Lunajammer

No all parts boxes hold plastic. This is part of where the rest of the lamp will come from. This is a motor from a toy... Broken down, painted, weathered and rebuilt to look like old clockworks...

I didn't model much this winter because this "art" project consumed all my interest. I've been chomping for a chance to build the right Steampunk project or "found object" art that could be both form and function and a lamp seemed to be the easiest way to accomplish both. It was a long project and there was a lot of building and un-building along the way until I got what felt right. I did have to use my modeling tools and knowledge along the way. This is a sketch I made about halfway through, illustrating what I was going for. The base of the lamp is a box I built and stained, taking full advantage of hammers, chains and rocks to mar the wood for an aged look. This is the blister package from my car's headlight that I primed red, used the salt technique, sprayed, then weathered with Vallejo acrylics. I kind did a hack job of adding bronze tacks, I'm afraid. Plumbed with copper pipe. I still have my dad's old household plumbing junk and found this rusty faucet, so I made it my lamp's rotary light switch... The faucet handle was in a junk box in my basement, left by my home's previous owner... Copper plumbing, faucet switch and the black box will hold a clock... vacuum guages are common on steampunk projects but I think they're cliche and not functional like a good old clock. I'm using this blackening agent to weather most of my metal parts, shown here with some electrical panel plate or something. These are PVC parts that I'm metallizing. I chose these over metal parts to keep costs and weight down. The cap on my spray can was a lovely brass, which is what I wanted, but when it came out it was a lovely copper. Meh, I'll take it.

I don't begrudge the person for building how he likes and offering them for what he wants. What breaks my heart seeing what happens to collectible Johan kits and vintage promos.

Isn't Mark asking for Nissan right hand drive firewall reference photos?

Neat featurette. Kind of ignored the elephant in the room, which was "how does it work?" I'm no mechanic, but I'd still like to have seen a couple shots of what makes it tick to support his raves about how special it was.

My thinking was to have trim that ran from the top points, over the side and down the door, similar to a 56 Ford. But that rounded rear fender really conflicts with almost anything you want to do with added shapes. If you search, even 1:1 customizers seldom embellish extra lines. Thanks for all the comments folks.

Side reshaped.... Sorry guys! I committed to the hideous headlight buckets. Per recent suggestions I might still knock down some of the pointiness. No pics yet, but I've finessed the rear window and added window trim. New side trim is almost done. Getting ready for primer.

Thanks Dennis, I did slide the grill opening up and cut away plastic from under the headlights to make room. So far it doesn't bother me. Thanks for your insights. All comments, critiques and observations are welcome. In my business (advertising) personal opinions and shared knowledge is considered teamwork.

Tentatively, yes. Another long drive from Fargo.

X2

Thanks for the input Gerald. I hadn't heard the term "agro" before, but I think I know what you mean. I had to decide early on what era this car should be, then stay true to it. Since I'm using the kit's straight 235 and a classic custom grill, I figure I should stay consistent with an old school custom. It would be SO easy to slide into a modern build and it would look killer, so I need to exercise restraint and stay consistent. I'll revisit ride height when I choose wheels.

This glue bomb grill piece cleaned up pretty well, so I'm going with it. First time on its axles and everything seems to fit good. I don't plan to use these wheels though.

A little more front end trimming got this parts box piece to fit pretty well. The first set up on wheels. Thankfully, no fit problems at this point, no major headaches. Just need to work the edges to get the hood to sit down.

Nice work Pat, really coming together into something unique.

Probably smart. I'm still not committed to my plan for the front.

Those are all valid points and I appreciate them. Per above, the trunk lid will be re-scored along the mold separation line which will not only clear the bumpers but lighten the lid. The rear window has already been rounded some, the pic was taken while glue was setting. @you and Mike 51, I'd seen what you see and sent the parts back to the box, but I wanted something dramatic for the otherwise flat headlights but didn't want to just french them. I've gone back to the hideous pointy buckets. I think I can work out something acceptable. All you guys, thanks for the honest comments and insights. Keep it up.

In that case, they're locked in.

Like a Grateful Dead concert, bootleggers welcome.

Oh, I forgot... I want to try something like this...

Changing up the C-pillar to take out the forward jag that's always bugged me. I've also rebuilt the rear bumper from an upside down Corvette piece. It not only adds a little more interest but reduces the visual weight of the stock slab bumper.

I've never cared for the notchback c-pillar in the mid 50's so I'm changing that. I'm not specifically trying to make it a Chevy 210, but it can't help remind you of one. To lighten the front and rear ends, I've cut up a Corvette bumper, flipped it over and widened it at the middle. Gives it a little more grace than the stock slab bumpers. The front may have separate, unjoined, similar pieces, I'm still fiddling with those. The trunk will be re-scored pretty much where you can almost see the mold seam line.

That's a nice look and good work. Pleasantly unique.

Most certainly. NNL North is in a few weeks, I'm starting there. If no joy, then I'll go begging.

I was considering the lateral section AND shortening the trunk, I think it would look more proportional, but I also know that's about the tipping point of how much I want to do here and I'd end up losing interest and... and... zzzzzzzz.

This is my entry into the Cannonball CBP down below, but as a matter of a searchable record I want this presented here in a separate, comprehensive thread. Like many Monogram models of that era ('69 Camaro, '57 Nomad), the 53 is so disproportionate it welcomes body mods. The trunk is too long and I considered sectioning that but, nah. A scale 6-inches ready to be cut laterally throughout the car, which includes the interior bucket and engine compartment. Quarter inch tape demarcates well. Just enough room in the back to get away with it. I wanted to do this on a relatively low parts count kit. Fewer parts to cut and fewer headaches over fiddly stuff. The rounded rear fender will be the achilles heal. I'm also not going to try and preserve any side trim. There are one or two places that make sectioning intuitive, like in the interior bucket. The cut will be easy to hide. The deep draw of the lower engine bay also is forgiving of taking out a quarter inch.