this truck. Great work on the engine as well. I will be watching this one as it comes along.... great work............Matt

Looks great! Like the work on the cummins as well.....I know how much work this project is; I have one at about the same place; only I am doing a flat top; my truck is going to be a full custom; so I plan on doing a detroit 12 to go in it; along with an Alison auto trans...Again; great work scaling up..........Matt

All of the aforementioned products are great, and I have to say I use baking soda most of the time. You can get different effects by using different materials; depending on the type of rusty look you are going for. Even things like PANKO work well to make large flakey chunks of rust....small model railroad dirts can also get the job done for larger chunks. Like others have said; you just have to try different methods; and see which looks right for your application.........matt

I always recommend the "prime first" before puttying on any surface; especially when using lacquer based putties....these putties are designed to "etch", and to do so require a base to etch into....that's why they will melt the plastic when you use them on styrene... Plastic fillers like bondo are also designed to etch; and are more like to lift or peel up if applied directly to plastic or resin...Hey, sometimes you just get luckyand it all works, regardless of prep. As far as clean up of resin parts; I only recommend a commercial greade dewax & prep solvent (like PREPSOL); and have never subscribed to the Bleche white theory myself...Immersion prior to painting can leave moisture in the substrate of the resin part; as it is porous (small as it may be)... the trapped moisture has a way of finding it's way out when you apply the paint (especially HOT paint) .Once the chemical reaction that cures the paint starts to take place, there is no stopping it; you WILL end up with fisheyes, or other malodies. I have been doing it for a long time; and try to follow the steps on each and every paint job....this for me is one area where you just can't take shortcuts; as the paint quality is the 1st thing people notice about a model; and it often sets the "tone" for how the rest of the build goes... Jus' sayin' Matt

Pinholes and voids are easiest filled using ZAP & baking soda....cheap and fast! Scratches should probably be done with putty;...automotive glazing or "spot" putty works well....these are usually Lacquer based....so prime FIRST!!!! Every model you ask will have their own brand of putty they use; but they all pretty much work the same way....5 min epoxy is not a good choice....it dries VERY hard; and is difficult to get back down to level with sorrounding areas.....you could also try using a Filler primer; which has a high solid content; these primers a re best for building a good surface from scratches or eggshell surface....I hope this helps..........Matt

More great stuff from Tony's bench! Matt

I've sprayed it a bunch; and it works just fine from both HVLP and airbrush....right from the can. The color choices are limited; but they are mostly stock (standard) colors you can use all the time; so it's worth the pop if you paint from a gun all of the time. For the guys that build 1/25 all the time it might seem like a lifetime supply of color; but when you build big stuff all the time, it does go pretty quickly...........Matt

I think each and every person will give you their own favorite....so be prepared....my advice; try a few different brands to see which works best for you. I have tried them all over the years; and for me what works is the "firm" rtv from www.hobbysilicone.com . Mike Knott has taken pretty good care of my needs for a long time; and his product has worked well for me. As for resin; I only use Alumilite white resin; I like the timing; and the service I get from alumilite. Carol Warner has been helping me for years; and always gets my stuff shipped when I need it. I know I haven't talked alot about the actual products; but the people that get me those products have by far been the best part of the product experience for me...........Matt

you can apply that aircraft modelers strategy very easily .....just build Nascars............Matt

$60 I believe.............Matt

Nice!!! Now just "zap" with the re-scale ray gun to 1/16 scale....that way I can use it in my K-100.................Matt

I think you are gonna have to make what you need....Not much in the way of conversions for the 1/6 bikes at all....trying to make a difference though.........Matt

Wheelman; I feel ya there...that's what kept me from the XLR....It amazes me how much the caddy cars lose in the 1st two years! But the only way to get the CTS-V wagon they way you REALLY want it is to order it new; kinda sucks....but it will most likely be the last car I buy...and there just hasn't been any other new car that I would buy......Matt

I use Naison urethane clear...this is a great quality alternative to the more expensive PPg products...Matt

Along with wheelman; my next car is probably be the CTS-V sportwagon................Matt

I kinda have to agree with Harry...my wife's car is an 11 Sonata; It has every widget one could imagine, and you get used to that stuff. When I get my old lincoln out of the Garage for a car show; I look to the features I am used to....I find myself staring at the dash, waiting for the backup cam to come on! We just get so used to the tech in today's cars....My old Lincoln doesn't even have a single cup holder.....anywhere....it does however have an ashtray; something that's gone the way of the Dodo bird in most new cars. Matt

I don't have any shortage of the engines...that's for sure! I really don't even use the 3408's at all anymore...just email me; i thik I can probably scare up a complete one if you need it......... Matt

I saw the prototype of this model at the NNL south; must say Revell have done a great job with this kit. Even though I don't really build down scale anymore; I'm still gonna have to get a couple of these! It's just TOO funky not to build..............and your doing great work on it....Matt

Tony; I know what you mean....The metal glow kits used the most brittle plastic ever it seems! This kit will more than likely be the "donor" for my S.A.R. project....I still have one other unbuilt i the box; and yet another that is the basis for my K-100 Cabover.....I really didn't NEED this model; but just seeing one for $99 compelled me to bid on it.....I'm sure you know how that is................Matt

I'm kinda stoked....found a 1/16 Kenworth kit on ebay, the kit was mis-listed in models>auto>sports>other.....NOT auto>truck! Anyway, with 19 minutes left on the auction; I bid the $99....and surprise; I won....nice O/C kit, great decals; and sealed parts...not one of the usual glue bombs for that money.....AWESOME....Merry Christmas to Matt. The 1/16 pete is listed on tower hobbies as SSP for $71.99....you can also find it at Mega-hobby for $63.99. I will most likely order from tower; as I usually get free shipping and great e-coupon deals from them; which really knocks down the per kit price when you order 10 or so at a time....No word on KW re-issue though....(bummer) I thought they would do both at the same time; but why look the proverbial gift horse in the mouth? I guess I will just stock up on the pete's for now; and hold out hope for the kw being re-popped soon............matt P.S. If you look fo rthe pete @ towerhobbies; it's listed right in the monogram cars....not with big scale stuff; the kit # is 85-2500 i think.